NFAC

Ok, I know their is a DIY for the DE engines but I cannot find any for the HR. For the people that have done the job at home, is their much of a difference? I found a DIY on the 370 forum and want to know would I be better off following those instructions or the ones posted on this site.

My clutch started slipping yesterday on the way home from work... Sucked big time. I'm going with JWT clutch and FW and new slave. People have said that the HR clutch install is much harder than the others, how so?

Any help would be nice. I'm going to try and tackle this next Friday.

Thanks

HRMoneyPit

In for answer. I'll be doing mine next year

patrickoneal

I don't see how it could be more difficult than the DE engines.

I haven't done a clutch job, but I did pull the transmission to replace the slave cylinder on my HR. Same as any other RWD car I've worked on.

1. Remove the shifter.
2. Unplug all the electrical connectors on the transmission.
3. Pull the driveshaft and plug the output shaft hole with a harbor freight plug to avoid losing transmission fluid(alternatively drain the fluid first).
4. Remove the starter motor and disconnect the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.
5. Remove the accessible(lower) transmission to engine bolts.
6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack and remove the transmission crossmember.
7. Drop the transmission down a bit to tilt the engine and transmission down to access the top bolts with a long extension(can't remember if I had to do that, but I think I did).
8. Remove the top bolts, level out the transmission and engine.
9. Slide the transmission jack rearward and the transmission should slide off of the engine.

Then you do your work, and put everything back together and realign the shifter(the instructions for that are in the factory service manual, takes 5 minutes). The hard part is bleeding the concentric slave cylinder. The aftermarket zspeed cylinder is supposed to be easier to bleed and more durable.

I think I had the transmission pulled out and reinstalled in less than 4 hours working on my back. And another 4-5 hours trying to bleed the slave cylinder.

NFAC

Man you couldn't have said it any better. Completely makes sense. I'm still waitin on all of my parts to show in the mail, but I should be starting this job next Friday.

Thanks for the help bro! I was just getting a little confused because I've read in numerous post that the HRs are a little different. Other than the Slave, everything should be the same.

Bleeding was pretty hard?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

new oem slave? if so, you will replace again... trust me

travlee

iTrader: (8)

if you went oem, bleeding will be mediocre and take some time.... if you went with the zspeed kit, it will be easy, like super easy

NFAC

I believe you. If this was a planned swap I would def upgrade to something better tHan OEM but I just can't fork out another $400-500. I just spent over $800 for the JWT combo plus slave. This is sort of an emergency.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

just be warned... it will go out again. i bought my car, 6 weeks down the road it went out... i complained (a lot) to dealership i bought it from, they replaced with oem... fast forward a yearish, and it went out again.

NFAC

Thanks for the heads up... As of right now there is nothing I can do about that. I put about 50k miles on my slave and it's still decent. Now with the clutch kit I'm pretty sure I'll be pulling the trans again. Life of a race car I guess. TBH as long as I can get at least 10k miles with the OEM slave I'm happy. I don't rape my car so I don't see why it can't. Plus there are people on this board that has that same exact setup and doing just fine. By then I'll have the money to blow on a upgraded slave and master.

HRMoneyPit

I'm thinking I'm just going to to the upgraded slave and mater with a stage 3 cause overkill is the name of my game


And incase I ever go FI I'll be ready. I don't plan on dropping the trans again

NFAC

The clutch install went as planned. Took me roughly 9 hours doing everything on my own. If I have some help and the right tools (flywheel holder, Pilot bearing puller) I could possibly bring the time down to 6 hours. The DIY threads helped a lot!!! I read it so many times, I memorized all of the steps. LOL... Not bad for my first time doing a clutch install.

The lightweight flywheel is great. It's not as loud as I thought it would be, but I can see why people would get annoyed of it. The pedal is noticeably firmer but not really that bad. I can't wait to romp on it to get the full feel of a better clutch.

All-N-All it wasn't really that bad. I'm pretty sure I'll be at it again in a year or so to replace that stupid slave cylinder....

HRMoneyPit

Come down to SoCal and do mine!


How do you go about breaking in a clutch without burning it?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

this is from exedy website, but i imagine all are about the same

"What is the recommended break-in period for high-performance sports clutches?
Break in period should be that of 500 miles of city type driving, double the break in period for highway driving. No aggressive driving. No hole shots or drag launches. Gear changes should be made at 4,000 RPM or less. No speed shifting."

NFAC

LOL bro my whole body is sore, especially my neck muscle from having to look up the whole time.

500 miles of easy driving should break it in just fine.

HRMoneyPit

I'll pay you lol I don't want to do mine

NFAC

U gotta just bite the bullet sometimes and dive right in...

I'm actually still surprised I pulled it off. We will see after 1000 miles. I opted in using blue loctite instead of red for the flywheel bolts. Hopefully everything holds up.

The only real issue i had was when I went to button up the tranny to the engine I sandwiched the tranny breather tube between the two and it cut in half. Luckily I had a few feet of silicone vacuum tubing leftover from last years turbo project. Worked like a charm.

HRMoneyPit

Nah. I think I'll end up paying a shop I can trust. Their are jobs I'd rather safe a week of headaches for. Clutch jobs and timing jobs