The clutch release lever on my trans is not fully depressing my slave cylinder.

Usually the lever is all the way to the left (towards the front of the car) and it has fully depress the slave cylinder.


However on my car, the lever is already halfway through its motion. So when I bolt on the slave cylinder, it is out of range or motion. With no feedback on the slave cylinder, it simply wont bleed correctly. Its like i keep on getting air in the system.


I also installed a new SS line, and I am assuming the slave and master our in working order, because before I pulled the transmission they were both working. However I won't rule them out.

 

Probably just needs a good bleed. Make sure you fully compress the slave when you have the bleed port open. That makes it so much faster to bleed.

 

See that is the thing, my pivot lever, is not fully compressing my slave. It is just touching it.

Can I hold the lever down while I bleed it?

 

I would also like to mention that I also installed a ss clutch line and also swap in cd009 transmission. Using the fork that came with tranny.

 

you need to shoot fluid thru the slave bleeder valve, then pump and bleed. do this a few times. it works great, have had to do it on a few z's i installed stainless lines on.

 

Well, no luck, I decide to upgrade to a Wilwood reservoir and will attempt to power bleed with a Motive, as described in the DIY tech thread. Will be here by end of week,

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But as for now, here is a picture, notice how the fork starts in the middle, and the clutch is depress alittle already. My concern is, does the slave cylinder still have enough (range) to push the lever out more?

 

You said you are using the fork that came with the tranny, are you using the pivot ball that came with it too? There are two diff. lengths of pivot *****... may help.

 

I have this and clutch bleed takes NO TIME AT ALL...compared to manually doing this - best damn $$ you can spend to save some time..

 

Hm that's a good question. Everything came pre-assembled but my tranny was used, so i assumed everything went along together. Can you give me info on the different pivot *****?



Got my Motive bleeder today, waiting on my Wilwood reservoir.

 

Hmm, i don't have measurments. I believe it has a stamped steel fork and a longer ball. where as the 04-05 has a cast iron fork and a shorter ball.

Someone correct me if i'm a little off here.

 

The motive works with the OEM res if you have an extra set of hands to hold it in place.

 

Wanted to give everyone an update, i finally got the parts in after a long hassle with my local distributor. I got a Wilwood representative contact through Jason, and was able to get the parts directly. Thanks again to everyone I been pm'ing and also the replies.


But after I install everything, it took me 2-4 MINUTES TO BLEED MY CLUTCH.

Before, I was fooling around for hours with TWO people with no success.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO ANYONE!

 

You're basically in the same situation I am.
I am glad this hydraulic system is not just kicking my ***.
Basically, the air is still in the system.
I have yet to clear the air from the system because I wanted to go online to review any TSB's related and went as far as calling the dealer. It seems like there's air within your clutch master cylinder.
Close the slave cylinder bc you know its good and bleed correctly. However, there's air in the master cylinder and take the top and pump it SLOWLY so you don't make a mess with the cap off. That should allow that air from that part of the system come out.
Try that, let me know if it helps. Or let me know what you did to correct the issue.

 

Was it because there was air within the Master Cylinder?
I noticed that the slave cylinder is super easy to bleed. But the lame clutch pedal is still acting retarted and not springing back up. Is that why you used that technique?