0w40 is flying off the ****ing shelves.... Cant find no moe..

 

I think a lot of people use Motul because other people tell them to use Motul - not because they have any specific data saying Motul is worth the added cost. The whole arguement of "well, I've used it for xxx number of miles and never had an issue..." doesn't hold water. You could fill your crankcase with supertech from Walmart, and I bet you wouldn't have any issues either, as long as you were doing regular oil changes. Only a UOA or varying degrees of oil consumption between brands are going to tell you anything.

 

well what do people recommend because i see everyone recommending the motul and not relying on material facts

 

check out the link I posted. Amsoil, Mobile 1, German Syntec, Pennzoil Platinum, Schaeffers, and Shell Rotella T-syn (5w-40) all are very very good oils.

 

T-Syn FTW.

 

I have to agree, especially in a turbo Z. I used this stuff twice before selling her and the UOA's were fantastic. I recommended that the buyer stick with that oil.

 

+1 on the Amsoil...great prices too if you join the membership for 20 dollars.

 

I guess everyone else missed the part where he said " he's draining the motor oil from the car and replacing it with a performance orianted synthetic 20w50 motor oil ".

Well.... NO SIHT !!! Going from about the heaviest oil you'd ever want to run in ANY street car/truck motor, to the lightest oil you can buy, is going to net some gains !!! Honestly, I'm supprised it didn't gain more !!!

I use 20W50 in my 280K cherokee to help the oil presure ( and in Florida, the motor oil is pretty dang warm before you even start the engine ), I'd NEVER DREAM of using a 20W50 in a high-tech, high revving motor like the VQ35DE.

This really is about the dumbest thing I've seen someone dyno a car for... I honestly would have rather seen a "tornado air charger" dyno compairison, and that's pretty bad.

I raced the mobil 1 0W-40 through my SRT4 for 4 years and LOVED IT. With hearing all the oil burning issues the VQ has, I'm sticking to the 5W30 mobil1.

This is not to say that the Enenos isn't as good or better, but its almost like they are false advertising it !!! To compare a 0W50 to a 20W50 is retarded. They aren't really making false claims, but I think they purposely made it hard to catch that they used 20W50. Now why would they use a 20W50, to compare their 0W50 to, when mobil 1 makes a 0W-40?

Besides, I'd take a trusted, proven product over something new with claims of adding a HUGE 3whp and 1Ft. of torque..... You gain more power than that just by driving by someones house with the sprinklers on in the front yard !!

 

The only difference between a 0w50 and a 20w50 is the cold viscosity. When the oil is hot both are a 50 weight oil, and no this oil is not too thick for the VQ. Im not saying its a good idea to run a 20w anything on a daily driver but once hot a 50 is a 50. So I dont see how you can consider this false advertising.

Note that I dont believe the hp gain has anything to do with the performance of the oil in any way.

 

Do you have any UOA yet? I know that on mine the Eneos sheared out of grade and had a really low TBN, along with excessive burn-off (which has now been confirmed by other users)

 

To be truly fair, you have to look at the reported viscosity of the oil, not the rated number. Those 2 oils could be on the opposite ends of the spectrum for the 50 weight oil. For example, compare the mobil 1 to german castrol for the reported viscosity numbers. You'll find that they are very different, although they are both rated as 30 weight oil. You'll also see that M1 happens to be a very 'thin' 30 weight while German Castrol is almost a 40 weight oil. It's not apples to apples until you look at the actual detailed numbers.

 

Oil samples are at Blackstone as we speak. Awaiting results. I have one test back thats very positive but I need something to compare to to know for sure. Im also getting some unused 0w50 analized.

The TBN for the oil even unused starts with a low number, so it leads alot of people to believe the oil has a very short change interval. From some research ive been doing the TBN is not the only thing that determined oil change interval.

My oil analysis using 0w50 for 5k miles shows only a small breakdown of the oil. The TBN starts low but it doe not go down as fast as most other oils ive seen. Im not sure the reasoning behind this or how it works, only thing i can conclude is the high grade base oil used with quality additives that dont break down as fast.

What im really excited to see is the analysis of the 0w20 that i have that was in a car for 20k miles. That should be a very interesting result good or bad.

 

Switched out my oil to the 0w20 and notice noo difference at all with start up, noise, or oil pressure. Figured id notice at least a drop in oil pressure with a 0w20. Sample 3 of 0w50 off for an analysis.

All results will be up very soon.