Anyone-
Has anyone figured out any tricks to remove the crank pulley from the 5 A/T? I've been trying for the last hour but can't do anything to keep the engine from rotating so obviously I can't remove the bolt. Any ideas??? I posted similar last week, but no one gave an answer to that part...THANKS!!
TB

 

Try to put it in drive or another gear, if not you might have to remove the radiator and use an impact. the impact will get the bolt off for sure.

 

Putting it into gear won't help. Because on a Auto when you are in park the Torque Conveter can still spin. A "parking pin" is what holds the car in place when in park, Not the Motor.

Try finding an Access Panel to the Torque Convert in the tranny. Once you remove that cover place a wedge in the teeth of the starter gear. That way the TC can't rotate, thus the motor can't rotate. The Torque converter will look like a round ballon, with a ring of gears around it. A pry bar or screw driver should get the job done.

IF this isn't possible, you will have to resort to a Impact Gun.


EA

 

I don't hink there is an 'access panel' for the t/c. My tranny had to come out to get tot he t/c. Must be the same on the 350z's.

Gurgen

 

Cool. I'll try that idea. My baby's up on my ramps (another biatch story getting it up there ANYWAY, another time) Thanks for the quick info, I'm gonna go give it a try and I'll post back later if it worked out!
To the garage I go!
TB

 

Well, searched and searched. Can't find an access point to anything- Starter looks enclosed, T/C looks enclosed, etc. Guess an impact gun and a friends help will be required. Thanks though-
TB

 

remove the starter and wedge the ring gear like SVTkid said if the impact gun doesn't do it. It's a pain but will work.

 

Well, thanks to all for the info. Here's how I finally got it off...Got a neighbor to hold a strap wrench from the top on the larger portion of the stock pulley and I held one on the smaller section of the pulley from the bottom and then pulled with a 1/2 ratchet and a pipe as a breaker bar. New pulley went on much easier as I could torque it down with just my buddy holding the strap wrench from the top. Hope this helps out some of the other A/T people who might be considering this mod. Haven't driven it yet, but look forward to trying tomorrow.
TB

 

You were able to torque it on properly like that? On my 6MT, I had it on ramps in 6 gear with someone standing on the brake while I double leg pressed a 3/4 breaker bar to torque it on. The car still wanted to roll off the ramps against all that force resistance. I even snapped a 3/8s breaker bar. Is your neighbor The Incredible Hulk?

 

Hmmm, I dunno. Maybe I read something in the instructions wrong- Initial torque is only 25-36 ftlbs, then crank it to the next mark on the bolt. I'm guessing total torque is only around 45 lbs. But please, if I did something wrong, let me know now so I don't "F" up my engine-

 

I could have read it wrong, but I thought secondary torque setting was about 3/4 turn more than primary torque setting.

 

Ok, well thanks for the heads up. Think I need to reread the instructions again unless someone else out there can clarify and knows for sure- Anyone?

 

Something else just struck me as odd...Why would they specify an intial torque, then tell you to turn to the next mark? Why not just specify a higher initial torque? Maybe I'm just confused Can any experts out there enlighten me? TIA
TB

 

I the initial torque is just to align the pulley flush on the crank. The secondary torque is to properly seat it, I think.

 

Any updates?

 

Not really too much. I'm still waiting for my ECU to hopefully re-calibrate (I guess that's what it does...) But drove it for the first time today. It may be my imagination, but it doesn't really seem a whole lot quicker, it just seems to rev quicker through the tach numbers. All in all, I'm not disapointed in the mod, although it was pretty tough to finally get it done. Hope this helps ya out-
TB

 

Thanks, I think this mod is next