As the title states I just had my JWT clutch and flywheel installed with a new OE CSC.

I picked the car up and drove home from the Nissan dealership. Initially, crazy vibrations and cabin shutter which eventually went away. Drove on the HWY about 250km (150 miles) and tried not to shift too quickly or drive like an a$$hole, never went over 4500 rpm. I get that cement mixer/chatter even over 2000 rpms when accelerating, getting slight clutch burning smells too which is what really worries me.

Searched on here and Googled clutch break in burning smell and got varied results, Mustangs apparently get this burning as well during new break in but all other results found responses alerting the ops that its not normal.

Any thoughts? Any experiences?

 

Also, the reason why i went with the OE CSC was another forum member had one available for pretty cheap and my z has being sitting at the dealership for 4 weeks already. I didn't have to pay for the labour so I just wanted the damn thing done. I found some people on her with HRs stuck with the oe CSC and never had issues, so its not 100% failure rate with aftermarket clutches. Now im wondering if the CSC is the culprit or just normal with clutch break in.

 

I've never experienced nor have I heard of that problem. You shouldn't hear chatter at 2000rpms.

 

i have chatter at 2000rpm....

 

Burning smell is OK for first 100 miles. You are transferring some residue from the friction surface to the flywheel.

 

mine chatters only at idle, but i never had a burning smell, after install this thing was butter from day one.

 

I just got the fidanza 6 puck clutch and the fidanza flywheel(samw as jwt) and i too experience the chatter or "cement mixer" noise form 2k-3k and then stops. For the smell, mine smells like the clutch has been driven hard but not "burnt" I have smelled that and that smells BAD. The smell is a feint new rotor new pad kind of smell. BUT i have 180 miles now since the install and the smell is till there...

 

My hr headaches continue....

Just had an HD CSC installed and replaced the flywheel friction disc and a new pressure plate for the clitch, very ltittle rattle now but still having problems. As the car gets driven and warms up im finding a larger and larger dead spot towards the top of my clutch pedal travel. I have to reach around with my foot and pull the pedal the last 2" to get it to rest at the cruise control switch. Also finding the clutch engagement isn't "percise" as the car tends to jerk when getting started in first gear. Once the car is completely cooled down the pedal feels normal with no deadspot but same thing happens over agian when driven.

The garage agreed to re bleed my clutch but they said it took them only 10 minutes to do the first time where they just pumped the pedal till oil was only coming out the bleeder. From what i have
read this process is alot more time consuming. Also the resrvoir is completely full past the max fill point as i guess the lid caused the lvl to rise when it was capped, lots of oil. It was suggested that the master cylinder may be at fault.

Please give some suggestions.

 

try bleeding the clutch from the slave cylinder up, that gets all the air out.
also look into getting and RJM clutch pedal bracket. read our reviews, theres a thread around here. i have one and it made my competition sage 4 clutch drive better than stock

 

Mine didn't smell at all and was butter from day 1. In fact it shudders more now that it is broken in.

Looks like they didn't bleed it well enough... best I ever did was 30 minutes and it still had some air for the next 24 hours. Once it's bled 'enough' it will still take a day or two for the rest of the air to work out.