I'm at MY N/A Max!!!! VQ35 Guru's needed.
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From: Chesapeake, VA/The Bronx
Dyno Inc is in VA Beach. It's an AWD Mustang dyno though.... you can still use it just fine, but the Mustang will read a lil bit low

There it is. Roughly 5-10 minutes from wherever you're at in VA Beach
I predict ~245-250 rwhp on THAT dyno...
(btw, a quick google of "dyno virginia beach" gives the one local business result of Dyno Inc... how hard did you look lol)

There it is. Roughly 5-10 minutes from wherever you're at in VA Beach
I predict ~245-250 rwhp on THAT dyno...
(btw, a quick google of "dyno virginia beach" gives the one local business result of Dyno Inc... how hard did you look lol)
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From: Chesapeake, VA/The Bronx
Originally Posted by doug
i'm not recommending them for nothing more than dyno though.. just so you know.. i would still go to Function Tuned for the TT work
BTW: I help my friend with his engine re-built after he blow with APS ST.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...lbum207&page=1
Last edited by citymunky; Dec 16, 2007 at 01:28 PM.
Originally Posted by citymunky
I drive a '05 G35 Coupe 6MT, and I'm finally done with my N/A mods. I'm going GReddy TT (Hopeful with a short block) , so everything I did is going to help me squeeze out some more HP down the FI road. Here the list of my mod's with claimed HP/TQ. Now I'm going to start buying FI supporting mod's again.
ALL NUMBER'S CAME FROM MANUFACTURER WEBSITE, G35Driver or HERE.
-Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel(13.5lbs Vs stock 27.6 lbs) ???HP/ ???TQ
-Kinetix HFC (Version 1) 6-8WHP/ ??? TQ
-HKS Hi-Power Cat Back: 12WHP/ 4-7TQ
-Unorthodox Racing Ultra SS Pulley Kit: 9WHP/11TQ
-MotorDyne MREV2 Lower Collector Manifold:15-20WHP/18-30TQ W/spacer
-MotorDyne Iso Thermal 3/8" Plenum Spacer:15-20WHP/18-30TQ W/MREV2
-2004 OEM 350Z Intake Tube: 3WHP/???TQ
-K&N High Flow Air Drop-In Filter:1-2 HP/ ??? TQ
-GroundingGear 5-Wire Grounding Kit: 7.5 HP/7 TQ
I would like to know if anybody could give my a realistic HP/TQ estimate (NO RICE MATH ex: 5HP + 10HP= 15HP)
BTW: I'm not going to do a tune/ECU re-flash, headers, or Stillen CAI, I feel it's a waste of money since I'm not staying N/A.
ALL MY MOD'S LISTED HERE.https://my350z.com/forum/members/85439-citymunky.html
ALL NUMBER'S CAME FROM MANUFACTURER WEBSITE, G35Driver or HERE.
-Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel(13.5lbs Vs stock 27.6 lbs) ???HP/ ???TQ
-Kinetix HFC (Version 1) 6-8WHP/ ??? TQ
-HKS Hi-Power Cat Back: 12WHP/ 4-7TQ
-Unorthodox Racing Ultra SS Pulley Kit: 9WHP/11TQ
-MotorDyne MREV2 Lower Collector Manifold:15-20WHP/18-30TQ W/spacer
-MotorDyne Iso Thermal 3/8" Plenum Spacer:15-20WHP/18-30TQ W/MREV2
-2004 OEM 350Z Intake Tube: 3WHP/???TQ
-K&N High Flow Air Drop-In Filter:1-2 HP/ ??? TQ
-GroundingGear 5-Wire Grounding Kit: 7.5 HP/7 TQ
I would like to know if anybody could give my a realistic HP/TQ estimate (NO RICE MATH ex: 5HP + 10HP= 15HP)
BTW: I'm not going to do a tune/ECU re-flash, headers, or Stillen CAI, I feel it's a waste of money since I'm not staying N/A.
ALL MY MOD'S LISTED HERE.https://my350z.com/forum/members/85439-citymunky.html
-1,000,000,000 on your entire post.
I'm guessing between 195 and 205. Don't listen to anyone else, much less getting a dyno - that's just a bunch of mumbo jumbo voodoo stuff. Your number is 200+5, and you can take that to the bank! No matter what you may read or search for here (God forbid), the different mods actually SUBTRACT from each other due to the resonant frequencies of the mismatched components. Only the grounding kit can actually add positive whp, usually understimated at around +22.
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Originally Posted by App6MT
-1,000,000 on 7HP/7TQ from the grounding kit.
-1,000,000,000 on your entire post.
-1,000,000,000 on your entire post.
AS I SAID IN MY FIRST POST I GOT ALL OF MY NUMBERS FROM THE MANUFACTURER WEBSITE, G35Driver or HERE. IN THE CASE OF THE GROUNDING KIT IT CAME FROM HERE: http://groundinggear.com/GroundingGear%AE%20Dynos.htm ALSO FOR YOUR INFORMATION I DIDN'T BUY THE KIT, IT WAS A HAND-ME-DOWN FROM A FRIEND THAT WAS DE-MODDING DOWN IN FL. DO I BELIEVE THE NUMBERS THEY "CLAIM", NO I DON'T. HOWEVER I KNOW WITH MY 4 YEARS OF WORKING WITH ELECTRONICS/5 YEARS ON WORKING ON AIRCRAFT/ 20 YEARS THAT MY FRIEND HAS AS A ELECTRICIAN(APS ST 350Z) I KNOW THAT AN IMPROPER GROUND WILL MAKE ANY ELECTRONIC COMPONENT RUN LESS EFFICIENT. NOT GAIN HP.
