Sorry for the delay, thought my best friend would be giving birth to her daughter tonight, but it turned out to be a false alarm... Here are the pics though. Tried to be as thorough as I could. I linked them, instead of thumbnailing, since there were so many. Figured I'd keep it 56K-friendly...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00108.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00112.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00115.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00119.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00121.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00122.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00123.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00129.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/IMG00130.jpg

 

Thats exactly what I needed! Now to go see if it will fit on my G.

Thanks
Dave

 

No problem, glad I could help.

 

Nice... I'm thinking of doing this as well. Is the plenum bracket a WR fabrication, or did you weld it up yourself?

 

It's a WR fab. I'm not talented enough to weld up my own...

 

I have a few questions about the dampener. Will an plenum spacer affect anything? My strut bar is on a few washer-spacers because of the plenum spacer, so will that affect the connection of the dampener to the bolt that appears to be on the strut bar?

Also, in picture number 7 from the top (image #00123)... The black metal strip that is in this picture, is that an oem part, or is that something you added with the dampener? I haven't really taken off my engine cover lately and i don't remember seeing that piece... Thanks in advance

 

I think a plenum spacer would not affect this install, because the strut brace is also raised the same amount as the plenum spacer... At least that's how it is on mine. The engine dampener attaches from the strut brace mounting point to the plenum.

I was just worried this install might interfere with my catch-can, but I think I can make it work.

 

The weapon r damper attaches to the plenum, the stillen attaches to the engine itself.

 

unless you literally SEE the motor torque itself significantly, there is no need for an engine dampener.... and if it does torque a good deal get some poly mounts.
waste of money IMO. i can put better use to the $50-150 for a torque dampener, like gas and insurance combined!

 

Not trying to start an argument or anything, but the difference the damper makes, at least for me, is night and day. Try shifting, at WOT without one and then try shifting at WOT with one while on stock mounts. You'll notice that without it, shifting is not very smooth. Sometimes gets clunky, sometimes can't get into gear at all, or it grinds in. Motor mounts essentially do the same thing, but I chose the damper because it's easier to setup.

 

I have the engine damper installed.. my friend and i did a visual test to see if it makes a difference between our engine movements... under regular throttle mine seemed to move a little less.. but under heavy/full throttle, it made no difference... i bought mine off of ebay $75.00 shipped, install was very easy...

 

Ok, here's the deal with engine dampers, and why they are DIFFERENT than just using solid engine mounts.

1. An engine damper is a small piston, and as such, is designed to absorb vibration, just like the shocks on your car. It has a "damping factor".

2. It is not designed to keep the engine from moving at all, rather it is designed to reduce and absorb the vibrations. Every engine vibrates, some more than others. Our VQ35's are pretty well balanced, and don't vibrate all that much. However, they are not perfect (nor is any other engine), and vibrate some. An engine damper, if well designed, well and solidly mounted, and made with the right damping factor will absorb some of those vibrations.

So, while they don't help our engine a lot, they do have some effect, if done right.

Make sense?

 

No, I'm confused... ... j/k. Good explanation.

 

Cool. I actually just got my weapon R in the mail last night - will put it in today

dmroberson: how exactly did you "modify" your engine cover? what do you need to do to make it sit flat?

and thanks for the pix - they are SO much better than weapon r's instructions

 

The spot I circled... On the underside of the cover, comes down and creates a point. You'll see it when you take your cover off. Basically, just cut off the point, and you're good to go. I just used an X-acto knife.

 

sweet thanks! I'm gonna go install it now. I wasn't sure if there was a special tool I needed...like a dremel or something I wouldn't normally have.

so u say its set at 10mm...how is this measured? Is it the distance from the right side of the tube that says WR to the left side of the part that screws in to the engine mount? i.e. is 10mm = the distance of the skinniest part right in the middle?

or does 10mm have something to do with the stuff you need a wrench to adjust to the very left of the big W on the sticker?

 

Zazoozle, let us know if it makes any difference.

 

A dremmel would have made it easier, but an X-acto or a really sharp knife will do it.

It's the distance between the 2 lines I drew. From the bottom of the locknut (the painted one, with all the teeth marks, from my vice), to the bottom of the silver nut.

 

the motor DOES torque itself significantly... have a friend rev the engine while you watch.

 

^^+1, before the stillen damper was installed, wot was not that smooth, and post-install it is much smoother. Well worth it imo.

But why did most of you guys choose the weapon r one? Since, the Stillen actually connects directly to the engine (unlike the weapon which only attaches to the upper plenum), I am almost positive that the Stillen would perform better and be less prone to snap. However, you can't really see the Stillen like you can w/ the weapon r, but the stillen looks to be a much better designed engine damper. My .02