I just recieved my Spec twin Disc SS-Trim and it came with a bearing face adapter that goes over the CSC. I on the other hand have a heavy Duty CSC from ZSpeed. Will the bearing spacer fit over my HD CSC and will it work properly with this new twin clutch set up.

Help Me out Guys,

- Manny

 

BUMP...

 

Pictures of the pressure plate fingers would help. Contact Joe @ Zspeed, he's was very helpful when I had questions.

 

 

That pressure plate has a DE style finger ( rounded finger tips), this requires a flat faced throw out bearing contact surface. The HD CSC is a rounded surface meant for a straight finger pressure plate.

You will need an intermediary sleeve, but contact joe at zspeed with dimensions of your Spec sleeve so he can verify it will fit the HD CSC.

 

This is the bearing spacer/adapter that came with this clutch kit.

Front


Back

 

Well the pics def show it adapts to a flat faced pressure plate. Question is the diameters of he adapter sleeve and the HD CSC.

I don't have that information but if you can measure the ID of your sleeve and Joe or someone else that has one in hand can yell you.

 

I got in contact with Joe, he said he'll help me out, I just need to get the measurements of the whole clutch Stack height from flywheel base to the fingers and other measurements off of the clutch. I hope he makes me one for this clutch in particular.

 

Well the Clutch was installed to day and transmission was put back on I told the techs to take a measurement of the slave like Joe Allison said



But unfortunately the measurement came out to 1". Joe advised me not to leave it that way because the slave will blow out. I told them that, but the tech was so certain that it was measured at 1" because they had to bleed the system. I highly doubt it. But hey guys chime in on this please.

 

The CSC doesn't move more than about 1/2 travel, and when its all the way out its got about 1" from joe's image. If they are seeing 1" the piston is all the way out and the pedal travel is doing nothing but trying to pop the piston right out of the csc.

I don't trust mechanics to do anything on my car, this is a prime example. Only solution I see to made this work is getting a custom spacers to move the HD CSC 1/2 further out.

Have you contacted the clutch manufacturerabout the issue? I'd omit telling them the CSC is an aftermarket unit.

 

^ So do you believe everything was going to work as it should and the techs had it right or is it a good Idea to drop the tranny and get a 1/2" CSC back plate to push it foward?

 

Well guys, finally got the tranny installed and all the measurements within spec all thanks to Joe @ ZSpeed. But, now the car won't start it only cranks up but it just won't fire up. They checked everything as in injectors, coilpacks, sparkplugs, even change out the the crank position sensor and still nothing. What do you guys think could be the problem. Chime in people please!!!! 3 weeks without my Z!!! I'm having Z Withdawls!!!!

 

Depending on the flywheel, it could be rotated out of sync with the crank. The crank has an alignment dowel pin that mates with a hole in the flywheel. The oem FW has multiple holes but only one is the correct orientation, that's why the FSM states to mark the position and reassemble the same.

My southbend FW had only one alignment hole so it was dummy proof, you should see if your twin disk setup had multiple alignment holes.

Thats about the only idea I've got.

 

On the back of the spec flywheel I see 2 small holes are those it on the picture? Also the clutch and flywheel came marked with a white going down the clutch and flywheel, what does that have line up with?



The line painted on the clutch and flywheel goes aligned with what on here:

 

Yep well you definetly got two positions on that flywheel that it can be assembled at. Maybe the oem piece will have a dirt outline that can tell you the original position.

As far as markings on the clutch I would contact the vendor or the clutch manufacturer.

 

Finally!! That was the problem they had the flywheel miss aligned and was on the wrong dowel pin, it was on the one for fwd VQs, but now yet another issue has come up. It is hard to get the car into gear 1st and reverse I believe, they said they tried adjusting the clutch engagement point but nothing. They said they are going to continue bleeding the system over and over see if it does something. What do you guys think?

 

Thats about all thats left. The factory hydraulics upstream of the CSC is absolute garbage.

I posted this a while ago when i replaced the OEM CSC with another OEM CSC. If they follow this it should give you fully bled system, it took me a good 6 hrs to nail down.

1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving

2. slowly compress pedal and release pedal (about 2 sec each way)

3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again

4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal

5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve

6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system (damn orifice block causes this). We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.

7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled