p1283 kicking a$$
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p1283 kicking a$$
this is about the third week iv been driving on a code p1283
iv posted on here before and tried several things to no avail.
so far iv taken apart my intake manifold and replaced two missing bolts and even used a form of gasket sealant as an extra step to insure there weren't any intake leaks. i repaired the hole in my exhaust although im sure that it was set to far back to have any effect. i rechecked all the fittings on the a/f and 0/2 sensors. i wasn't able to check the fuel pressure or the injectors but i did test the connector to the a/f sensor and im fairly sure i had my friend do it correctly although hes an electrician he does housing and not cars. when tested it read only 3.2 volts when it should have read upwards of 9-12 volts with the key in the on position. which is leaving me to believe its an electrical problem more than anything because the car still drives fine with no loss or gain of power and no difference in temperature.
although a new long block is going in, in December im questioning whether i should take the time and effort to have the dealer look at the car because its out of warranty and im not sure if getting it repaired is worth the effort or money because iv read that members even after several attempts at fixing the same code and taking it to the dealership several times the code keeps coming back and they've been driving on it for several years
any thoughts or opinions to what i should do whether its worth it to fix because at the moment its still my dd until i buy my beater when the engines ready to be replaced. or should i just hold off the next 5-6 months and just deal with my cel light on
iv posted on here before and tried several things to no avail.
so far iv taken apart my intake manifold and replaced two missing bolts and even used a form of gasket sealant as an extra step to insure there weren't any intake leaks. i repaired the hole in my exhaust although im sure that it was set to far back to have any effect. i rechecked all the fittings on the a/f and 0/2 sensors. i wasn't able to check the fuel pressure or the injectors but i did test the connector to the a/f sensor and im fairly sure i had my friend do it correctly although hes an electrician he does housing and not cars. when tested it read only 3.2 volts when it should have read upwards of 9-12 volts with the key in the on position. which is leaving me to believe its an electrical problem more than anything because the car still drives fine with no loss or gain of power and no difference in temperature.
although a new long block is going in, in December im questioning whether i should take the time and effort to have the dealer look at the car because its out of warranty and im not sure if getting it repaired is worth the effort or money because iv read that members even after several attempts at fixing the same code and taking it to the dealership several times the code keeps coming back and they've been driving on it for several years
any thoughts or opinions to what i should do whether its worth it to fix because at the moment its still my dd until i buy my beater when the engines ready to be replaced. or should i just hold off the next 5-6 months and just deal with my cel light on
#3
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i was holding off on replacing the actual o/2 senors because the connector where we got the 3.2 volts was the wiring harness not the actual o/2 senor so im unsure if replacing the 0/2 is the case or replacing the connection to the harness
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The 1283 code is for the Manifold o2 sensor. (forget if it's the left or right bank sensor though). I've had it replaced twice and it keeps coming back. It is an expensive fix at the dealer so I would not recommend doing it there. I think the sensors themselves cost around or under $120.. I have been driving on my cel for the past year with no problems yet. This happens when you have a good number of mods to the car. Just leave it and wait the 5-6 months till you get the long block in and get some new sensors.
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#9
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They are the same thing in principle and there are 4 of them on the car, pre and post cat on each side. Narrow bands were used on early model cars (2003 - 2004, 2004.5 and up used widebands). The widebands post cat (called heated O2 sensors in the FSM) are slower responding than those up front (called AF sensors in the FSM).
P1283 is bank 2 (driver's side) sensor 1 (on the manifold, pre-cat) reading lean. You could have an exhaust manifold leak (upstream of the sensor) causing this problem or it could be the sensor.
P1283 is bank 2 (driver's side) sensor 1 (on the manifold, pre-cat) reading lean. You could have an exhaust manifold leak (upstream of the sensor) causing this problem or it could be the sensor.
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