Which cams make the most power?
Originally Posted by rednezz
I was thinking about getting the Tomei 268's with headwork also. How much power did you pick up?
Originally Posted by g356gear
Keep in mind that you will need new lifter buckets with the Tomei 268's....a process that can be extremely tedious checking clearances on EVERY lifter.
Can someone recommend a good grind (or even a combo of intake/exhaust grinds) that will give good low/mid range power. I autoX the Z a lot, and I could use a little extra grunt out of those low speed corners.
Or is it always the case that a more aggressive cam will give you more power throughout, so one would just choose the largest cams that would be streetable?
Thanks
Or is it always the case that a more aggressive cam will give you more power throughout, so one would just choose the largest cams that would be streetable?
Thanks
Originally Posted by rednezz
My main concern is tuning.
Originally Posted by ReavTek
Same here. Some people do a reflash and love it, others have problems with it. I know there is an aussie on here that runs a motec ecu with no probs but that is some serious money. Has anyone ran a Greddy Ultimate ECU on a serious NA machine?
I'm getting the EU put in next monday at Dynocomp and tuned. We'll see what happens. I'm not sure what to expect. Seems like everytime I get hopeful of results, something bad happens.
My car isn't really hardcore or anything. Main power mods that generate hp are
injen sp1986 intake - in short ram mode for now, CAI mode on monday (can't tell much difference from JWT popcharger in short ram mode)
350EVO throttlebody
kinetix SSV
JWT cams
crawford headers
crawford cats
nismo exhaust
JIC Y-pipe put in on monday too
TS ECU flash
UR crank pulley
also
3.9 FD and tilton, but those don't really make more actual hp
I'll be having the CJM fuel return system put on also later in the month with the walbro fuel pump. Mainly because it's a heavier duty system and might help even out fuel pressure and all the lines are much tougher than the stock rubber lines
Once I get the rest of my handling stuff put on my car, my car is done aside from maybe some minor body kit stuff. I don't think spending thousands of $ is worth any few extra hp I might get with heads or high CR pistons. At this point I'm not convinced the Z is worth doing FI on for a multitude of reasons. I mean, I should be able to run low 13's or maybe even high 12's with how my car will be set up in a month or so and I like having more responsive handling by not adding 100 lbs to the front of the car
If I go FI, I'll get like a second faster in the 1/4 mile (with street tires anyway), lose some handling, spend a lot of money, possibly overheat the car on road courses, and the reliability of the engine will go down not to mention possible headaches with the whole install process.
I'm going to be moving on to spending money building my '78 C3 corvette to run 10's or 11's NA
My car isn't really hardcore or anything. Main power mods that generate hp are
injen sp1986 intake - in short ram mode for now, CAI mode on monday (can't tell much difference from JWT popcharger in short ram mode)
350EVO throttlebody
kinetix SSV
JWT cams
crawford headers
crawford cats
nismo exhaust
JIC Y-pipe put in on monday too
TS ECU flash
UR crank pulley
also
3.9 FD and tilton, but those don't really make more actual hp
I'll be having the CJM fuel return system put on also later in the month with the walbro fuel pump. Mainly because it's a heavier duty system and might help even out fuel pressure and all the lines are much tougher than the stock rubber lines
Once I get the rest of my handling stuff put on my car, my car is done aside from maybe some minor body kit stuff. I don't think spending thousands of $ is worth any few extra hp I might get with heads or high CR pistons. At this point I'm not convinced the Z is worth doing FI on for a multitude of reasons. I mean, I should be able to run low 13's or maybe even high 12's with how my car will be set up in a month or so and I like having more responsive handling by not adding 100 lbs to the front of the car
If I go FI, I'll get like a second faster in the 1/4 mile (with street tires anyway), lose some handling, spend a lot of money, possibly overheat the car on road courses, and the reliability of the engine will go down not to mention possible headaches with the whole install process.
I'm going to be moving on to spending money building my '78 C3 corvette to run 10's or 11's NA
Last edited by sentry65; Oct 5, 2005 at 11:37 AM.
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