Real Borla Dynos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego, CA
Hehehe...failsafe, I told you its the Fairlady Z emblem!!!!
By the way bro, your the reason why I spent another $300 on my car. I just bought the damn EDFC after seeing yours.
By the way bro, your the reason why I spent another $300 on my car. I just bought the damn EDFC after seeing yours.
Last edited by importriders; Jun 18, 2003 at 01:14 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: arizona
I put 3500 miles on my Stillen exhaust between dynos and the results were the same both times. So I really dont buy into the ECU talk. I would not be happy with these numbers after hearing about 25hp 15 tq gains from Borla if I bought one of these. Hopefully with all of the" soon to come dynos" someone will show some real gains.
Oh yah those wheels look SICK !
Oh yah those wheels look SICK !
....for your health
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,592
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From: Raider Nation
Originally posted by importriders
Hehehe...failsafe, I told you its the Fairlady Z emblem!!!! By the way bro, your the reason why I spent another $300 on my car. I just bought the damn EDFC after seeing yours.
Hehehe...failsafe, I told you its the Fairlady Z emblem!!!!
By the way bro, your the reason why I spent another $300 on my car. I just bought the damn EDFC after seeing yours.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,383
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From: Puerto Rico
Hey guys!
First... all the cars are not the same!
Here in P.R. is always 90+ degree (All year) so the car feels the same no matter what time of the year. I dyno w/o Borla a few month ago, so the #'s of the Borla are in theory... I already said that I don't have a real baseline dyno and hope for someone do a good baseline and see good gains.... Maybe I was wrong, I don't know. the thing is that this is the first "Real" dyno of the system.... only time will tell!!!
P.S. I race the 350Z of my friend with AEM and Stillen Exhaust and I was 2 cars ahead the four times we run... so I'm happy with my System.
First... all the cars are not the same!
Here in P.R. is always 90+ degree (All year) so the car feels the same no matter what time of the year. I dyno w/o Borla a few month ago, so the #'s of the Borla are in theory... I already said that I don't have a real baseline dyno and hope for someone do a good baseline and see good gains.... Maybe I was wrong, I don't know. the thing is that this is the first "Real" dyno of the system.... only time will tell!!!
P.S. I race the 350Z of my friend with AEM and Stillen Exhaust and I was 2 cars ahead the four times we run... so I'm happy with my System.
I was wondering. How much WHP do heavier 19" wheels and 19" x P275 tires steel from the Z compared to the stock 18"s? Anyone have any idea? That probably has a little, or even a lot 
, to do with it.
, to do with it.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 315
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Originally posted by throbbing_Zon
I was wondering. How much WHP do heavier 19" wheels and 19" x P275 tires steel from the Z compared to the stock 18"s? Anyone have any idea? That probably has a little, or even a lot , to do with it.
I was wondering. How much WHP do heavier 19" wheels and 19" x P275 tires steel from the Z compared to the stock 18"s? Anyone have any idea? That probably has a little, or even a lot
, to do with it.
Yeah, I was just gonna post that wheels will rob a lot of power. Reason being is he had the track wheels before which are around 18lbs each, right? Well, I'm sure those SF Winnings aren't very light. Probably around 25lbs each or somewhere around there. It doesn't sound like a lot, but unsprung weight matters a lot to performance and it's just more dead weight for the engine to turn (I think for every pound of unsprung weight, it's like adding 3lbs to the car). Oh yeah, the 19" tires probably are a lot heavier too since they're most likely wider. Hey Lyndon... go weigh your track wheels with tires and then weigh the SF Winning's to tell us the weight difference. But other than potential loss of power, THOSE WHEELS ARE SICK. 
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Charlotte, NC
Well, I should be able to kick in my .02 worth Saturday.
My Borla Dual is getting put on as I type this. When I pick up my car today, it will drive directly home where it will sit until I go to the dyno shop on Saturday. Total driving distance will be something like 25 miles.
This is the same shop where I dynoed right at 230 bone stock. Since then, I have done absolutely nothing to my car except tint the windows. No CAI yet, no grounding kit yet, original wheels on the car.
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos.
My Borla Dual is getting put on as I type this. When I pick up my car today, it will drive directly home where it will sit until I go to the dyno shop on Saturday. Total driving distance will be something like 25 miles.
This is the same shop where I dynoed right at 230 bone stock. Since then, I have done absolutely nothing to my car except tint the windows. No CAI yet, no grounding kit yet, original wheels on the car.
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: nj
This is the same shop where I dynoed right at 230 bone stock. Since then, I have done absolutely nothing to my car except tint the windows. No CAI yet, no grounding kit yet, original wheels on the car.
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos. [/B][/QUOTE]
Don't you have upgraded rims and tires? I see it on the bottom of your post
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos. [/B][/QUOTE]
Don't you have upgraded rims and tires? I see it on the bottom of your post
Last edited by DMONTE; Jun 19, 2003 at 04:01 AM.
Originally posted by J Ritt
Holy F*****g S**t...a legit dyno comparison...finally...thank you! I need a cigarette.
Sorry it didn't make power for you. I found the 20whp hard to swallow...that would even be a lot on most factory turbo cars...I guess it's just more manufacturer BS. Based on the Borla hysteria that swept this board and others, I'm assuming they've already sold enough of these exhausts to cover development costs. 
Ah well...time to start looking for the next holy grail.
At least it sounds/looks good and you dropped some weight.
Those rims are really sweet. They give the Z a very Porsche 911 style look...similar to all the Fikse wheels those guys run at the track (road courses, not drag strips). I was considering something in that style, but decided I wanted something easier to clean! I hope it doesn't rain much in your area!
