Seriously I'm done with this car, I cannot figure out what's wrong, Stupid dealer, Stupid mechanic.

Cliffs,

- VQ35DE, Auto .
- I can RedLine the car in Neutral.
- I can RedLine the car From a dead stop.
- But once the gas pedal is released while driving i cannot accelerate anymore.
- Check out this video,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2_cRQU-2dU

- The funny thing is, Car runs great using the cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I can rev to redline using the ACCEL/RES switch if i want.
- No error Codes, CEL or even stored.
- Reset Procedures were done ( I don't think it's the problem since it revs fine in neutral).

 

do you have aftermarket tail lights?

 

I'm using the OEM tails.

 

ill throw out some items to look into.. remember, this is a fly by wire car.. theres no linkage between your foot and that throttle plate.

ECU issue
BCM issue
Electronic throttle motor wouldnt seem suspect as it appears to operate well under certain conditions.

If it were me, id swap in a differnet ECU from a very similar model and year car and see what happens.

 

I did replace the Throttle Body with a new one with no luck.
The dealer said it's an ECU issue, Replaced the ECU & the same **** still happening , I paid 1800$ for the ECU .

 

oooh boy, no bueno. im out of ideas,.. dont want to wild goose chase ya.

 

$1800 for ECU? Wow, Courtesy has them for $700-$800. CLICK

 

Brake light switch, disconect it and try.

 

Yeah, if the car thinks the brakes are being pressed (brake sensor switch) it will not allow it to rev past 3K RPMs.

 

damn, that dealer is going to stick you with a part they diagnosed but did not fix the issue? tell them to take it back out since it is their screw up.

personally, i would throw a gas pedal at it(or pedal sensor, whatever these cars use) way before i would try a ecm.

the brake light switch is another thing to check, but since you can accel from a stop and your cruise works, then i would not waste much time with that.

 

A sticking brake light switch should cause the cruise control to disengage.

What do you have to do to get the accelerator pedal to work again after it quits? Do you have to stop the car and switch the engine off?

Do you have aftermarket wheels and/or an unusual combination of front/rear tires?

Any mods at all?

 

1800$ after 20% discount & they will not accept the fact that their diagnose was wrong & refund the money.

I took the tail light fuse out with no luck, I cannot shift while the brake light switch is removed ( It's an auto ).

But i can rev past 3K RPM using the cruise control switch on the steering wheel.

But why it revs fine in neutral, I mean if the potentiometer on the APPS is bad, It wouldn't rev in certain RPM range. But the case is, It will not rev ONLY after releasing the gas pedal.

My cruise control is working great.

I have to stop the car ( Speed is 0 ), I don't have to switch it off.

My mods has been on the car for along time with 0 issue, It's headers, test pipes & a catback.

 

Yes, I'm running 19 inches wheels, 275/35 in the rear & 245/35 in the front.

 

The only reason they didnt refund your money is because you let them.

 

Since you can drive with your cruise and raise RPM with the cruise, my next guess along with a couple othere would be pedal assembly (acually the throttle potentiometer )

This is where you need a friends car to troubleshoot with.

 

The only thing holding me back from buying a new pedal assembly is that it revs fine in certain circumstances like in neutral & from a dead stop, I can rev it through the whole powerband .

 

This was my first guess, you replace the pedal assembly yet?


BTW...there is no way the dealer should stick you with the $1800 repair/replacement that didn't work. Call Nissan directly and see if they can get you squared away on that.

 

The Pedal assembly was not changed, If you guys are sure it's the culprit, I will order one from courtesyparts & give it a shot .

I know that i got by the dealer, They claim that they got my approval to order the ECU & they cannot take it back cause may be it went bad also.
I will scan all the invoices & send a complaint to Nissan Consumer Affairs, I will see how it goes.

 

Tell nissan that you have right to sue for the service they failed to perform.
Under common law service contracts, Nissan did not perform a substantial performance and therefore, the contract (repair) is discharged in this case.

With regards to a contract requiring performance to the satisfaction of the other party, the courts are divided as to:

1. Whether the promisor must perform the contract to the satisfaction of the promisee; or
2. Whether it is sufficient that the performance would satisfy a reasonable person under the circumstances.

Obviously, both 1&2 did not meet the expectation, so you have every right.

Lastly, when you sue, you have 2 general outcomes.
1. Rescission and restitution (rescind contract and restore money)
2. Reformation/ Quasi-contract (change or create contract so that court can remedy the situation)

However, if you signed/agreed with on exculpatory releases, which is a clause that release a party from liability in the event of monetary or physical injury, no who is at fault, that's a whole different story....

Anyways, you should call Nissan (which I'm sure you did multiple times), and explain what I just said above, you should get your proper service. Shops usually back out when you throw in rights, legal terms and etc at them. I was able to get a refund from a repair shop who couldn't fix my headlight problem with a new fuse and a lightbulb.

Just my 2cents coming from business law class I took.

 

wait wut? you meant 275/35 rear 245/35 front right?