-1,000,000,000 ON YOUR LIFE.
Last edited by citymunky; Dec 16, 2007 at 03:14 PM.
Im sorry but I also do not understand the point of this thread. No one has a dyno in their heads and all dynos read different (brand, model, correction factor, ambient temp's, etc.). And dyno's are only a tool not a ***** size calculator
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Originally Posted by jonnylaw
Im sorry but I also do not understand the point of this thread. No one has a dyno in their heads and all dynos read different (brand, model, correction factor, ambient temp's, etc.). And dyno's are only a tool not a ***** size calculator
BTW: why would somebody need a ***** size calculator, just use a ruler, or in my case 2.LOL
I WILL BE GETTING DYNO'ED AFTER THE HOILDAYS ARE OVER.
Man quit acting like a douche-bag... learn to take the heat or get a flame suit because your original post didn't say much for your forum etiquette.
The whole reason we're bashing on your logic is because you even mentioned the ricer math in the first place. Instead of taking a poll on what we think your simple mods and some useless mods (grounding wires? come on...) would put down on a dyno, you should have just done the investigative work yourself and see if the manufacturer's claims could be backed up.
As undrgnd stated, they don't add up like we'd all like. Their claimed gains are from using a stock 350Z on the dyno, bolting said item on, then testing it again on the dyno. Add in other factors and these numbers won't be the same. They also use a whole ton of dyno pulls and will favor higher numbered runs with the said product installed, meanwhile be satisfied with a low number on stock, thus giving the highest peak difference in the curve.
There's a dyno within minutes of your place in VA Beach. I don't care where you are in VA Beach, Dyno Inc is pretty centrally located and easy to get to. They had a lot of issues with running the dyno when I was there, but through some wire tracing, they found the frayed wire that was causing all the havoc.
Now as far as the post with all the caps and the huge font, that was uncalled for.
Oh, and you'd fit in nicely over at www.vadriven.com, it's home to plenty-o-douche and rice is abundant. Say hello and tell them about your sweet grounding kit.
The whole reason we're bashing on your logic is because you even mentioned the ricer math in the first place. Instead of taking a poll on what we think your simple mods and some useless mods (grounding wires? come on...) would put down on a dyno, you should have just done the investigative work yourself and see if the manufacturer's claims could be backed up.
As undrgnd stated, they don't add up like we'd all like. Their claimed gains are from using a stock 350Z on the dyno, bolting said item on, then testing it again on the dyno. Add in other factors and these numbers won't be the same. They also use a whole ton of dyno pulls and will favor higher numbered runs with the said product installed, meanwhile be satisfied with a low number on stock, thus giving the highest peak difference in the curve.
There's a dyno within minutes of your place in VA Beach. I don't care where you are in VA Beach, Dyno Inc is pretty centrally located and easy to get to. They had a lot of issues with running the dyno when I was there, but through some wire tracing, they found the frayed wire that was causing all the havoc.
Now as far as the post with all the caps and the huge font, that was uncalled for.
Oh, and you'd fit in nicely over at www.vadriven.com, it's home to plenty-o-douche and rice is abundant. Say hello and tell them about your sweet grounding kit.
Originally Posted by n1sm0r
Just look for a local dyno day, usually you can get 3 pulls for around $50 with AFR's.
Oh and lastly, you should just quit while you're only a bit behind (never really made it out ahead with this crowd).
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The reason I use large fonts, is because people act like they are blind or can't read. I clearly state where I got all the HP values from, I people act like made it up or that I agree with it 100%, than call me out like I'm the one who "claimed" that value that value in the first place. My Gounding kit was a freebie and that is the only reason I have it, who doesn't like free?? As for my mod's being simply, how complicated can bolt-ons be?? Remember I have a Gretty TT kit, I'm not going to waste my money on a part that I will just have to remove during my big install (The reason why I don't have the Stillen intake). You guys act like I'm using eBay parts, the interfooler or a fake BOV, that would be rice. Now you you say I needing to do my homework on which manufacturer's claims could be backed up, well I did, that why I using the parts I have instead of parts, like the SSV, any long ram CAI, skunk2 spacer etc. I agree with you(Cube) and undrgnd, I know you can't add HP values to get your total HP, that rice math. (However I don't agree with my G at 200 WHP, Stock is 298 BHP)
When I first moved to VA somebody told to check-out vadriven.com, and I did, and after a quick review of the boards, i decided that I was not going to be a active member of that forum.
I will be doing a dyno run with A/F after the holidays, when I buy me new tires. My pockets aren't looking as big as they should be.
Now tell me more about your DIY oil catch tank, I want to see if I can make it bigger, and get"7WHP/7 TQ" out of it. LOL
When I first moved to VA somebody told to check-out vadriven.com, and I did, and after a quick review of the boards, i decided that I was not going to be a active member of that forum.
I will be doing a dyno run with A/F after the holidays, when I buy me new tires. My pockets aren't looking as big as they should be.
Now tell me more about your DIY oil catch tank, I want to see if I can make it bigger, and get"7WHP/7 TQ" out of it. LOL
Last edited by citymunky; Dec 18, 2007 at 10:05 AM.







