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ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch

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Old 03-01-2011, 01:46 PM
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travis0260
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Default ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch

ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch review
The Car:
2006 base model 350z

Mods:
VLSD out of a touring model
K&N drop in filter
Stillen adjustable sway bars
PowerGrid sway bar adjustable end links
HR Y pipe
Unorthodox under drive crank pulley (1.45 lbs)

Recently added:
Exedy Stage 1 racing clutch
ACT StreetLite flywheel (16.9lbs) for the sake of the write-up I’m just going to call it 17lbs

Stock flywheel (28 lbs)
Stock crank pulley (4.7 lbs) Total (32.7 lbs)

Total weight savings off rotating assembly (14.35 lbs)

So I drive one of those 2006 oil consuming 350z’s. I’ve come to grips with my Z’s Mobil 1 diet. Other than the oil consuming issue I still really enjoy the car. From the factory it had good power, descent suspension, and good looks. I autocross the car on occasion and drive it fairly aggressively. In my opinion the cars naturally aspirated HP is fairly topped out from the factory, meaning the addition of intake, exhaust, headers, etc yield additional HP but not a significant amount for the dollar.
My plan was to add modifications that make a difference while still keeping some daily drivability. I took a chance with the under drive crank pulley and the flywheel. I knew they wouldn’t add HP per se but I heard good things about responsiveness related to dropping the rotating assembly weight. I was worried about drivability and chatter.

Exedy stage 1 clutch:
I don’t plan on adding forced induction or nitrous. I just want a little more clamping force with a stock like feel. The Exedy stage one racing clutch seems to do that well. It uses a stock sprung organic clutch disk with a more aggressive clutch pressure plate. The additional grip is great, I could probably add a nitrous kit or stage 1 supercharger without worrying about slippage. I believe it’s rated at 300-350 foot pounds of torque. The clutch pedal feel is slightly stiffer, but just slightly. To be honest I like the firmer feel. It’s not to grabby, some of the more aggressive clutch discs (puck) are very hard to slip. They seem to be like an on/off switch which makes the car hard to launch slowly. Because this kit uses a stock organic clutch disk it’s still very easy to engage smoothly.

ACT StreetLite flywheel:
I went with the StreetLite over the ProLite because of drivability. I had already dropped weight at the rotating assembly with the crank pulley and didn’t want to take it too far. The flywheel is steel, nothing to fancy. It’s a single mass flywheel so I could have it re-surfaced when I put the next clutch in. All of the single mass flywheels for the 350Z/G35 are prone to some degree of chatter. The stock flywheel is a heavy dual mass flywheel. Dual mass flywheels have two heavy masses that can move independently up what looks like about an inch. The two masses are sprung which helps to absorb vibration, reduce chatter, and smooth out engagement. The weight of the stock flywheel makes it easier to launch because of the inertia it generates.

Chatter:
The single mass flywheel does cause some chatter. What you’re hearing are gears rattling. The sound is no longer being dampened by stock flywheels weight and dual mass vibration conciliation properties. In my opinion it’s livable, I haven’t even noticed it lately. I’m not sure how the even lighter JWT and ACT ProLite flywheels contribute to chatter.

Weight:
It revs much faster and I honestly feel like that car accelerates harder. You can feel the car in relation to the gas pedal. For those of you still on stock flywheel you’re probably not even aware of the slightly sluggish responsiveness. A couple minutes behind the wheel of a Z with a lightweight flywheel and you’ll instantly be aware of how much better it can be. If you heal toe your down shift this is a necessary mod. It’s now much easier to blip the throttle to bring the revs up.

The downside to the weight reduction is drivability. The lightweight flywheel doesn’t carry the inertia of the stocker so you need to rev it a little higher before engaging the clutch. This makes the car a little easier to stall when the revs are low. I’m sure it will only take you a couple days to get used to but your chick probably won’t like driving your car anymore. I can also see this being an issue when trying to sell the car down the road. Your potential buyer may not be too savvy with performance clutch/flywheel driving.

