DIY thermostat delete
07-08-2012, 04:59 AM
#61
Hardest Setting
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MexiCali dodging potholes
Posts: 13,406
Received 130 Likes
on
102 Posts
^^^
All of which is correct. I removed my thermostat, cause after many attempts to bleed the car. I said **** it! Operational temps is a crucial part to keep in mind when driving it if it's a daily. I have a little read out for the temps, adding another painful 10 minutes to warm up is the only immediate downside. I'll report back if I break something as I have no shame to my modding, I won't disappear!
All of which is correct. I removed my thermostat, cause after many attempts to bleed the car. I said **** it! Operational temps is a crucial part to keep in mind when driving it if it's a daily. I have a little read out for the temps, adding another painful 10 minutes to warm up is the only immediate downside. I'll report back if I break something as I have no shame to my modding, I won't disappear!
07-14-2012, 08:37 PM
#62
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
^^^
All of which is correct. I removed my thermostat, cause after many attempts to bleed the car. I said **** it! Operational temps is a crucial part to keep in mind when driving it if it's a daily. I have a little read out for the temps, adding another painful 10 minutes to warm up is the only immediate downside. I'll report back if I break something as I have no shame to my modding, I won't disappear!
All of which is correct. I removed my thermostat, cause after many attempts to bleed the car. I said **** it! Operational temps is a crucial part to keep in mind when driving it if it's a daily. I have a little read out for the temps, adding another painful 10 minutes to warm up is the only immediate downside. I'll report back if I break something as I have no shame to my modding, I won't disappear!
I never bleed mine correctly no matter what i tried or how many hours I tried. 20 minutes with a spill free and I've never had a problem and could retain my thermostat.
07-15-2012, 12:13 PM
#64
New Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you take the thermostat out, the ECU will tell the engine to burn more fuel since it is trying to get to operating temperatures. I do not see any benefits taking the thermostat out unless you are driving in real hot temperatures.
07-15-2012, 02:38 PM
#65
Hardest Setting
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MexiCali dodging potholes
Posts: 13,406
Received 130 Likes
on
102 Posts
True!
That's why it's better to give the car a longer warm up, rather than turning it on and taking off. I think driving when not at operational temps to hurt the most. Since doing this 'mod' if to will I'm running cooler longer.
10 mins - 160
20 mins - 168 - 178
I think it's safe to move the car?
35-55mph(Hawaii speed limits) - 180 - 196
Spirited driving 3-4 mins rpms over 4k - highs of 208
This is in 89 degree weather here in paradise! All taken from a OBD II reader, on a 07 Z with 38k. I do not recommend this to a DD, or to someone who can't afford the extra warmup time.
That's why it's better to give the car a longer warm up, rather than turning it on and taking off. I think driving when not at operational temps to hurt the most. Since doing this 'mod' if to will I'm running cooler longer.
10 mins - 160
20 mins - 168 - 178
I think it's safe to move the car?
35-55mph(Hawaii speed limits) - 180 - 196
Spirited driving 3-4 mins rpms over 4k - highs of 208
This is in 89 degree weather here in paradise! All taken from a OBD II reader, on a 07 Z with 38k. I do not recommend this to a DD, or to someone who can't afford the extra warmup time.
07-17-2012, 09:03 PM
#66
"Hey guys I did a new mod to my car.
I took a **** in the intake and I get sooo much more *****!
I also pissed in the gas tank to increase octane, so I bumped my timing up 18 degrees and picked up 480AWHP!
That's right AWHP!
I converted my Z to awd by welding my diff shut and putting spares on my front tires.
Then I made my car 0tb (zero throttle body for you noobs) by pulling the top of my plenum off under wot JUST LIKE SGM DID FOR INTAKE TESTING!!!
I also removed my thermostat and added another oil cooler/warmer!
I'm an engineer! suck my swag! #SMS"
I took a **** in the intake and I get sooo much more *****!
I also pissed in the gas tank to increase octane, so I bumped my timing up 18 degrees and picked up 480AWHP!
That's right AWHP!
I converted my Z to awd by welding my diff shut and putting spares on my front tires.
Then I made my car 0tb (zero throttle body for you noobs) by pulling the top of my plenum off under wot JUST LIKE SGM DID FOR INTAKE TESTING!!!
I also removed my thermostat and added another oil cooler/warmer!
I'm an engineer! suck my swag! #SMS"
06-22-2013, 12:02 AM
#68
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Northeast, US
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Hey guys I did a new mod to my car.
I took a **** in the intake and I get sooo much more *****!
I also pissed in the gas tank to increase octane, so I bumped my timing up 18 degrees and picked up 480AWHP!
That's right AWHP!
I converted my Z to awd by welding my diff shut and putting spares on my front tires.
Then I made my car 0tb (zero throttle body for you noobs) by pulling the top of my plenum off under wot JUST LIKE SGM DID FOR INTAKE TESTING!!!
I also removed my thermostat and added another oil cooler/warmer!
I'm an engineer! suck my swag! #SMS"
I took a **** in the intake and I get sooo much more *****!
