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Spark Plugs! :-(

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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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Default Spark Plugs! :-(

hey just wondering if there is a DIY for changing them or is it just easy to do yourself...i don't know where they are located and looking to get some quick help

i have looked on the search and have had no luck


thxxxx
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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if you do not know where they are located it would be better for you to pay someone to do it for you. IMO
Originally Posted by mondi
hey just wondering if there is a DIY for changing them or is it just easy to do yourself...i don't know where they are located and looking to get some quick help

i have looked on the search and have had no luck


thxxxx
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by USN HM 350Z
if you do not know where they are located it would be better for you to pay someone to do it for you. IMO
Agreed!
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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there are hiding under the coils.

You don't need to remove the intake manifold plenum, but it makes the job alot easier. Once the plenum is out of the way, you have a clear shot at all six coils. you need to remove the coils and move the wiring harness. all of these are held in place by small bolts (with a 10mm head). after that, you can use a spark plug socket with an extension and a 3/8" ratchet to remove the plugs.

when you put them back in, make sure not to cross thread the plugs!!!

Torque specs:

PLUGS - 15-21 ft-lbs
COILS - 64-95 in-lbs (note: that says inch pounds!!!)
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
there are hiding under the coils.

You don't need to remove the intake manifold plenum, but it makes the job alot easier. Once the plenum is out of the way, you have a clear shot at all six coils. you need to remove the coils and move the wiring harness. all of these are held in place by small bolts (with a 10mm head). after that, you can use a spark plug socket with an extension and a 3/8" ratchet to remove the plugs.

when you put them back in, make sure not to cross thread the plugs!!!

Torque specs:

PLUGS - 15-21 ft-lbs
COILS - 64-95 in-lbs (note: that says inch pounds!!!)
Now that didn't hurt to help right Thanks for helping the community

Chris
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:51 AM
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Indexing the plugs couldn't hurt either... Gap facing the intake valves. Although I haven't indexed mine yet.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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You will need really small hands to get them down there where the coils are. I scratched up my knuckles pretty good doign it.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:20 AM
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it took me about an hour the first time and 45 min the second time...helps to have the proper tools
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
there are hiding under the coils.

You don't need to remove the intake manifold plenum, but it makes the job alot easier. Once the plenum is out of the way, you have a clear shot at all six coils. you need to remove the coils and move the wiring harness. all of these are held in place by small bolts (with a 10mm head). after that, you can use a spark plug socket with an extension and a 3/8" ratchet to remove the plugs.

when you put them back in, make sure not to cross thread the plugs!!!

Torque specs:

PLUGS - 15-21 ft-lbs
COILS - 64-95 in-lbs (note: that says inch pounds!!!)
^^^^^^^^^^^^ Also be careful not to drop the coils. INCH POUNDS
INCH POUNDS INCH POUNDS INCH POUNDS.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by gothchick
Indexing the plugs couldn't hurt either... Gap facing the intake valves. Although I haven't indexed mine yet.

why would you index them
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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Supposedly it helps a more complete & uniform burn in the combustion chamber. A few more HP and MPG...
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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I am going to try and change the plugs in this car tonight. Ive changed my plugs in all my cars, but Ive never had so much trouble just finding the basterds on this one lol. Its usually so obvious being connected to the plainly viewed destributor cap. Honestly, you need a flashlight to see ANYTHING in our engine bay (unless you remove things). I thought I would look for a write up in here before I attempted, this is as close as it gets. Should be easy, but I'll admit, never been nervous to change plugs before lol.

How does one "index" the spark plugs?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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This guy can explain it better than me~

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/07/indexplugs/

Last edited by gothchick; Oct 24, 2007 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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I really wonder if indexing will make any difference in our motors, since the plug is right between all 4 valves. You usually get the most gain when working with heads that have the plugs mounted near the edge, not the center...
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 06blueZ
I really wonder if indexing will make any difference in our motors, since the plug is right between all 4 valves. You usually get the most gain when working with heads that have the plugs mounted near the edge, not the center...

good point.

Also, in that article, he said (and it makes sense) that you only do this with conventional (usually copper) plugs that have the grounding strap that comes off the threaded part. A lot of plugs (platnum, irridium etc) dont have that and are "self indexing". He contradicts himself. He says, yes, its worth indexing to get minimal gains. Then he says the "self indexing" plugs are horribly overpriced, and why spend the extra money on something that isnt proven to work (indexing in general is not proven, they guess it can add 1-2% more efficiancy according to this article). Wait, didnt he just say it was worth it to be indexed, racers win races because of these details blah blah? Lastly, he said he has to buy 2 or 3 sets of plugs (with the grounding strap) and doesnt use the ones that dont index correctly, he just puts those to the side, and uses a different new one, hopeing the threading is correct. So IMO its a wash economicly this indexing regular plugs vs "self indexing".

Last edited by WhiteNoiz; Oct 24, 2007 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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another question, why would have them face the intake valves
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