I have read all of the APS oil pan threads on my350, and I can't seem to find anyone giving an exact torque specification for the drain plug bolt on the oil pan.

I have been using the torque spec for the OE pan (about 34 Nm), and it seems pretty tight. Almost "I might strip it if I go any further" tight.

I know the aluminum pans have a tendency to strip threads, especially APS . I am just now sure how low of a torque setting I should set the wrench at when installing the plug after an oil change. Members have posted just to thread it in hand tight and then like a half turn after that, but I appreciate accuracy, and I have a bad history of over-torquing things for fear of leaks, so the torque wrench helps me to regulate that compulsion of mine.

What's a good number, everyone?

p.s. I emailed APS a few days ago about it, and haven't received an answer....such a simple question too!

 

Hand tighten it as tight as you can with a hand driver, then give it 1/4 turn more with a wrench. Tight enough not to leak, but not so tight that you're stripping or damaging aluminum threads.

 

I'll try that out. Thanks.

I hope it doesn't leak considering it's not going to be that tight.

Do you think I already did any damage using the factory torque spec for the drain plug?

 

It won't leak. I tighten mine the same way and it doesn't leak. Although I have an ARC aluninum pan and Titek magnetic plug...

Edit: If you've already damaged the threads... It might leak... Just have to see. If it's damaged, a helicoil will fix it. Or just drill it and tap it for a bigger plug - Then be more careful.

 

I'm hoping there's no stripping. I've had two plugs in this pan, so far, and a third I am waiting to put in. The first one was a parts-store magnetic plug with one of their copper crush washers. It had a weak magnet, so I went under the car to replace it, and I was disappointed to find it was leaking. I immediately replaced it with the APS (non-magnetic) drain plug, along with the copper washer that came with the pan. So far (knock on wood) no leaks. I am thinking it was the crappy parts-store plug along with their crappy washer that caused the leaking.

I have my new magnetic plug waiting for install, but I am going to keep the current (APS) plug in there for a while to ensure there is no leaking before putting in the next plug.

Why in the world does APS not give you a torque spec for the drain plug to prevent the possibility for stripping threads?

 

Better question is: Why don't they put a steel threaded sleeve in there to prevent stripping altogether?

 

FUMOTO.......................

 

I know.

 

I know about those. Very cool design.

I want to continuing using a magnetic drain plug, so it's not gonna work for me, unfortunately.

 

+1 to fumoto. Do you actually collect metal shavings on the magnet? If the oil filter isn't catching them, I'd be surprised...

 

If the APS pan is of the same material as the stock pan and the threads are the same size, the stock torque of about 34Nm is the torque to use.

Nissan uses a copper crush washer. If your plug uses a softer material, you probably could get away with less torque, but there's no reason to.

Asterix

 

^
Stock pan = stamped steel
APS pan = cast aluminum

 

I change my oil every 3k miles, and I haven't seen any noticeable shavings. It's just in there for my piece of mind, but it's not terribly necessary.

 

Goth, the APS non-magnetic plug comes with a copper washer, yet my magnetic plug comes with an aluminum washer. I know you should replace the washer every oil change, so does it really matter what I go with? Aluminum or copper?

 

I don't even use a crush washer, just the bare plug... No leaks.

 

Well, then, playing around with this bolt calculator, using a pretty soft aluminum (6061-T6) and typical steel for the plug, I get a recommended torque of 31Nm, and a maximum of 41.5Nm. That's pretty much what we started with, 36Nm.

I'd still go with 36Nm, or 31 if you're feeling cautious.

Asterix

 

Nifty!

What I'll do is loosen it up, hand tighten it, make a mark somewhere on the outside edge of it with a sharpie, set the torque to 31Nm, and tighten it to that.

The mark on it is to see how much the plug rotates. Hopefully it'll only be a 1/4 of a turn or a 1/2 turn past the "catch" point when it starts to get tight.

That way, it'll be right between what GothChick recommends to do, and what you do. (I have a feeling 31Nms will result in more than just another quarter/half of a turn past finger tight, though).

What to do...what to do...

 

Update: Set the torque wrench to 31Nm and made a mark on the plug to see how much it would rotate past finger tight when tightening to that spec. It was less than a quarter of a turn past finger tight. Maybe between 1/8 and 1/4 of a turn. Still feels like it might strip though with just a little more! I think that it should be fine, though. Given the amount of turn, it doesn't seem like too much does it?

 

I use "Feels right torque" on mine , much easier doing it that way. Havn't stripped one or had one come loose in the past 17 years

 

Point taken. The car's up on stands now, so I'll loosen it and tighten until it feels right.