Good stuff, it’s one of those mods you can actually feel.
Attached Thumbnails ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch-img_20110224_161153.jpg   ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch-img_20110224_161100.jpg   ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch-img_20110224_161042.jpg   ACT StreetLite flywheel and Exedy stage 1 racing clutch-img_20110224_161032.jpg  

Last edited by travis0260; 03-01-2011 at 01:48 PM. Reason: wording
Old 03-01-2011, 01:58 PM
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venmichaels
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damn nice write up! I just got my JWT clutch and flywheel installed, hoping it runs better than stock
Old 03-01-2011, 05:52 PM
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davidv
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Have to admit this is one of the coolest looking flywheels for the 2350Z.
Old 03-02-2011, 11:29 AM
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PolePosition
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I am looking to get the same combo as my stock setup is on the way out. Besides so called "driveability issues" do you see any other down sides to lightened flywheel?
What type of car application would suit this mod the best? Mainly, I want my car to be a canyon-carver, with an occasional drift run (just for fun)... I have been hearing that lighter flywheel is not a good drifting mod, as it does not hold the rpms (due to lower inertia I suppose).

Any input would be appreciated, thanks
Old 03-02-2011, 11:53 AM
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dmroberson
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Great write-up, OP.

I have the ACT ProLite flywheel, along with the ACT Heavy Duty Street Clutch, and I have no issues with "drivability" btw. IMO, it kinda sounds like you got stuck on the "reduced drivability" comment mentioned on ACT's website, as opposed to the "good drivability" comment about the streetlite flywheel. Again, not knocking what you wrote or anything, but the ProLite isn't so light that it causes any huge issues with drivability. Just adding my

Last edited by dmroberson; 03-02-2011 at 12:10 PM.
Old 03-02-2011, 02:48 PM
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travis0260
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Originally Posted by dmroberson
Great write-up, OP.

I have the ACT ProLite flywheel, along with the ACT Heavy Duty Street Clutch, and I have no issues with "drivability" btw. IMO, it kinda sounds like you got stuck on the "reduced drivability" comment mentioned on ACT's website, as opposed to the "good drivability" comment about the streetlite flywheel. Again, not knocking what you wrote or anything, but the ProLite isn't so light that it causes any huge issues with drivability. Just adding my
I’m totally with you on this and maybe I should have worded it a little differently. The car isn’t hard to drive now that the rotating mass has been lightened. It’s simply a different feel that takes about two days to get used to. Now I’m used to the feel and would probably feel awkward behind the wheel of a Z with a stock flywheel.
As far as drifting setup I’m really not sure. Because of the greater feel and response of the lightweight flywheel and performance clutch I’m assuming it makes the car easier to drift. My setup is for maximum stick and the only time I drift is when I’m driving the car too aggressively around the autoX. This hurts my times so I do my best to keep all four on the ground whenever possible. I’d probably jump on the drift forum and find out what those guys run.
Old 03-02-2011, 02:52 PM
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dmroberson
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Originally Posted by travis0260
I’m totally with you on this and maybe I should have worded it a little differently. The car isn’t hard to drive now that the rotating mass has been lightened. It’s simply a different feel that takes about two days to get used to. Now I’m used to the feel and would probably feel awkward behind the wheel of a Z with a stock flywheel.
As far as drifting setup I’m really not sure. Because of the greater feel and response of the lightweight flywheel and performance clutch I’m assuming it makes the car easier to drift. My setup is for maximum stick and the only time I drift is when I’m driving the car too aggressively around the autoX. This hurts my times so I do my best to keep all four on the ground whenever possible. I’d probably jump on the drift forum and find out what those guys run.
Cool. sounds good. Like I said, I wasn't knocking you or anything. Really was a good write up. Lots of good, useful information. Just tried to be a little helpful. Sometimes it gets kinda cut-throat on here, if someone words something wrong lol.
Old 11-27-2011, 09:37 PM
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sibble
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Can these clutch upgrades last 70k+ if driven conservatively?
Old 11-28-2011, 07:36 AM
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dmroberson
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Originally Posted by sibble
Can these clutch upgrades last 70k+ if driven conservatively?
IIRC, my clutch was replaced at around 30~40K miles, and I'm at 104K now... so I've got over 60~70K on it so far, and it's holding strong.
Old 11-28-2011, 08:24 AM
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graffkid732
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Originally Posted by sibble
Can these clutch upgrades last 70k+ if driven conservatively?
Why wouldn't it be able to?
Old 06-16-2013, 10:19 PM
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Ryan Jhingoor
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Originally Posted by travis0260
So I drive one of those 2006 oil consuming 350z’s. I’ve come to grips with my Z’s Mobil 1 diet.
Have you read the bulletin they put out on that situation? maybe have some sort of warranty still or third party warranty?
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