do you have tips on making this easier?

also, i'll be away from my garage and staying at my parents for the weekend when i pick this up. Am i going to need any of my special tools to do this or could i finish it at their place before driving home?

 

Jeff, no its really just a case of holding your breath just right as you get the clutch rod threads to start into the new fork. You line it up so the fork is straight with the rod, put a slight pressure against the treads and then with your other hand turn the clutch rod counter clockwise to engage the threads. Once you get it started with a thread or two it's dead nuts easy from there again. I also put a small counter sink on the back of the fork to help it stay lined up and guide the threads to start as easily as possible.

There are no special tools required, if you have a look at the install instruction PDF it has everything you need listed with pics.

With the tools and a work light laid out I can do the complete installation from start to finish (ready to test drive) in 13minutes flat. I'm also 5'10 and 275lbs but then again I've probably done it 100 times now during the development of the mod.


One thing I've been thinking of doing is a little youtube video of the hard parts to hopefully make things a little easier. I'm just not sure how best to get a video camera in there under the dash to show it all just yet though.

 

sweet, i'll have to go get the pdf. i think i saw it on the website, correct?

 

Yes, its available in the Installation & Tech section

 

installed this last night.

for a first time since putting in my os giken i can slip the clutch. This is an amazing install and my nasty on/off style clutch actually feels like a real clutch.

I will do a writeup on my experience when i have time over thanksgiving. Hands down nobody with a g/z should drive a manual trans without this ESPECIALLY the grabby twin disk and triple disk clutches. For those people with the huge single clutch disk type clutches this is needed because it reduces the pedal effort by quite a bit. My os giken makes my clutch softer than my honda accord clutch now.

 

Installing tomorrow. Will write up a review.

 

best clutch mod ever

/review

 

Any update on if this works on the 07-08 350Z's? If theyy don't then any updates on aking one for us HR guys?? I really want this on my car and all these positive reviews are only making me want it more

 

TurboTom, unfortunately the 07+ are a completely different bracket from the 03-06' ones. However I'll be starting work on kits for the 07'+ 350Z, G35, 370Z and G37's over the Christmas holidays and hopefully have something ready for product testing by mid January.

 

Great news, keep us updated

 

+1 I'm extremely interested. I have an 07, with a spec stage 1 clutch and flywheel. It was a pita to drive at first, I'm used to it now, but making it easier would be awesome.

 

Guys, I found the website for those interested. Just ordered mine today. Looks like they've done a revision on one of the brackets. http://www.rjmperformance.com/

 

Looks like no one created a review thread here. So I just created one Guys please post reviews in that thread!

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...l-bracket.html

 

Fed Ex says mine will be here tomorrow

 

Mine will be here next week. Classy where are you at in TX?

 

i was inspired and intrigued by this thread so i picked one up too. ill post up results when i get it installed... hopefully this coming weekend!

 

Just to let everyone know I'm now back with a shiny new vendor status and username here on My350Z. Ryan of RJM Performance, formerly NorthernG

If anyone has any questions on the product, what it does or how it works please feel free to ask away or you can visit the website www.RJMPerformance.com for more info on the AFP Clutch System Kits and the full installation writeup

 

NEWLY ADDED -> 07'-08' 350Z's 6MT are now supported.

UPDATED: We Currently Have A.F.P. Bracket System Kits to Fit:

03' - 07' Infiniti G35 Coupe 6MT all Trims (LH Drive)
03' - 06' Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT all Trims (LH Drive)
03' - 08' Nissan 350Z 6MT Models (LH Drive)

 

I get questions all the time about the A.F.P setting and how it works. Well in the simplest of terms the AFP setting is how much wider the engagement window is OVER Stock.

If you're at 0% AFP the slider is all the way down and the fulcrum length is equal to stock. Feels like the stock brackets with spring removed.

If you're at 50% AFP the slider is set right in the middle of it's travel and gives you about 50% wider engagement window over stock.

If you're at 75% AFP the slider is 3/4 of the way towards the top of its travel and gives about 75% wider engagement window over stock.

Above 80% it becomes hard to get full disengagement on stock and aftermarket clutches. This area is only recomended for those with really short disengagement clutches. For example those that require a stop plate be installed to limit pedal travel. For people with these clutches running above 80% can restore a more normal pedal travel and eliminate the need for a stop plate.

"Engagement Window" I define as the total amount of pedal travel from just finding the friction point to the point where the clutch is fully engaged and no longer slipping. As the engagement window gets wider, the friction point gets lower towards the floor. This is due to the fully locked point always remaining fixed near the top of the pedal travel as with any hydraulic clutch system.

Hope that helps explain the AFP settings and the talk of engagement window a little better for those who haven't already had a chance to install the product and play with these settings a little.