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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Default 350z Clutch Advise, Please Help

I have a 350z 2004 with about 114k miles on my car, and a few days ago, the clutch and flywheel completely gave out. I then brought it into a transmission specialist to repair.

Before having him fix the car, I told him that i was aware that the newer 350z's had a softer cluth and i liked him stiff.

1. Went to pick up the car on Sat, drove it for 30 miles and brought it back to the auto repare guy, still smelled burning, the clutch peddle was making chirping sounds and 5th gear was out of place, about a .25 inch inward.

2. Picked up my car again, tonight, drove it for about 30 miles again, still smell massive burning smell, 6th gear is extermely hard to get into, and all the gears seem to one off. Like 2nd gear starts like first, 3rd acts kind of like 2nd etc. Also the clutch peddle through both times is now much softer than before.

Any adivse on whats wrong and how should i deal with the repair guy in the morning?

thanks
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonkimberson
I have a 350z 2004 with about 114k miles on my car, and a few days ago, the clutch and flywheel completely gave out. I then brought it into a transmission specialist to repair.

Before having him fix the car, I told him that i was aware that the newer z's had a softer cluth and i liked him stiff.

1. Went to pick up the car on Sat, drove it for 30 miles and brought it back to the auto repare guy, still smelled burning, the clutch peddle was making chirping sounds and 5th gear was out of place, about a .25 inch inward.

2. Picked up my car again, tonight, drove it for about 30 miles again, still smell massive burning smell, 6th gear is extermely hard to get into, and all the gears seem to one off. Like 2nd gear starts like first, 3rd acts kind of like 2nd etc. Also the clutch peddle through both times is now much softer than before.

Any adivse on whats wrong and how should i deal with the repair guy in the morning?

thanks
sounds like he did not know what he was doing. probably has the clutch pedal adjusted to much and a chance he bent the shifter internally if he was not careful with pulling the tranny out or putting it back in. i always take the shifter off. but ask him to adjust the inside of the master slave some under the dash to see if that helps with the smell.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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is the burning smell normal? and is there anything that can be done about the soft peddle?
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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no the burning smell is not normal. what kind of clutch/flywheel combo did you go with? if he adjusted to much pedal then it would seem the clutch is staying engaged while you are driving which is burning the clutch up. usually most clutches tighten up a bit after a smooth break in. just depends on which one you went with.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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i got the OEM clutch and flywheel, the job cost about 2k
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kramykram
if he adjusted to much pedal then it would seem the clutch is staying engaged while you are driving which is burning the clutch up.
In correct terminology, the clutch is engaged when the pedal is up. The pedal is used to disengage the clutch to permit shifting gears and idling.

The clutch must be adjusted so there is a little clearance between the release bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate assembly when the pedal is up. If that adjustment isn't correct, the throwout bearing will wear out prematurely and the clutch disc may slip when lots of torque is being transmitted.


Originally Posted by kramykram
usually most clutches tighten up a bit after a smooth break in. just depends on which one you went with.
That's correct. High spots will wear off quickly, and the engagement point will move up a little. The feel of the pedal (pressure required to push it to the floor and free play at the top) shouldn't change, though.

Last edited by winchman; Nov 29, 2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 03:25 AM
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What was done to the car? Clutch and flywheel replaced?
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 04:24 AM
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wow....2k....

damn, i fell crazy now for doing clutch installs for 500 bucks for locals and splitting it with Acidjake75....

dude, he screwed it up...take it back, read all the online 350z clutch install "how to's".......educate yourself on exactly how its supposed to be done..

print out the pages, take it to him, STAND there and make sure your 2k job is done RIGHT!!!

odds are your NEW clutch is already gone now or very very worn in..


-J
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
odds are your NEW clutch is already gone now or very very worn in..


-J
That is what I am thinking. The odor is the new friction surface burning against the flywheel.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 07:48 AM
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clutch and flywheel replacement
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
wow....2k....

damn, i fell crazy now for doing clutch installs for 500 bucks for locals and splitting it with Acidjake75....

dude, he screwed it up...take it back, read all the online 350z clutch install "how to's".......educate yourself on exactly how its supposed to be done..

print out the pages, take it to him, STAND there and make sure your 2k job is done RIGHT!!!

odds are your NEW clutch is already gone now or very very worn in..


-J
lol damn i only charge 250 to do a clutch change. i usually do them in about 2.5 hours. so i feel the charge is worthy. lol
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by winchman
In correct terminology, the clutch is engaged when the pedal is up. The pedal is used to disengage the clutch to permit shifting gears and idling.

The clutch must be adjusted so there is a little clearance between the release bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate assembly when the pedal is up. If that adjustment isn't correct, the throwout bearing will wear out prematurely and the clutch disc may slip when lots of torque is being transmitted.




That's correct. High spots will wear off quickly, and the engagement point will move up a little. The feel of the pedal (pressure required to push it to the floor and free play at the top) shouldn't change, though.
thanks for wording that for me correctly i was half asleep.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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damn i installed my whole clutch w no mechanical experience and didnt have this prob 2gs wtf!!! he may not have lined the shifter up proper, i remember everyone telling me be very careful when putting your tranny back in can move the shifter and cause problems sucks man...bring that ish back and grab a jwt combo have a good shop put in shouldnt be over 500 I checked everywhere jwt around 900 you saved 600 and have a better streetable clutch
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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n btw the a clutch job on the 350 is easy as hell lots of room if you have a lift hardest part was cutting off the frozen nuts to exhust then putting the tranny back in.

did it with a regular jack and some muscle lol no air tools and floor jacks would deff pay the 500 lol after said and done
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonkimberson
i got the OEM clutch and flywheel, the job cost about 2k
this where you first got ripped without knowing it . . .
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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The price paid does seem high. I bet the OE flywheel was $8-900, plus another $500 for the OE clutch and $600 to install. I see how it happened.

Also, the clutch will become stiffer as it wears out. A new clutch is closer to the "snap over point" (aka the point where the clutch begins to release) and takes less effort then having to push through the spring to the snap over point. This is also the reason why your clutch pedal gets higher as it wears out.
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