I got stillen headers and cats to go with the stillen true dual i got

header installs are obviously a pain in the *** and most people say theyll never do it again without pulling the engine. is it worth it to pull the engine
for me?

ive been doing constant research on everything else i need to do before my tune and came up with

stainless steel clutch line and motul rbf600 to handle the heat of the headers
dot 4 brake fluid to go with ss brake lines and slotted/drilled rotors
stance gr+ coilovers with kinetix camber,toe,upper control arms
motordyne 5/16th spacer,new spark plugs ,injen short ram
quaife diff with 4.083 gears and spl solid bushings
motordyne sway bars with spl endlinks front and rear
nismo waterpump w/ nismo radiator cap
utec
most parts are here some are shipping over right now

should i pull my engine to install the headers since i will have to flush my coolant/clutch and brake fluid, change spark and plenum spacer,

i figure im swapping from a tein stock style suspension set up to
true coilovers with new sways, endlinks and bushings while doing my diff/gearing swap so i should either do them all one at a time while its on the car or put it on a lift at my work and pull the engine, swap to coilovers and install the rear end drivetrain/suspension all in one sitting.

ive also got a rattle noise on the clutch when my foots on the clutch and a different rattle when the clutch is out and car is nuetral that i would like to take car of, car has 40k, also wondering if i should drop in a clutch fywheel combo while im at it -clutch recommendations for my set up?

Im gonna end up at a n/a bolt on tuned car with true coilover suspension that i can track and adjust for show/daily driving/track

if i pull my engine what else should i be considering?
new engine/transmission mounts to accomodate stiff suspension and diff bushings?
clucth flywheel time? - "perfectly happy with stock clutch,but bearings are noisey"

dont waste my time pulling engine just do it on the car?

 

Bon't bother pulling your eng, headers only take about 5 hours to install with the eng in the car. Now i would upgrade to a light flywheel while your doing your build.

 

also, heat rape the headers. I hear that helps with the gains and so on. It also keeps things cooler.

 

isnt header wrap bad? because it traps the heat and dosent allow venting at all. and eventually it causes headers to crack. (from stuff i read online) i though your supse to get it jet hot coated or something?

 

yes.

 

Well, one of the points of heat wrapping is not only to keep the underhood temps down, but to keep as much of that heat in the exhaust as possible. And yes, heat wrapping will certainly cause the pipes to rot over time. Aren't the stillen headers coated anyway?

 

I've never had a problem with any heat wrap. Im sure there are always cases of stuff going wrong like everything in life but from myself or any of my local friends that have heat wrap on there have been no issues. hell, my cousin's 67 camaro headers were heat wrapped 11 years ago and they are sitll going strong.

i know everyone is saying don't pull the engine, but if you are going to swap the clutch, pulling the engine might be the best thing. Engine and trans will come out as 1 unit which makes life simple.

5 hrs for headers isn't bad. It takes me only a couple hours to have the engine out. You're looking at a full day, maybe day and a half to do all that with the engine out. It's personal preference really.

 

There is no reason at all to wrap headers these days. And a 5-hour install is a bit on the optimistic side - guy in my club installed my Crawfords at the dealer where he works and it was pretty much an all day project, although it was his first time dealing with Crawfords, which are one of the more difficult installs due to design and tight space. FYI - Doug at Crawford says No to heat wrap too

 

You'd be better off with a ceramic coating.

 

Okay im pulling that **** if it only takes a couple hours to pull the engine out

i just started hearing a rackety chatter during decell in 1rst and 2nd gear today,literally 30 min ago.
i need a new clutch anyways so its clutch flywheel time

i have to change to a ss clutch line for the heat of headers and to go
with a high performance clutch so that works together nicely.

ive got the ceramic headers and i called stillen and they told me not to wrap them due to them getting too hot.... so fck the header wrap

jim wolf clutch flywheel combo going to be balanced with the 4.083 gears?
should i go for a less agressive flywheel like nismo? or jwt?
better opinion on clutch flywheel combo for 4.083 gears for someone
who enjoys driving harshly and downshifting constantly?

i hear a small knockin/taptacktack noise when in nuetral and a chatter
when decellerating in firt on my stock clutch, should i have to buy anything else for the clutch package like friction plate, throwout bearings,etc. ?

Im going to be draining coolant for nismo thermostat and i dont know any idea if i will benefit from any certian type of coolant, ideas?

 

Maybe a good steel lightweight flywheel,/ clutch combo instead of jwt's aluminum one?

 

quick answer to the op's question.. NO.. no reason to take the engine out... If it aint broke, don't fix it

Also the header wrap will disintigrate before anything happens with the piping.

 

is this guy serious?

im upgrading not repairing.

im pulling the engine to save time because doing the list of mods im doing
will basically cover most of the steps of pulling the engine

changing headers/adding nismo thermostat requires flushing coolant

adding 5/16ths spacer requires pulling the entire plenum off which is necessary when pulling the engine

my stock clutch is super noisy now and i have to be under there to change clutch line due to heat from headers, so thats easiar when exhaust is off
and engine is out
and gives me oppurtunity to add transmission mount to coincide with my solid diff bushings and quaife lsd/4.083 gears

My clutch fluid needs to be changed to dot 4-flushing of clutch fluid should be easiar when taking out engine if not required
My brake fluid will benefit if i change it to dot 4 since i have ss brake lines

and my ground wire kit from stillen is fcking rusting so i might as well bolt up new ground wires while i take off the old ones to pull hte engine

Im crossing over from a z with intake,exhaust and rims to something
that i feel will be faster and more responsive/ louder

immediatly after this im going to z car garage and getting a utec tune
so its all dialed in

then getting real coilovers in the near near future