want to upgrade my cams what do yall recommend?
#1
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want to upgrade my cams what do yall recommend?
i want to upgrade my cams but dont know where to start. from brand type,performance,size. will i have to change out anything else or is it a quick drop in job? any advise will help me narrow it down n choose the right cams for my car?
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Teha99 (06-29-2017)
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#9
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I too will
Is it a quick drop in are you kidding me?? It's a good looooong days project if you know what you're doing and have the Nissan 350z Complete service manual. If you take it in to have the stealership install it you could expect to spend the same price that you paid for the cams or more... The Z is not user friendly when it comes the the motor and taking it apart, this isnt your 4cyl honda, just to give you a quick idea what you need to do, pop the hood of your Z and look at the front of the motor, that whole plate where all your pullies are needs to come off... i'm not even going to go into detail as to what else needs to come off, this is not for the newb mechanic.
Is it a quick drop in are you kidding me?? It's a good looooong days project if you know what you're doing and have the Nissan 350z Complete service manual. If you take it in to have the stealership install it you could expect to spend the same price that you paid for the cams or more... The Z is not user friendly when it comes the the motor and taking it apart, this isnt your 4cyl honda, just to give you a quick idea what you need to do, pop the hood of your Z and look at the front of the motor, that whole plate where all your pullies are needs to come off... i'm not even going to go into detail as to what else needs to come off, this is not for the newb mechanic.
Last edited by silverbullet_Z; 08-12-2009 at 01:38 AM.
#11
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just save your $1500
do some real backround investigation on the setup and goals you want to achieve.
if your doing a complete N/A build you'll be spending around 6k to 8k... (depends on aggressiveness)
forced induction, will run you from 5k all the way to 12k if not more... depending on different goals you wanna reach.
both routes aren't cheap.
do some real backround investigation on the setup and goals you want to achieve.
if your doing a complete N/A build you'll be spending around 6k to 8k... (depends on aggressiveness)
forced induction, will run you from 5k all the way to 12k if not more... depending on different goals you wanna reach.
both routes aren't cheap.
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Your best bet is to skip cams until you're ready to go into an in-depth build. I have my motor out of the car at the moment (since it blew up :/), so I am just now considering cams. The only drop in set I would recommend is the Brian Crower 264s. Inexpensive, no valvetrain mods necessary, and decent power gains.
But you have to remember, once you crack open the block you'll want some kind of engine management solution to get the most out of your parts, and you'll want your breather mods completed.
I recommend a wet nitrous kit in a low jetting (75HP), but I don't know too much about automatics and how they handle additional power. Also I'm assuming there is some electronic tomfoolery you will need to get the nitrous to cut off in between shifts. Contact someone at NX and see what you can do. It will definitely make the most power for your buck.
Best Regards,
Gus
But you have to remember, once you crack open the block you'll want some kind of engine management solution to get the most out of your parts, and you'll want your breather mods completed.
I recommend a wet nitrous kit in a low jetting (75HP), but I don't know too much about automatics and how they handle additional power. Also I'm assuming there is some electronic tomfoolery you will need to get the nitrous to cut off in between shifts. Contact someone at NX and see what you can do. It will definitely make the most power for your buck.
Best Regards,
Gus
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Your best bet is to skip cams until you're ready to go into an in-depth build. I have my motor out of the car at the moment (since it blew up :/), so I am just now considering cams. The only drop in set I would recommend is the Brian Crower 264s. Inexpensive, no valvetrain mods necessary, and decent power gains.
But you have to remember, once you crack open the block you'll want some kind of engine management solution to get the most out of your parts, and you'll want your breather mods completed.
I recommend a wet nitrous kit in a low jetting (75HP), but I don't know too much about automatics and how they handle additional power. Also I'm assuming there is some electronic tomfoolery you will need to get the nitrous to cut off in between shifts. Contact someone at NX and see what you can do. It will definitely make the most power for your buck.
Best Regards,
Gus
But you have to remember, once you crack open the block you'll want some kind of engine management solution to get the most out of your parts, and you'll want your breather mods completed.
I recommend a wet nitrous kit in a low jetting (75HP), but I don't know too much about automatics and how they handle additional power. Also I'm assuming there is some electronic tomfoolery you will need to get the nitrous to cut off in between shifts. Contact someone at NX and see what you can do. It will definitely make the most power for your buck.
Best Regards,
Gus
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True, but he could drop them in and retain stock rev limit until he gathered the funds to do it correctly. That said, probably better just to wait and do it right the first time through. I'm only considering it since I have a motor out anyway and it would save me on labor.
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replacing the cams, and then having to take them back out to replace the springs, is the polar opposite from doing it correctly
the OP sounds like he's a long way away from needing, or even considering cams. Not to mention, the right cam for NA and the right cam for FI, as mentioned above, can often differ
the OP sounds like he's a long way away from needing, or even considering cams. Not to mention, the right cam for NA and the right cam for FI, as mentioned above, can often differ
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 08-13-2009 at 09:31 AM.
#18
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replacing the cams, and then having to take them back out to replace the springs, is the polar opposite from doing it correctly
the OP sounds like he's a long way away from needing, or even considering cams. Not to mention, the right cam for NA and the right cam for FI, as mentioned above, can often differ
the OP sounds like he's a long way away from needing, or even considering cams. Not to mention, the right cam for NA and the right cam for FI, as mentioned above, can often differ