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Best bang for the buck oil cooler?

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Old 06-25-2010 | 03:08 AM
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I went with the GTM Oil Cooler kit. High quality IMO.

(1) SETRAB cooler core (13" X 5.75" X 2 " 19 R 22MM)
(1) 55" S.S. Braided hose with 45 degree swivel ends (-8AN)
(1) 48" S.S. Braided hose with 45 degree swivel ends (-8AN)
(1) Thermostatic oil adapter
(1) Mounting bracket
(2) -8AN22mm adapter fittings
(2) 13/16" Seal
(2) Insulated rubber clamp

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Old 06-25-2010 | 07:35 AM
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I wonder if there's an upside to using the 8an size VS 10.

looks like 200-250 to piece one together or 415 to have it in a kit, plus its black with metal lines Hmmmmm
Old 06-25-2010 | 07:42 AM
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Yeah, I don't understand the use of 8an, it seems as though everybody else goes with 10an.
Old 06-25-2010 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Yeah, I don't understand the use of 8an, it seems as though everybody else goes with 10an.
I could use the extra room of having smaller lines, I plan on running the oil lines on the passenger side and I'm pretty strapped for room. I relocated the PS cooler over there plus my vac lines and charge piping is in there.
Old 06-25-2010 | 08:05 AM
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jeffie, i made a huge thread about racerpartswholesale.com and my oil cooler setup.

best price and awsome parts. I used an earl's cooler instead of their cooler but their coolers are awsome too. The whole thing is just around 200$ for a thermostat controlled oil cooler (24 row). can't really beat that.

i'll have pics of my setup soon. took me about 20 minutes to install. Easiest part of switching over to my turbo kit.
Old 06-25-2010 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by binder
jeffie, i made a huge thread about racerpartswholesale.com and my oil cooler setup.

best price and awsome parts. I used an earl's cooler instead of their cooler but their coolers are awsome too. The whole thing is just around 200$ for a thermostat controlled oil cooler (24 row). can't really beat that.

i'll have pics of my setup soon. took me about 20 minutes to install. Easiest part of switching over to my turbo kit.
Would love to see the pictures.

I also need to look into shift ***** (thinking about the nismo titanium one) best bang for the buck brakes, and maybe a clutch/flywheel

I also want some seats but its not really needed.
Old 06-25-2010 | 08:17 AM
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also, i use 8an lines.

i use the twist tight kind of ease of building the lines. all things point to 8an lines are plenty of flow so i'm not worried about that.

mahybe for a strictly track car i would use 10an lines but i also wouldn't use a thermostat controlled plate either. For a primarily street and sometimes drag car the 8an with thermo will be perfect.
Old 06-25-2010 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by binder
also, i use 8an lines.

i use the twist tight kind of ease of building the lines. all things point to 8an lines are plenty of flow so i'm not worried about that.

mahybe for a strictly track car i would use 10an lines but i also wouldn't use a thermostat controlled plate either. For a primarily street and sometimes drag car the 8an with thermo will be perfect.
I don't even think it would matter, my guess is 8AN ID hose is the same as the ID of the nipple coming off of the oil filter spacer. it's under pressure so it I would assume wouldn't matter as long as you're not reducing the size smaller then the inlet/outlets.
Old 06-25-2010 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cdoxp800
You Baller..
I love whoring that picture out when I can...
Old 06-25-2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
my guess is 8AN ID hose is the same as the ID of the nipple coming off of the oil filter spacer. it's under pressure so it I would assume wouldn't matter as long as you're not reducing the size smaller then the inlet/outlets.
exactly my thoughts!
Old 06-25-2010 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
I love whoring that picture out when I can...
showoff
Old 06-25-2010 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
I don't even think it would matter, my guess is 8AN ID hose is the same as the ID of the nipple coming off of the oil filter spacer. it's under pressure so it I would assume wouldn't matter as long as you're not reducing the size smaller then the inlet/outlets.
The ID of AN10 hose and fittings is right around 1/2" (0.48"). The ID of the stud holding the oil filter is a hair over 1/2" so you have a good match there. The ID of an AN8 hose and fittings (0.39") will be about 1/8" smaller than AN10. While it doesn't look like much, if you do the math on the area, AN8 is about 34% smaller than AN10.
Old 06-26-2010 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
The ID of AN10 hose and fittings is right around 1/2" (0.48"). The ID of the stud holding the oil filter is a hair over 1/2" so you have a good match there. The ID of an AN8 hose and fittings (0.39") will be about 1/8" smaller than AN10. While it doesn't look like much, if you do the math on the area, AN8 is about 34% smaller than AN10.
did not know that. i thought 8an was 1/2" ID hose. Guess i was misinformed.
Old 06-26-2010 | 10:05 AM
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8AN hose is supposed to be 1/2"ID. The fittings don't follow that same rule. For "tube", 8AN is 1/2"OD with the ID being determined by the thickness of the tube wall. Apparently the fitting passages follow the "tube" rule.

Here are the fitting ID from the Aeroquip catalog

Dash S.A.E.
Size 37°
-----------
-03 .12
-04 .17
-05 .23
-06 .30
-08 .39
-10 .48
-12 .61
-16 .84
-20 1.08
-24 1.31
-32 1.78

AN8 vs AN10 may not be that big of an issue if the designer of the kits has done it properly. I suspect the sizing of the cooler/radiator is done based on fitting size, anticipated flow rate and other factors. Both setups may have the exact heat dissapation capability in the end.

Last edited by DavesZ#3; 06-26-2010 at 10:11 AM.
Old 06-26-2010 | 11:33 AM
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^^^Good info to have.
Old 06-26-2010 | 12:28 PM
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hey jeffie im using -8AN on my setup with the Mocal thermostatically controlled plate. i read somewhere that the -8 was a little better to keep pressure up. idk though really. im gonna have to relocate my cooler core over the winter anyway so i may switch to -10 if i find compelling reason to.

fwiw im using a kit that i pieced together. Mocal plate with an Earls core and just push on fittings instead of braided stainless. i will probably switch to nylon braided over the winter.
Old 06-26-2010 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bellaco
i read somewhere that the -8 was a little better to keep pressure up.
.
That has to be an urban myth. switching to a larger line shouldn't change pressure since the oil has to ultimately still travel through the oil filter nipple then the passages back on the block. If those don't change size then there will still be those restriction points. Running larger lines between the 2 will only keep from having any further impeded flow.

like putting a 4" hose over a 2" hole....same restriction as a 2" pipe over a 2" hole when the backpressure is checked since they have to pass the substance through the same sized opening. Now granted there are some slight marginal differences when you get down to the physics level but for all intents and purposes it's neglegible.
Old 06-26-2010 | 02:55 PM
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thanks binder good to know. i guess i wil be switching to -10 when i move everything this winter after all.
Old 06-26-2010 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bellaco
thanks binder good to know. i guess i wil be switching to -10 when i move everything this winter after all.
ya, with the new info given to me above about the fittings being smaller ID than the 8an line then i definitely would say 10an is the way to go since it more closely matches the ID of the filter nipple.
Old 07-01-2010 | 07:18 AM
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This guy has links to each item needed.

http://www.kohlercreated.com/blog/?p=3173


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