03'Z33

My upper radiator hose had a crack, I replaced it with another hose and now the car runs hot, Basically theres no coolant flowing at all from the radiator to the engine. After changing it noticed the cars tempt was climbing quick, before I could get back to the house from the neighborhood, the service soon light came on, I know it came on because of the engine tempt. Did a ecu reset since I know the car running so hot caused it to come on. But no luck, the car still wont run right. I made sure the there was plenty of coolant, I didn't loosen any wires and made sure everything was on tight but I have no idea whats going on...

Any idea's on where to start looking...?

Fleet Z

iTrader: (24)

Sounds like you're air-bound. There's a bleeder on the heater hose at the rear of the engine. Loosen the bleeder and refill the system until you can see coolant leaking out the bleeder. Run the engine at 3000 rpm and watch your temp gauge. The air should purge from the system. If not repeat the steps....

CSF

iTrader: (1)

yup...sounds like air
^^do what he said

03'Z33

Alright will do, just getting home. Will post results in a little while.

HKS-Z

iTrader: (1)

man-the suspense is killing me.

03'Z33

I know this is going to sound real bad but I have no idea where the bleeder is, looked towards the rear of the engine but no avail. I know it runs into the firewall, it's dark out now, it'll have to wait till the morn.

Coming from a gsxr 600, these working conditions are a lil tight lol...

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

It is on the passenger side of the motor and it is inline with the hose that goes in to the firewall (to the heater core). It is a relatively small fitting with a phillips heads fitting on the top to open it up. just follow the heater hose and you'll find it!

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

You'll want to run the heater too after you purge the system. If you don't get hot air, you still have a bubble in the coolant.

Here's what the bleeder looks like.

halfass872

iTrader: (35)

FWIW i got air bound last week when i changed out my radiator. And even after venting all the air at the bleed valve. I still had to periodically open my radiator cap each day before i took her out and add a cup or so of fluid. Took me three or four cycles before all the air got out of the system. It's a pain!! there's no easy way around it!

03'Z33

Update...lol

Well today tried the above tips to no avail. I was heading in the right direction when all hell broke loose. I had the car running and it was heating up nicely, had the heater on etc etc, well car was still running hot, so I kept purging the system but couldn't get the tempt down.

Well now the engines been on for a while and im like the hell with this, so I loosen the bleeder on the heater hose even more, my buddy ask "how long are you supposed to keep it loose" and my reply was "long enough till coolant starts to come out" all the time im still loosening the bleeder under the hood, and right when I finish saying that, the damn plug shoots off and and coolant shoots EVERYWHERE, I burn the **** outta my arm, it goes in my mouth all over the garage and everything under the hood even, on the HKS intake, like a damn geyser.

I my buddy stands back like oh **** lol and im yelling turn it off! So he does and for about 2 secs its still shooting off...So at the end of the day and clean up. Car still running hot and it's going straight to nissan tomorrow...Or a oil change place that does radiator flushes...

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

i guess we should have told you to do it with the engine OFF.

03'Z33

Ha...yeah maybe, it's all good though, lesson learned.

halfass872

iTrader: (35)

For future reference. Use a good flashlight, and loosen it SLOWLY! The point where it will start to vent off, is very close to the point where the bleeder cap will come off.

DMK

iTrader: (6)

What whats the correct procedure?

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

it's long and arduous! from the FSM:

FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM

1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and
reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap.
2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.
4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.
5. Drain the water from the system. Refer to

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from the radiator.

REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT

1. Install reservoir tank if removed, and radiator drain plug.
2. Close and tighten cylinder block drain plugs securely if removed.

Apply thread sealant to the threads of the cylinder block drain plugs.

Use Genuine Thread sealant or equivalent. GI-47, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS
AND SEALANTS".
3. Remove air relief plug on heater hose.

KBIA1021E

Radiator drain plug:
: 0.78 - 1.6 N·m (0.08 - 0.16 kg-m, 7 - 14 in-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (LH):
: 17.6 - 21.6 N·m (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 - 15 ft-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (RH):
: 17.6 - 21.6 N·m (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 - 15 ft-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (Front side):
: 7.8 - 11.8 N.m (0.8 - 1.2 Kg-m, 69 - 104 in-lb)

PBIC0894E

CO-10
ENGINE COOLANT

4. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.

Pour engine coolant through coolant filler neck slowly of
less than 2 (2-1/8US qt,1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute to allow
air in system to escape.

Use genuine Nissan anti-freeze coolant or equivalent
mixed with water (distilled or demineralized. Refer to GI-
47, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS AND SEALANTS".

When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose,
install air relief plug with new O-ring.
5. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator
cap installed.
6. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle
speed.

Repeat two or three times.
7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).

Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.

If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.
8. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
9. Repeat steps 5 through 8 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer
drops.
10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.
11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r
pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM.

Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
12. Repeat step 10 three times.
13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 5 through 8 until engine coolant level no
longer drops.

Clean excess coolant from engine.