Holy F*****g S**t...a legit dyno comparison...finally...thank you! I need a cigarette.
Sorry it didn't make power for you. I found the 20whp hard to swallow...that would even be a lot on most factory turbo cars...I guess it's just more manufacturer BS. Based on the Borla hysteria that swept this board and others, I'm assuming they've already sold enough of these exhausts to cover development costs. Ah well...time to start looking for the next holy grail. At least it sounds/looks good and you dropped some weight.
Those rims are really sweet. They give the Z a very Porsche 911 style look...similar to all the Fikse wheels those guys run at the track (road courses, not drag strips). I was considering something in that style, but decided I wanted something easier to clean! I hope it doesn't rain much in your area!
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego, CA
Okay I'm gonna answer some questions.
1) NO I DID NOT DYNO WITH THE NEW RIMS!!! OMG!!! I'm an engineer for gods sake. Brian you should know better.
But yes, I wish I could say I did the dyno with the new rims. That would be a really good excuse for the results, and 4hp gain would be awesome.
2)No the tire pressure sensors cant fit on the Winnings due to the placement of the valve stem on the rims. The hole is in the center of the rim and you need to use the valve stems that came with the rims.
3) Track rims are gonna be my track rims.
1) NO I DID NOT DYNO WITH THE NEW RIMS!!! OMG!!! I'm an engineer for gods sake. Brian you should know better.
But yes, I wish I could say I did the dyno with the new rims. That would be a really good excuse for the results, and 4hp gain would be awesome.
2)No the tire pressure sensors cant fit on the Winnings due to the placement of the valve stem on the rims. The hole is in the center of the rim and you need to use the valve stems that came with the rims.
3) Track rims are gonna be my track rims.
Last edited by importriders; Jun 19, 2003 at 04:26 PM.
Originally posted by mcduck
Well, I should be able to kick in my .02 worth Saturday.
My Borla Dual is getting put on as I type this. When I pick up my car today, it will drive directly home where it will sit until I go to the dyno shop on Saturday. Total driving distance will be something like 25 miles.
This is the same shop where I dynoed right at 230 bone stock. Since then, I have done absolutely nothing to my car except tint the windows. No CAI yet, no grounding kit yet, original wheels on the car.
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos.
Well, I should be able to kick in my .02 worth Saturday.
My Borla Dual is getting put on as I type this. When I pick up my car today, it will drive directly home where it will sit until I go to the dyno shop on Saturday. Total driving distance will be something like 25 miles.
This is the same shop where I dynoed right at 230 bone stock. Since then, I have done absolutely nothing to my car except tint the windows. No CAI yet, no grounding kit yet, original wheels on the car.
If I can get worked in on Saturday, I'll post the before and after dynos.
No theory on the 24 hours. That is what the shop manual says.
I posted this in another current thread on how to do it quicker (also from the shop manual):
I posted this in another current thread on how to do it quicker (also from the shop manual):
It takes 24 hours according to the shop manual to reset the ECU if you just pull the battery.
You can also do it this way:
1) Make sure the ignition is switched off.
2) Wait at least 10 secs, then switch On (not started)
3) Wait 3 seconds
4) Press and release accelerator quickly 5 times within 5 seconds
5) Wait 7 seconds
6) Fully push and hold accelerator for 10 seconds until the MIL starts to blink
7) Release accelerator (you are in diagnostic mode)
8) To erase, press the accelerator fully and hold for at least 10 seconds
You can also do it this way:
1) Make sure the ignition is switched off.
2) Wait at least 10 secs, then switch On (not started)
3) Wait 3 seconds
4) Press and release accelerator quickly 5 times within 5 seconds
5) Wait 7 seconds
6) Fully push and hold accelerator for 10 seconds until the MIL starts to blink
7) Release accelerator (you are in diagnostic mode)
8) To erase, press the accelerator fully and hold for at least 10 seconds
Originally posted by MannishBoy
No theory on the 24 hours. That is what the shop manual says.
I posted this in another current thread on how to do it quicker (also from the shop manual):
No theory on the 24 hours. That is what the shop manual says.
I posted this in another current thread on how to do it quicker (also from the shop manual):
Idle Air Volume Learning Description:
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific
range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
_ Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
_ Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
Without CONSULT-II
NOTE:
_ It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
_ It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
has a malfunction.
1. Perform EC-50, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-51, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, “Idle Air Volume Learning” will not be carried
out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the “DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE”
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific
range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
_ Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
_ Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
Without CONSULT-II
NOTE:
_ It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
_ It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
has a malfunction.
1. Perform EC-50, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-51, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, “Idle Air Volume Learning” will not be carried
out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the “DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE”
EC-73, Erase Diagnostic.
That clears codes. Somebody also told me it works for the learning functions as well. If not, let us know.
This same procedure is also under EC-52, which you posted, "Idle Air Volume Learning". That section also points you to "Accelerator Pedal Released Learning" (ignition on for 2 secs, off for 10, and repeat) and "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" (basically turning ignition on for 10 seconds). That procedure is slightly different, so I guess you should maybe do both?
That clears codes. Somebody also told me it works for the learning functions as well. If not, let us know.
This same procedure is also under EC-52, which you posted, "Idle Air Volume Learning". That section also points you to "Accelerator Pedal Released Learning" (ignition on for 2 secs, off for 10, and repeat) and "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" (basically turning ignition on for 10 seconds). That procedure is slightly different, so I guess you should maybe do both?
Last edited by MannishBoy; Jun 19, 2003 at 05:44 PM.