Best DD clutch and flywheel
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From: houston
Best DD clutch and flywheel
Just curious to know what a good clutch/flywheel combo to go for.
2003 Z enthusiast
N/A. maybe putting some test pipes, y pipe, plenum spacer etc.. nothing over 375 HP.. main goal is to get a stiffness in the clutch but nothing to serous as it is my DD..
any suggestions from anyone with current set up?
2003 Z enthusiast
N/A. maybe putting some test pipes, y pipe, plenum spacer etc.. nothing over 375 HP.. main goal is to get a stiffness in the clutch but nothing to serous as it is my DD..
any suggestions from anyone with current set up?
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From: houston
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From: houston
"if its not broke don't fix it"
(i abide by this)
even after your clutch goes out stick with oem. The stock clutch can handle your power just fine. Also, if you wish to invest into a "better" clutch, keep in mind that clutch life won't be the same.
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^go jwt. if your clutch goes out, youd need a new flywheel because the oem dual mass is a piece of sheet.
jwt is street friendly holds tons of power will free up some power because the flywheel doesnt weigh as much as a fat womans cankle and its a proven setup
jwt is street friendly holds tons of power will free up some power because the flywheel doesnt weigh as much as a fat womans cankle and its a proven setup
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From: houston
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From: houston
lol. sounds good to me! is this setup a clutch and flywheel together? through some research to my understanding, separate pieces are rated better than the flywheel and clutch together... sorry for my noobness i may be incorrect on all this..
Most people on here go with the JWT clutch and flywheel combo including myself. Its a great setup and its quality has been tested time and time again. IMO, you should just get this, you won't be disappointed.
Above: A clutch that looks like the OEM clutch will perform similar to the OEM clutch. Manufactures generally refer to this as Stage #1. You can also call to this clutch street friendly.
Above: Misinformed members often buy a clutch with a clamping capacity that exceeds their needs. Thinking is that if it can hold say, 400 pounds of torque, than it must be better. The result will often be an aggressive clutch that is a pain in *** to operate for a daily driver.
NOTE: If you are shopping for a flywheel and clutch, I recommend that you buy a flywheel and clutch from the same manufacture. They are designed and tested to work together.
Last edited by davidv; Dec 18, 2011 at 01:06 AM.
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From: houston
95,000 miles is definitely time for a new clutch.
Above: A clutch that looks like the OEM clutch will perform similar to the OEM clutch. Manufactures generally refer to this as Stage #1. You can also call to this clutch street friendly.
Above: Misinformed members often buy a clutch with a clamping capacity that exceeds their needs. Thinking is that if it can hold say, 400 pounds of torque, than it must be better. The result will often be an aggressive clutch that is a pain in *** to operate for a daily driver.
NOTE: If you are shopping for a flywheel and clutch, I recommend that you buy a flywheel and clutch from the same manufacture. They are designed and tested to work together.
Above: A clutch that looks like the OEM clutch will perform similar to the OEM clutch. Manufactures generally refer to this as Stage #1. You can also call to this clutch street friendly.
Above: Misinformed members often buy a clutch with a clamping capacity that exceeds their needs. Thinking is that if it can hold say, 400 pounds of torque, than it must be better. The result will often be an aggressive clutch that is a pain in *** to operate for a daily driver.
NOTE: If you are shopping for a flywheel and clutch, I recommend that you buy a flywheel and clutch from the same manufacture. They are designed and tested to work together.
95,000 miles is definitely time for a new clutch.
Above: A clutch that looks like the OEM clutch will perform similar to the OEM clutch. Manufactures generally refer to this as Stage #1. You can also call to this clutch street friendly.
Above: Misinformed members often buy a clutch with a clamping capacity that exceeds their needs. Thinking is that if it can hold say, 400 pounds of torque, than it must be better. The result will often be an aggressive clutch that is a pain in *** to operate for a daily driver.
NOTE: If you are shopping for a flywheel and clutch, I recommend that you buy a flywheel and clutch from the same manufacture. They are designed and tested to work together.
Above: A clutch that looks like the OEM clutch will perform similar to the OEM clutch. Manufactures generally refer to this as Stage #1. You can also call to this clutch street friendly.
Above: Misinformed members often buy a clutch with a clamping capacity that exceeds their needs. Thinking is that if it can hold say, 400 pounds of torque, than it must be better. The result will often be an aggressive clutch that is a pain in *** to operate for a daily driver.
NOTE: If you are shopping for a flywheel and clutch, I recommend that you buy a flywheel and clutch from the same manufacture. They are designed and tested to work together.
correct.
i recommend the jwt because it is street friendly and fairly priced.
i personally have the competition stage 4 clutch/light flywheel. but im used to an aggressive clutch. no complaints here. *except in 101 traffic
*