I also pissed in the gas tank to increase octane, so I bumped my timing up 18 degrees and picked up 480AWHP!
That's right AWHP!
I converted my Z to awd by welding my diff shut and putting spares on my front tires.
Then I made my car 0tb (zero throttle body for you noobs) by pulling the top of my plenum off under wot JUST LIKE SGM DID FOR INTAKE TESTING!!!
I also removed my thermostat and added another oil cooler/warmer!
I'm an engineer! suck my swag! #SMS"
01-19-2014, 07:03 PM
#69
Registered User
sludge is alot of things, is mostly oil thickened with carbon deposits and broken down oil so it dosnt actually lubricate anymore as well as metal shavings and various other things. mostly its broken down oil and oil oversaturated with carbon deposits though.
oil dosnt break down from low temps though it breaks down from excessively high temps, it gets so thin that it looses its lubricating propertys(please dont turn it into a "oil isnt thin when its hot arguemen"), anti shear, ect, when it cools back down it gels partly more it happens the more it gel's age is also a huge determining factor in gelling.
remember most of the parts coming into contact with coolant are receiving little to no contact with oil. for instance coolants main purpose is to cool the cylinder heads and top of the cylinders, the hottest parts of the engine. other parts are cooled by oil though crank, rods, pistons(on some cars like ours directly, others indirectly through oil on the wrist pin.) hence why you can have a 180 degree oil temp and 170 degree coolant temp.i would def say oil needs to be above 160 though but thats simply so its performing in the range of the thicker side(ie 30 in the 10w30) since 10 weight would be far to low. but keeping it under 180 will keep it thicker so it performs like a cold 30w vs 180 and above it will perform like a hot 30w and thus actually wind up being thinner.
oil dosnt break down from low temps though it breaks down from excessively high temps, it gets so thin that it looses its lubricating propertys(please dont turn it into a "oil isnt thin when its hot arguemen"), anti shear, ect, when it cools back down it gels partly more it happens the more it gel's age is also a huge determining factor in gelling.
remember most of the parts coming into contact with coolant are receiving little to no contact with oil. for instance coolants main purpose is to cool the cylinder heads and top of the cylinders, the hottest parts of the engine. other parts are cooled by oil though crank, rods, pistons(on some cars like ours directly, others indirectly through oil on the wrist pin.) hence why you can have a 180 degree oil temp and 170 degree coolant temp.i would def say oil needs to be above 160 though but thats simply so its performing in the range of the thicker side(ie 30 in the 10w30) since 10 weight would be far to low. but keeping it under 180 will keep it thicker so it performs like a cold 30w vs 180 and above it will perform like a hot 30w and thus actually wind up being thinner.
The engine needs to be at a certain temp due to clearances. The difference from 160*f to 195*f in terms of engine wear is staggering.
Oil needs to be above 212f to flash off excess fuel and moisture. Else you will clog your PCV valve, throttle body, and accumulate oil/fuel in your oil. Oil and water don't mix. Look under the valve cover of a sludger in winter.
And running oil too hot isn't necessarily going to cause sludge. It will zap the TBN. Running oil too cold is much, much worse. Oil is rated at 100*c. So that 10w30 oil, is a 30 weight at 212*f.
Completely nuts. You do realize you want the coolant hot, especially if you're boosted?
Last edited by Bigsyke; 01-19-2014 at 07:14 PM.
02-19-2017, 11:11 PM
#70
Registered User
Sorry for the 4 year thread bump as well I literally JUST got done driving my car around on the freeway and idled for like 35 minutes prior and afterwards. Ok so as I as well any anyone would think when the car overheats the tstat went out and/or pump. Well i later found out to burp the hell out of the cooling system which I did with the bleed valve and a Lisle Funnel both did not work. The car continued to overheat like no tomorrow. Replaced tstat, cars stopped overheating yet the water was boiling over(Lower hose cold af too).
So well I replaced the w/p... Overheated. Spend an hour bleeding, overheated, got on a hill, overheated, Leak test, passed. Jacked the car, overheated, checked for head gasket leaks at another shop, none found. So I came to the conclusion the tstat I bought was bugger because yes it was cheap THUS I checked both in boiling water and the stock and aftermarket opened but I wasn't having it anymore, I have to have my car running.
So I said the hell with it and I removed the tstat out the housing, installed housing back and used my funnel to fill and bleed any air left in. Temps got to the half way point and stopped, never went up. Car never boiled the water over, not even steam. It would fluctuate the temp gauge. Did more burping and squeezing on the system for the heat to blow HOT but it was still a PITA so I got it to like half way warm and will finish up tomorrow or some other time. It did kept sucking the water back to the core every time I squeezed the upper hose getting it warmer and warmer which tells me that some serious air pockets were holding that tstat closed(Previous owner did do a flush and probably didn't know you have to bleed these cars. Not like my old foxbody. Fill, warm up, top off, drive!
