New G & Z Clutch Mod - Long Read
I'm interested. I just got a much stronger clutch and flywheel and while the holding strength is more than double that of stock my clutch pedal is not as heavy as stock. YEAH! But, the window of engagement is small like you said. In for pics and put me on the list.
(Yes, that's how many words your first post had.)I'm interested.
My Tilton clutch is borderline nightmare to drive to and from the track
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
NortherenG,
Hope its not to late to throw my name into the mix here to test that mod out.
I am currently having to swap motors on my 04 Z and since its coming out I am doing a lot of upgrade and would love to add your mod to the list.
Thanks in advance
-Zac
Hope its not to late to throw my name into the mix here to test that mod out.
I am currently having to swap motors on my 04 Z and since its coming out I am doing a lot of upgrade and would love to add your mod to the list.
Thanks in advance
-Zac
Just wondering if you plan to include alternate holes for mounting the pedal pivot point. I'm asking because my clutch requires me to run a clutch pedal stop so my actual clutch travel is very short already (just a plate and bolt mounted to the firewall the keeps the pedal from being overstroked). I was hoping to possibly "move" my clutch pedal travel closer to the firewall along with the benefits you described with extending the actual "slip" zone.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
INTIMAZY, The pivot point of the pedal will remain fixed in the new brackets just as it is with the factory one. What I’m including though is a new clevis for the clutch rod and 3 swappable adapter blocks that go between the pedal arm and the new clevis to modify the location of the fulcrum relative to the fixed pivot point.
To re-align the pedal to the master cylinder as the fulcrum point is raised the entire clutch bracket is lowered (in stages) by the same amount the fulcrum is raised. By doing this the geometry between the pedal, clevis and clutch rod remains unchanged. Otherwise as you raise the fulcrum from the stock position the clutch rod would be pushing on the master cylinder at an angle instead of straight in and out which is very bad for it.
Now to answer your real question the new pedal bracket has built in fully adjustable pedal stops to accomplish the same as your bolted plate.
However since the master cylinder isn't being pushed as far for the same given pedal stroke as before you gain back the use of your pedal range, widening the friction zone, yet still not over traveling your clutch throw out.
Hopefully that answers your question.
The higher the stage selected, the less your master cylinder actually moves for any given pedal travel.
For arguments sake say the stock setup pushed the master cylinder 1" in with a full 5" of pedal travel.
Now put in the stage 3 components and the master cylinder now only moves 0.5" for that same 5" of pedal travel.
In theory you've done half as much "work" over the same pedal distance traveled making the pedal much easier to push and giving finer control of its movement.
Now don't worry about the pedal softening as I still can't lift my foot faster then the clutch can spring back on its own barking the tires into second and third on command.
To re-align the pedal to the master cylinder as the fulcrum point is raised the entire clutch bracket is lowered (in stages) by the same amount the fulcrum is raised. By doing this the geometry between the pedal, clevis and clutch rod remains unchanged. Otherwise as you raise the fulcrum from the stock position the clutch rod would be pushing on the master cylinder at an angle instead of straight in and out which is very bad for it.
Now to answer your real question the new pedal bracket has built in fully adjustable pedal stops to accomplish the same as your bolted plate.
However since the master cylinder isn't being pushed as far for the same given pedal stroke as before you gain back the use of your pedal range, widening the friction zone, yet still not over traveling your clutch throw out.
Hopefully that answers your question.
The higher the stage selected, the less your master cylinder actually moves for any given pedal travel.
For arguments sake say the stock setup pushed the master cylinder 1" in with a full 5" of pedal travel.
Now put in the stage 3 components and the master cylinder now only moves 0.5" for that same 5" of pedal travel.
In theory you've done half as much "work" over the same pedal distance traveled making the pedal much easier to push and giving finer control of its movement.
Now don't worry about the pedal softening as I still can't lift my foot faster then the clutch can spring back on its own barking the tires into second and third on command.
