Nismo clutch and diff's released
Just wanted to let you all know that the Nismo Clutchs and Diff's have been released and are (VERY) slowly coming in. These ones below will be going in my car this week and I'll review them...
Here are some specs
LSD:
*Designed as a multipurpose LSD for city driving with increased power for track or autocross conditions.
*Constructed with 4 pinion gears for improved strength (stock has 2)
*Plate type 1.5-way LSD can be converted to 2-way LSD
*3 stage initial torque selective can be adjusted without disassembling the LSD.
*Comes with oil, seals, brgs and bolts.
Clutch Cover and Disc:
*Increased holding power/pressure to 1030 kg when used as a set.
*Torque capacity of 57 kg/M when used as a set.
*Disc is copper and organic mix.
Sorry any questions will have to be answered by other forum members as I don't know jack about this stuff. I hope to learn a lot from you guys and by putting it in my own car.

Here are some specs
LSD:
*Designed as a multipurpose LSD for city driving with increased power for track or autocross conditions.
*Constructed with 4 pinion gears for improved strength (stock has 2)
*Plate type 1.5-way LSD can be converted to 2-way LSD
*3 stage initial torque selective can be adjusted without disassembling the LSD.
*Comes with oil, seals, brgs and bolts.
Clutch Cover and Disc:
*Increased holding power/pressure to 1030 kg when used as a set.
*Torque capacity of 57 kg/M when used as a set.
*Disc is copper and organic mix.
Sorry any questions will have to be answered by other forum members as I don't know jack about this stuff. I hope to learn a lot from you guys and by putting it in my own car.

Originally posted by Mike Wazowski
ooooohie
are these j-spec nismo parts or are they becoming a part of the nismo u.s. lineup?
ooooohie
are these j-spec nismo parts or are they becoming a part of the nismo u.s. lineup?
Originally posted by Jeff@Performance
Got them in stock. Part of the standard Nismo program.
Got them in stock. Part of the standard Nismo program.
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Originally posted by yobri
Searched your site for pricing of these mentioned items, but to no avail. I'm interested, but I would like to see what pricing is.
Searched your site for pricing of these mentioned items, but to no avail. I'm interested, but I would like to see what pricing is.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=44317
Last edited by Jeff@Performance; Sep 29, 2003 at 11:01 AM.
Originally posted by sschmuve
what does this mean?.....What's it for?
"*3 stage initial torque selective can be adjusted without disassembling the LSD"
what does this mean?.....What's it for?
"*3 stage initial torque selective can be adjusted without disassembling the LSD"
MAN!!! I just had my tranny replaced, I had no idea these were available!!! That would have been a free install on the clutch. What a bummer!
On the 60%, 80% and 100% thing, I know it affects driveability so I assume 100% means it has no slip so steetability is not very good, I heard 60% was best on some of the other brands for the street and the higher percents were good for the track. The great thing is, we'll be able to change setting's at the track!
On the 60%, 80% and 100% thing, I know it affects driveability so I assume 100% means it has no slip so steetability is not very good, I heard 60% was best on some of the other brands for the street and the higher percents were good for the track. The great thing is, we'll be able to change setting's at the track!
Originally posted by Jeff@Performance
I was told by Nissan we can go 60%, 80% or 100%.... anybody care to share what this is about..... Where's raceboy?
I was told by Nissan we can go 60%, 80% or 100%.... anybody care to share what this is about..... Where's raceboy?
my understanding is these percentages have to do with the amount of (%) of torque being applied to the wheel that is slipping. Therefore 100 % means both wheels get the same amount of torque at all times whereas something like 60 % means that the wheel without traction gets only gets the 60% of its available torque while the wheel with traction would get up to its available 100 %which helps in day to day streetability.
The 60/80/100 is the ammount of lockup on the axle between the right and left side when under acceleration. 100% means that effectively you have a solid axle or "locked" differential while accelerating. Anyone who has ever driven a solid axle race kart should know the feeling. 100% lockup is really going to want to make the car not want to turn or understeer while under power. It will help to stabilize the car. Unfortunately, on the street, going around slow turns will be embaressing with a lot of popping noises as one tire is now forced to slip, not to mention the stress you put on the axles. 80% would be fairly agressive for the street, but livable, 60% would be a great street diff setting, but 80% is probably the setting I will end up doing on my Cusco.
I wonder how you can adjust the diff without disassembly? Even though you don't have to disassemble to adjust, I don't think that means you can adjust it at the track. You would need to remove the diff housing cover to do it.
What I am wondering is why it requires new axle ends (that go into the diff housing) and bolts? Or is that just in the picture? Hell, I paid over $1000 for my Cusco RS 1.5 way and I still need to get some other parts to make it work. I thought I read somewhere that the Nismo diff is under $900, a smokin deal (wish I waited, but we had no idea at the time if the diff was ever going to come in).
I wonder how you can adjust the diff without disassembly? Even though you don't have to disassemble to adjust, I don't think that means you can adjust it at the track. You would need to remove the diff housing cover to do it.
What I am wondering is why it requires new axle ends (that go into the diff housing) and bolts? Or is that just in the picture? Hell, I paid over $1000 for my Cusco RS 1.5 way and I still need to get some other parts to make it work. I thought I read somewhere that the Nismo diff is under $900, a smokin deal (wish I waited, but we had no idea at the time if the diff was ever going to come in).
Also, the 100%, 80%, 60% are relative to the initial strength of the diff. Therefore, one brands 60% may equate to anothers 80% if they have different amounts of clamping force to begin with. I'm guessing that's probably a moot point since it is likely that the aftermarket diffs are pretty similar, but you never know...
-D'oh!
-D'oh!
Right. So 100% would be great if you were doing all-out drag racing, but would suck for circuit-track or auto-x. For tracks with curves you'd want to tone it down a bit on the tension.



