deisel

I would like to hear some opinions on what company has the best stroker kit on the market. why is there product is superior than their competitors. I plan on doing this set up pretty soon. I would like for people that have tried these kits to comment good or bad. Thanks for your knowledge peeps!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

none have been out long enough for anyone to really answer your question. More important than researching the best stroker is researching the best machinist to make it all work and actually make the car make power

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Didn't you have your SC setup done with GTM? If so chat with them...

Chris

Zilvia

iTrader: (1)

GTM FTW

i think BC also has a kit out

Clint@Altered

iTrader: (5)

We've done a few Brian Crower 4.2L Strokers (PE Crank) (We're doing one right now on an Altima). They make A LOT of power at even low boost settings. With an APS Extreme Twin Kit, one of our customers cars made high sixes whp at 1 bar. We've also done 3.8L non-stroked 100mm VQ motors. Since we machine everything in-house, we've learned quite a lot about machining/clearancing the VQ for a precise Stoker build-up. So +1 on what Z1 said, quality machining makes a big difference. If you have any questions about the specifics of building a stoker, feel free to shoot me a pm or an email.

Zilvia

iTrader: (1)

aslo can never go wrong with Nismo

deisel

so why do most people use the same formula. I want a diffrent set up then most other z owners

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

what is your reason for wanting a stroker? IMHO, it isn't worth the extra money. You can make plenty of power with proven setups.

deisel

why not try something new Im going to spend $$ either way because I shot a rod out of the block. I just want a fast sc t trim car with plenty of b@%%s. I just like to be diffrent out of the box fresh. . I just wanna know who is the best engine builder for the vqs.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I stroker is considerably more than a standard build and I don't think it is money well spent. If you are running a SC setup, go with a stock build and prep the heads and such for high revs. A stroker is not really optimal for high revs as the rotating mass increases

I have my opinions on who puts out the best builds. I would care not to share them openly though -

deisel

By the way gtm only tuned my car and did fuel everything u see on pics done by me except cold air tube w/filter. now i i got a blown engine and need to figure out who is at fault. I only had car trouble after 2nd time in for the street tune by gtm. I go to track and engine goes 10min into my 2nd run at willow springs. who to blame? whats to look for? why no problem after 1st tune?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

Stock block?
there are a MILLION potential reasons the motor let go. need to rip it apart. check the plugs, check the pistons for detonation, look at the bearings. again, a million reasons it let go.

Someguy350

iTrader: (3)

people use the same formula on the Z, just as they do with any other platform. because many people have already spent money trying different things. now they know what works. so why stray away from what works??

booger

iTrader: (6)

So GTM tuned your car and it blew . What power level did they tune it to ? And what power level was the first tune and who did the 1st ?

Zilvia

iTrader: (1)

if u wanna be diff then be JDM

no one state side has Nismo 3.8RS engine.....lol

or just get the Brain Cower kit.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

I'd go with the newer rev2 GTM stroker kit that has oil squirters while the other brands out there don't to my knowledge.

For me the big question is would you want the 3.8 non sleeved, or 4.2 sleeved (with the 4.2 making the HKS radiator fans an absolute must if you plan to track the car - IMO)


high revs and vortech don't get along very well with belt slip

a stroker kit would reduce the psi while increasing power and would make it easier to make more power especially with a T-trim because belt slippage would be reduced a little because of the lower psi. It wouldn't have as hard of a time cramming the air into the engine

I could be wrong, but I'd think keeping the redline around 6600-7000 rpms would probably work out better than trying to rev to 8000 or more rpms with a non-stroked setup with a vortech. Besides, you can only push the blower so far so you have two choices: aggressive blower pulley and rev to 6600-7000 rpms, or mild pulley and rev to 8000 rpms. They'd respond totally different -like comparing a viper engine to a ferrari engine. The lower redline/smaller pulley setup IMO would be more fun on the street with more low end tq.


not everyone wants a turbo or wants to ditch their current FI kit
it's called choice. The Z06 is fast, so why do ferrari, lambo, and porsche even bother trying to be fast too?

It might also be that deisel lives in CA and he at least might be able to get away with keeping the vortech on his car even though he's already changed the kit and fuel system beyond what the stock kit is

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

deisel,
you never told any of us what octane gas you used on the track or which of your two tunes you used?

For me, I have two tunes just like you too - a 91 and 96 octane map. But for a road course, I'd use my 91 octane map and run 101 octane gas. IMO you always want to run higher octane gas than what your tune is for when you're pushing the car on a roadcourse track because you just can't simulate the conditions of tracking the car when tuning on a dyno or out on the street. Everything heats up a lot more

I'd only use my 96 octane map on the street or drag strip (though I use straight 101 octane gas for it in the summer). IMO I'd only trust that extra timing and slightly leaner tune for shorter bursts of hard driving, not full 20-30 min sessions on a road course.
If I were to use my 96 octane map on a road course, I'd use nothing short of straight up 109 octane fuel

If you didn't blow up on the dyno or on the street, my guess would be that heat might have played a role in things on the track and you eventually must have detonated - just my guess anyway. After it happened, do you remember what your gauges said? For instance were your air intake temps above 75 degrees C? If I remember, you were not using water injection right?

Do you have a larger radiator or your headers heat wrapped or jet hot coated?
Do you have EGT compensation set up with the Fcon and EGT sensor? What about the Fcon Knock amp?

for reference for other's, here's the thread GTM started about your car after they tuned it:
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds/292534-gt-motorsports-vortech-t-trim-fcon-vpro-cjm-fuel-system-454rwhp-stock-block-pix.html

Someguy350

iTrader: (3)

i think you read what i was saying out of context. he was talking about being different by doing some oddball stroker set up. and somebody said why does everyone do the same set-ups.

i was simply stating that the Z. just like any other platform that people mod. once enough people have modded the engine on a certain vehicle. they figure out what set up works best. so everyone usually sticks with that set up. since it is proven. why spend more money on a different set up, that might not work?? when you already know what is proven.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

IMO everyone hasn't found the ideal setup yet because there's always new things coming out all the time. The stroker kits have only really started hitting the streets like 8 months ago and only a relative handful of people are using them yet. We're still in the beginning phases.

IMO I don't think a cookie cutter "best" setup exists for all people and I think knowledge gained from one setup can be used for other setups

And some people have subjective preferences - they might like the sound of one setup vs another. Or they might like the cost of one vs another.




stroker kits are not all that much more expensive. If I remember GTM's pricing right, the sleeved 4.2 liter short block sells for $9k and their 3.8 short block sells for $6600 - which is around $2000 more than a normal 3.5 built short block and comes with a brand new lighter weight, superior crankshaft vs a used one from someone else's core returned engine

booger

iTrader: (6)

Oh ..Now I remember ...thanks to Sentry's 12 inch post refering back to an old thread . Bummer your motor blew...IT SUCKS ! I would shop around for the build.....Im sure most shops on this forum can do just as good as job as the other.....cost will be the biggest difference from shop to shop .