Issues after Camshaft install.
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Issues after Camshaft install.
Hello all,
Alright so over the past week I installed a set of nismo cams and nismo headers. Upon first turn of the key the engine came to life. I let it ilde for a bit. Reved it up and such. No check engine light or anything. I shortly noticed that I was getting no heat from the heater. Upper rad hose is hot hot hot. Lower hose is ice cold. It is pretty obvious that there is a bubble in the system somewhere. Has anyone encounted issues with burping the system? I know to use the bleeder on the heater hose. Now with all this I just noticed that the check engine light is on. This is after about 30 mins. Would anything with the cooling system trigger the Check engine light? The car is currently in the garage now on jack stands Would it be easier to bleed the system with it sitting flat on the floor? As for taking it to get the codes checked id rather not drive it with it over heating. Plus it is snowing. I have done a ton of research so its most likely throwing the engine miss fire code since the idle is lower than normal. The car is an early early 03. Man what a let down, I thought I was good to go once the car started and ran nice and smoothly. Any and all help would be wonderful. If you need some further more detailed info please ask and I will provide it. Kinda desperate to get the car back to being driveable. Almost forgot the car only has 19,600 miles on it.
Thank you!
Alright so over the past week I installed a set of nismo cams and nismo headers. Upon first turn of the key the engine came to life. I let it ilde for a bit. Reved it up and such. No check engine light or anything. I shortly noticed that I was getting no heat from the heater. Upper rad hose is hot hot hot. Lower hose is ice cold. It is pretty obvious that there is a bubble in the system somewhere. Has anyone encounted issues with burping the system? I know to use the bleeder on the heater hose. Now with all this I just noticed that the check engine light is on. This is after about 30 mins. Would anything with the cooling system trigger the Check engine light? The car is currently in the garage now on jack stands Would it be easier to bleed the system with it sitting flat on the floor? As for taking it to get the codes checked id rather not drive it with it over heating. Plus it is snowing. I have done a ton of research so its most likely throwing the engine miss fire code since the idle is lower than normal. The car is an early early 03. Man what a let down, I thought I was good to go once the car started and ran nice and smoothly. Any and all help would be wonderful. If you need some further more detailed info please ask and I will provide it. Kinda desperate to get the car back to being driveable. Almost forgot the car only has 19,600 miles on it.
Thank you!
Last edited by G87z; 12-05-2007 at 02:20 PM.
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Yeah, bleeding it through the heater bleeder vent next to the firewall worked for me. Level ground is fine.
For your scanning needs; I bought one of these at Advanced Auto for $40 dollars. It scans for active & pending codes, erases codes, and resets the CEL. It's been an inexpensive worthwhile investment.
For your scanning needs; I bought one of these at Advanced Auto for $40 dollars. It scans for active & pending codes, erases codes, and resets the CEL. It's been an inexpensive worthwhile investment.
Last edited by gothchick; 12-05-2007 at 05:24 PM.
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My car was up on jackstands at the time. I actually poured water into the bleeder vent until it was full. The secret is to pour slowly so the air can gurgle and bubble out. Then I made sure the radiator was topped off. Started the car, let it idle. Revved it up a few times. Let it cycle completely through one fan cycle just to make sure. Shut it off. Checked everything again.
Then I drove it normal, checking the res every so often. I had to top the res off a few more times over the next few days as the last reminents of air made it's way to the res.
A good way to tell is to run your heater. It should warm up pretty good if most/all the air is out. Also, the factory temp gauge only polls the sending unit once every 60 seconds...
Edit: I'm running about a 60/40 mix of distilled h20/antifreeze.
Then I drove it normal, checking the res every so often. I had to top the res off a few more times over the next few days as the last reminents of air made it's way to the res.
A good way to tell is to run your heater. It should warm up pretty good if most/all the air is out. Also, the factory temp gauge only polls the sending unit once every 60 seconds...
Edit: I'm running about a 60/40 mix of distilled h20/antifreeze.
Last edited by gothchick; 12-05-2007 at 05:41 PM.
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I just had this same problem with a pulley install... i think i still have to burp out my radiator some more because the heat isn't cookin like it used to... it used to be able to make you sweat in the cold of winter.
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Hey guys! I lowered the car off the jack stands and bang the bubble problem is gone. I now have some nice warm heat. The car sounds wonderful. My only issue left is that if A: it is throwing a code which I am going to get checked right now. B: If you rev it up under no load and the let off the throttle it will drop down low and stall out. Is this due to a low idle or is something else wrong? I see JWT has some sort of fix for this? Or will bumping the idle up to about 850 make that go away?
Thank you!
Thank you!
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yah on the 03/04 with a reflash or the use of cipher. I think even the dealer can up the idle using consult-II. Anyone else know if the dealer can do it?
Last edited by G87z; 12-06-2007 at 09:36 AM.
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Originally Posted by Ztrackman
Dealer can bump the idle with the Consult if it's an '03. It is a must or the car will not idle well with the Nismo cams.
Hey thanks Ztrackman, That is exactly what I was looking for before I went to the dealer tomorrow and they looked at me stupid. I have an early 03. its an 02 build date so I should be good on the idle bump. I used the scanner on it today because it was throwing the check engine light. Of course it was the p0300 random missfire code.
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
$40 for that scanner? I paid about $70 for it. is that the little Actron?
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Originally Posted by 68Stang
TTIWOSC
(This thread is worthelss without sound clips)
(This thread is worthelss without sound clips)
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Originally Posted by Jay'Z
Cipher cant change the idle on an 04.5 FYI