For those wondering, no it did not creep on temps at idle during driving nor coming to a light, it actually dropped temps dramatically(Which is the way I like it tbh). I live in Texas, I don't care about the so called "cold" and the last cold spell we had the car actually ran over half which was not gonna fly in my book. After about 10 miles of normal driving like I do and a few hard pulls, it burped and farted out the funnel like it had an upset stomach full of taco bell gas and temp gauge dropped to like quarter area of the temp gauge and stayed. Almost like I had put in a 160* tstat in. No, no codes came up, no, no weird exhaust smells or acting funny motor. Actually by doing what I did, actually fixed the heatsoak these cars normally suffer from. Forgot to mention I installed a stock straight from Nissan stealership too, same damn problem, I was getting pretty freakin mad lol... I can't wait to get a mishimoto radiator and some other fans. By the way speaking of fans, my fans were steady running on low, never got to the hot point on my tune (180*, that's where I set it to turn on high, 160 for low so it was between 10*) 208k on it and drives like it has 80k. No, nothing different with emissions as i've been seeing people ask about on other forums. Oil temps are perfect. Much better throttle response, no spastic throttle response when driving for a while like it once had.
Just a story of me running without my tstat and it's results. I used to run all of my cars either with a 160* or none. Never has any creeping.... For those wondering about not running a tstat. If you don't mind that your car will take slightly longer to warmer up(Like a additional 5 minutes) then I say to it. It won't hurt the car and this was also done on my wifes Versa, my maxima, my 300x's(2), All of my foxbodies even when I had a carb'd 408 street driven daily fox. Hell my fathers 2015 F150 and my only rx7 I once owned. So ignore the myths and bull about how bad it will run and overheating worse and all of that. Just do it if you have to(If you are simply having a hard time not overheating and can't get the car to burp out the air. Just don't forget to go ahead and get a Bleed funnel. Don't let one of them oreily or autozone punks try to sell you a flush kit and tell you it's the same. Oreilys tried that with me and I know that **** is not true.
So well I replaced the w/p... Overheated. Spend an hour bleeding, overheated, got on a hill, overheated, Leak test, passed. Jacked the car, overheated, checked for head gasket leaks at another shop, none found. So I came to the conclusion the tstat I bought was bugger because yes it was cheap THUS I checked both in boiling water and the stock and aftermarket opened but I wasn't having it anymore, I have to have my car running.
So I said the hell with it and I removed the tstat out the housing, installed housing back and used my funnel to fill and bleed any air left in. Temps got to the half way point and stopped, never went up. Car never boiled the water over, not even steam. It would fluctuate the temp gauge. Did more burping and squeezing on the system for the heat to blow HOT but it was still a PITA so I got it to like half way warm and will finish up tomorrow or some other time. It did kept sucking the water back to the core every time I squeezed the upper hose getting it warmer and warmer which tells me that some serious air pockets were holding that tstat closed(Previous owner did do a flush and probably didn't know you have to bleed these cars. Not like my old foxbody. Fill, warm up, top off, drive!
For those wondering, no it did not creep on temps at idle during driving nor coming to a light, it actually dropped temps dramatically(Which is the way I like it tbh). I live in Texas, I don't care about the so called "cold" and the last cold spell we had the car actually ran over half which was not gonna fly in my book. After about 10 miles of normal driving like I do and a few hard pulls, it burped and farted out the funnel like it had an upset stomach full of taco bell gas and temp gauge dropped to like quarter area of the temp gauge and stayed. Almost like I had put in a 160* tstat in. No, no codes came up, no, no weird exhaust smells or acting funny motor. Actually by doing what I did, actually fixed the heatsoak these cars normally suffer from. Forgot to mention I installed a stock straight from Nissan stealership too, same damn problem, I was getting pretty freakin mad lol... I can't wait to get a mishimoto radiator and some other fans. By the way speaking of fans, my fans were steady running on low, never got to the hot point on my tune (180*, that's where I set it to turn on high, 160 for low so it was between 10*) 208k on it and drives like it has 80k. No, nothing different with emissions as i've been seeing people ask about on other forums. Oil temps are perfect. Much better throttle response, no spastic throttle response when driving for a while like it once had.
Just a story of me running without my tstat and it's results. I used to run all of my cars either with a 160* or none. Never has any creeping.... For those wondering about not running a tstat. If you don't mind that your car will take slightly longer to warmer up(Like a additional 5 minutes) then I say to it. It won't hurt the car and this was also done on my wifes Versa, my maxima, my 300x's(2), All of my foxbodies even when I had a carb'd 408 street driven daily fox. Hell my fathers 2015 F150 and my only rx7 I once owned. So ignore the myths and bull about how bad it will run and overheating worse and all of that. Just do it if you have to(If you are simply having a hard time not overheating and can't get the car to burp out the air. Just don't forget to go ahead and get a Bleed funnel. Don't let one of them oreily or autozone punks try to sell you a flush kit and tell you it's the same. Oreilys tried that with me and I know that **** is not true.
Last edited by ZedFed; 02-19-2017 at 11:19 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2005, 350z, bypass, coolant, delete, diy, g35, g35drivercom, location, nissan, pictures, remove, roadster, thermestat, thermostat
