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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:28 AM
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ericjackson
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Default rings and bearings

I am sort of rebuilding. still havent decided on what rings or bearings to order. do i just do oem? my machinist said the vq bearings look really good and is what he would use vs ACL "race" bearings because he knows acl and said they are 'so-so'. I am replacing main, crank, and rod bearings.

I am not sure what rings to order though. are there any out there for a decent price that are *better* than oem?

Thanks. im trying to order this stuff tomorrow. so any help would be appreciated.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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Did you ever find out why the rod bearing spun in the original engine?

I have used every type of bearing there is and they all failed equally. The brand that the shop makes the most profit off of is usually what they prefer, but they are all similar IMO. The quality of the assembly is the most important thing here.

Rings are the same way, if they are the correct size and installed correctly, they should be just fine.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:44 AM
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I would stick with OEM bearings if your builder is open to that. Definitely upgrade the rings tho.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Cass007
Did you ever find out why the rod bearing spun in the original engine?

I have used every type of bearing there is and they all failed equally. The brand that the shop makes the most profit off of is usually what they prefer, but they are all similar IMO. The quality of the assembly is the most important thing here.

Rings are the same way, if they are the correct size and installed correctly, they should be just fine.
I am fairly positive i caused the spun rod bearing by a stupid mistake which caused a lot of metal shavings running through my old block. I had damage EVERYWHERE in the engine. rings, cylinder walls, all bearings, crank, probably heads too. Lesson learned there.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by djamps
I would stick with OEM bearings if your builder is open to that. Definitely upgrade the rings tho.
upgrade to what brand?
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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Give us more info..

Are you buy a new crank or getting the old one machined?
If there's that much damage to the crank you will be better off buy a new crank instead of machine all the crank journals and using oversized bearings.
If the cylinder walls are damaged I'm assuming the pistons were also?
How are you going to reuse the old pistons if there is cylinder wall damage?
If there's that much damage to the cylinder walls it's going to need to be bored and honed which means you will need new oversized pistons.


If you're looking to get out this as cheap as possible, I would just get a new low mileage long block (because you said there's damage to the head) from the salvage yard. Not only is it cheaper than building an engine but it's the faster solution.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by J.$
Give us more info..

Are you buy a new crank or getting the old one machined?
If there's that much damage to the crank you will be better off buy a new crank instead of machine all the crank journals and using oversized bearings.
If the cylinder walls are damaged I'm assuming the pistons were also?
How are you going to reuse the old pistons if there is cylinder wall damage?
If there's that much damage to the cylinder walls it's going to need to be bored and honed which means you will need new oversized pistons.


If you're looking to get out this as cheap as possible, I would just get a new low mileage long block (because you said there's damage to the head) from the salvage yard. Not only is it cheaper than building an engine but it's the faster solution.
The reason i did not include any of that is because its all been checked. I am using a different everything. nothing from the original motor. however, the block deck is having to be milled down and i am compensating from that with cometic head gaskets.

I have had the crank and rods measured to be sure they did not need to be machined and they are in perfect condition. I already had the engine, I just had to remove everything to have the deck milled. I do not want to buy another long block, A. because i dont have the money, and B. that is why i am in the position i am now 40k after i bought a "used" long block.
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