I had a very bad mechanic. Everything he did failed. The last thing, my 4.08 and quaife are out being rebuilt. These are the off brand solid bushings he put in. I'd rather get a set of SPL tomorrow before it goes back in Wednesday then need to r&r the whole thing later if they are bad.

They have 10k or so on them and the car was fine until the ring & pinion failed costing me over 1k.

Can anyone tell if they have issues?

 

i have ams diff bushings and they seem to hold up fine..cost less than spl too

 

Did they come out easily? They should be "press-fitted" in and be somewhat difficult to remove. How difficult they were to remove should give you somewhat of an idea of what sort of shape they were in. If they slide right in and out with ease I'd purchase a new set for peace of mind.

 

Came right out virtually without trying.

I'll pick up the SPLs tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

What makes you say they need to be press-in? I dont know any reason why they can't be slip fit.

 

i just installed the spl kit, I have like a jumping thing going on in the rear when taking off... but im having clutch issues at the moment so it could just be the engaging issues. ill find out soon tho. hoping its not them

 

I've personally installed two SPL sets and both required them to either be hammered in with a mallet or pressed in.

 

If you shrink them they will Probly slip right in

 

I don't disagree that some kits are designed as press-fit. I disagree that they need to or should be press fit. If the bushings are a couple thousandths of an inch undersized they are perfectly functional and will not affect performance or longevity.

Op- i would measure them and see if they are still round. If they are round and only .001"-.005" smaller in diameter than the diff bore i would save your money and put them back in.

 

If you don't mind, who did the original (bad) diff work, and who's redoing it? I'm looking to get some diff work in the next month or two.

 

The bad shop is out of business so no need to avoid them and no need for me to bash/name them.

AZ Differential downtown is doing the rebuild. They come extremely well recommended.

 

My SPL bushings slid in tightly, then I put a dab of RTV to hold them in place while installing the dif. I would use them, when torqued they will not more.

 

I don't see a need to replace them.

As far as the wheel hop, you have to understand that when you replace one thing solid that the load taken away from that moves somewhere else. So if you are still utilizing ANY oem or solf bushing in your multilink they will eventually fail. All the rubber, urethane bushings are designed to flex/bend to reduce some of the road harshness from transferring into the car. It's all a comfort thing.

On a side not, on you diff bushings, do you also have the rear one that goes into the subframe. From my experience, when that bushing fails is when the wheels hop starts.

I personally use spl full rear multilink plus solid diff bushings. Eventually when I do a complete tear down I will use solid sub Frame spacers as well. But my car will never be that radical.

[img]http://www.slidegood.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/14109/image/24405/
you see the bushing off to the top left on the subframe crossbar? If that wasn't replaced with a solid bushing there's your wheel hop problem.

 

I agree that you may have a bad bushing somewhere else. I personally run solid diff and subframe bushings and love them.

 

Differential is done. Bushings had to be hammered in so I guess they are ok. Waiting for 75-140 recommended by the diff builder to come.

 

Wheel hop I'm betting

 

Thank you since no one else mentioned it.

I only did the solid bushing in the rear of the diff and whiteline inserts in the front. I only have full bolt ons and have no wheel hop at all. Not sure what would happen with my setup and 500 whp+

 

Cool story bro.




OP How does it drive? That's next on my list of mods. I did the poly tranny mount and it's retarded loud in the car.

 

Aluminum subframe mounts and aluminum diff bushings , it is retardedly loud in my car.

 

I can really see the difference now with my stroker and all the other mods minus the quaife and 4.08. The car feels freaking slow (it is not) but it feels it.

There was an increase in nvh (I have oem subframe bushings) wheel hop was gone. Now with oem bushings the nvh is weird, not so much less as seemingly being transmitted down the driveshaft.

I am waiting for the 75-140 AZ differential told me to get to come from Amsoil so I can put the differential back in.

Can't wait.