cjeezy

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

Aside from the clutch actually malfunctioning, is there any way to tell if a replacement clutch will be needed in the near future BEFORE it starts acting up?

dutchboy350Z

iTrader: (5)

Start engine put it in 5th or 6th gear. Release clutch. If you DON'T stall, your clutch is kapoot. If you DO stall your clutch still has plenty of life.

wannabuy350z

iTrader: (27)

^would like to add make sure there is nothing infront of you.

cjeezy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I'll try it later tonight

cjeezy

iTrader: (1)

Ok I couldn't wait. I put it in 5th and it immediately stalled out

Cannysage

iTrader: (29)

good info.. didn't know this

dutchboy350Z

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I got the advice from one of our sponsors here (DaveFunction2nd).

mikez97

iTrader: (12)

accelerate it 2nd gear and mash the gas if the rpms go up and your not going anywhere for a couple of seconds your clutch is getting there.

Reyes_USN

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the advice

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Or your breaking the rear tires loose.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Not so sure I agree with that method only, you may see slippage at speed before that. Dropping the clutch from a standstill in 5th may still have enough grip to stall the motor. Try also a rolling test, IMHO that will show it's starting to go well before it actually stops working.

I first found mine slipping by starting from say 30-40 mph or so, let the revs drop in 5th to pretty low (~1500 rpm), then mash the throttle. If its on the way out, the clutch may briefly slip and you'll see the revs go up but speed not as much as you'd expect, then the clutch catches and it feels normal at cruising speeds. I drove it something like 500 miles after that started up, and it was toast.

Or you could pull it and look at it (j/k!). In my case, that was pretty conclusive - seems like it got kind hot at times



And it should go w/o saying, but IMHO there is no reason to put another Nissan Clutch OEM "Valueline" in there (the < $300 all inclusive parts), same as you'd get with an Altima V6 or Maxima, it's just not up to the motor if you drive the car remotely hard.

I have plenty of company, check for clutch on this forum - I've seen as little as 10k miles and gone, and more than a few around 30-40k miles (myself included). Sure, I was hard on it at times, but I didn't go around doing donuts and clutch drops. My JWT has 17k miles and still feels great!

cjeezy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the feedback. So with your 5th gear test are you saying from a dead stop put the car in 5th and mash on the gas OR while cruising at 30-40 miles shift to 5th and mash on the gas? Not that it matters this second anyways as my car went in the shop today. It woulnt start this morning. The battery and alternator are trying to start the engine but its like its not getting fuel. My "service engine soon" light is on too."

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear that, almost wonder if there's some sort of ECU screw-up. Nissan ECU's usually let the car have plenty fuel to get the engine to start, and if there are sensor issues, etc, it may run rich or lean, but it usually runs. However with the fly-by-wire throttle, it could be something as simple as it's lost it's throttle wide open, throttle fully depressed memory, the code should pinpoint things pretty quickly. If you're so inclined grab a copy of the FSM and read the section on ECU/EM and diagnostics. There's quite a bit you can find out with a generic scanner or even with no CONSULT or no scanner.

I meant once up to speed rolling like 30-40 mph, lower than you'd use 5th gear normally, shift into 5th, mash the throttle, if you see a surge in revs w/o commensurate increase in speed, then it's slipping.

IF you need a replacement beware that myself and others have had requests to pre-approve an $1100 dual-mass OEM flywheel as part of the clutch replacement "just in case it needs to be replaced". I have a really hard time believing the FW cannot be usually machined back to tolerance, and the paranoid side says it's easier for the dealer to replace it new and it makes them more money. That's a fast way to turn a ~<$800 clutch job into a $1600-2000 job, don't let them take you there.

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

how about that yummy smell of clutch burning? smoke coming through the hood....ohh wait that was with my evo...lol

cjeezy

iTrader: (1)

Just got a call back from the dealer. They said a CAM sensor needs replaced.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Sounds about right. Their nickel I'd assume, unless you're out of warranty period entirely.

Phantom Menace

iTrader: (4)

You'll have to "ride" the clutch more and more before the gears engage. This would be most prominent with 1st gear and reverse.

dutchboy350Z

iTrader: (5)

Just got back from the track last friday. I was launching at 4-5.5k on mickey tompsons. The JWT clutch flywheel took it like a champ. I did 20+ pulls without a problem.

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

N/A right dutch? i would hope the jwt would hold. just watch the axles man.

dutchboy350Z

iTrader: (5)

Yep, I preload the drivetrain everytime. It would be a freak accident if I snapped my axle.

I pulled two 1.9X 60 ft with only 248 rwhp in my fat **** roadster. I'll never go out on street tires again.