Mescaline

I used the search for clutch on the forum so sorry if this has been posted cause I'm sure it has I just can't find it :/.

Well my clutch is fully out now my question is now what? Do I go OEM or Do I go stage 2 stage 3 or what? OEM compared to a racing clutch are practically equivalent. Although I know nothing about the clutch at all. What am I going to benefit from if I do go with a stage 2 or 3?

In specifics throw some brands at me that I should go with.

Also whats a good price to have the clutch replaced?

Thank you all!

zer0cool

iTrader: (8)

act HD pressure plate (2600)
act street disc
act streetlite flywheel
oem throw out bearing

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

If you want a cheap solution, I have a stock clutch (and flywheel) taken from my Z with 58k miles on it.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the term "stage" is meaningless except when talking about 1 specific brand...it's a relative term

what you should get depends primarily on

1. your intended use (current and future mods)
2. your budget
3. the year of your car

(not in that order necessarily)

there are lots of good options out there. Answering the above 3 honestly makes it easier to get to the core choices you should consider

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

If your modding your car its a good time for upgraded flywheel and clutch. If not, stock is great.

Mescaline

Someone explain to me if this is a bad idea or not. I'm not wanting my vehicle to be a hardcore racer I use it for work but want something a bit better then the OEM.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/eCM-S...ht_3370wt_1167

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

how many miles did you get out of your stock clutch? the OEM clutch works well, and is very affordable

that ebay clutch - who knows. First, it's a puck style, so will be grabbier than stock. Second, I don't like how they make their company name sound like one of the aftermarket brands "Clutchmaster vs Clustmasters" and I don't like how they paint their pressure plates yellow, mimicing ACT. Seems a surefire way to confuse unsuspecting people who think they are buying something that they really aren't

AcidJake75

iTrader: (64)

do the JWT clutch and fly for 800 bucks or whatever - you will be good after that..

winchman

How bad is your original pressure plate and flywheel? Can the contact surfaces be refinished? Maybe you can get by with just putting in a new disc.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you cannot resurface the 350Z flywheel

winchman

"you cannot resurface the 350Z flywheel"

Why is that? Obviously it was ground to some specification of flatness and smoothness during manufacturing. I wouldn't think it would be so thin that you couldn't remove several thousandths to clean it up.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

because of it's dual mass design, it is not one piece...should be specified in the FSM as well that once worn, it needs to be replaced

dirtbikr

You're not supposed to resurface them, but any machine shop worth their weight can do it without a problem. Helped a friend's with his about 10k miles ago and has been fine since.

winchman

I've never seen a 350Z flywheel, and I couldn't find a picture that shows much detail of the dual mass flywheel. How are the parts arranged and held in place? What's used to transmit torque between them?

I'd be inclined to agree with dirtbikr about getting them machined, but there may be a good reason Nissan doesn't want the part rebuilt (other than the profit of selling parts at huge markups, of course).

The service manual calls for checking the runout, but doesn't call for replacement when the clutch is replaced. It does say to replace the pressure plate and disc together, though.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

This is a 6-puck clutch. It will grab and hold hard. Not very street friendly.

Mescaline

I thought stage 2 was a middle between a racing clutch and street clutch. I want something better then OEM although still street friendly. exedy looks nice on there stage 2 is this a bad choice? Or is this a puck too? Uhg. I feel like a noob cause I am thanks for the help guys.

http://www.frsport.com/Exedy-Stage-2...VQ_p_3085.html

jblz

iTrader: (15)

I have an HR and went with an Exedy clutch and flywheel combo from Z1auto.com (who has replied to several posts above).

This was a stage 1 so it is very tolerant to daily driving. However it is also lighter and grabs better then OEM. I chose Exedy because their parent company (Daikin) also makes the OEM clutches for Nissan. I figured if they are a reliable enough company to make OEM and I buy a stage 1 out of their "racing division/company" then that's just what I want (which sounds like it is pretty close to what you want), above OEM but not too crazy. I'm happy with it and have about 4k on it.

I call Z1 almost every time I do a major mod with questions, and whether I buy something from them or not, they are always very helpful and knowledgeable.

They are right when they say to upgrade the flywheel at the same time. And stay away from the Ebay stuff. The tranny isn't something you want to have to be dropping every 10K miles. Do it right, the first time around.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

"staged" clutches are a marketing term...each brand will have it's own unique qualities to it.

the Exedy stage 2 is again, a puck style...and has very few pucks. Less pucks means less inertia - so more aggressive launches, less street friendly, but quicker engagement. Good for track use or drag use, not what I'd personally suggest for a street car.

again, you're going about this a bit backwards. Refer to my questions in post 4

Mescaline

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...Q5fAccessories

What about this? Cheap exedy and seems legit?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

it's the exact same clutch your car came with