MouseTrap

This might get moved but I'm buying a catch can this week and I have two options and a question haha. First off, I'm N/A so is there a need to vent to atmosphere and what are the long term cons? I live in FL so no emissions testing. Here are my options. First one Id cap the intake tube port and route both heads, after replacing my pcv, through the can and back into the manifold. Also considering doing that until I have an oil cooler and routing the drain back into the inlet for the oil cooler, allowing the catch to recirc back into the sump. Would I need a check valve on that connection? The intake tube and manifold would be capped with a breather on top of the can.

Thanks guys. Pretty sure I can do this for under 100 so Ill post a DIY after.

binder

iTrader: (8)

You can't drain to an oil cooler. Oil cooler is pressurized oil system so it would just force oil into your catch can and then into your engine.

The first picture will work just fine but since there is no check valve on the drivers side vent you will need to add a check valve between the catch can and the intake manifold.

MouseTrap

Thanks for the quick response. It will definitely go to the first option. Check valve on the drivers side is a good call too. Another question regarding option 2. I understand the concern with backflow into that drain line but if the cooler was oriented so the inlet was facing up and there was a checked valve on that line also, wouldnt the path of least resistance for the hot oil cooler line still be with gravity into the cooler. I could imagine more of an issue on the cold side where its being forced back into the engine.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Orientation doesn't matter. When the car is running there will be 25-80psi (depending rpm) of oil pressure in that system. There is no way gravity will pull oil against that. I wouldn't trust a check ball valve to work properly once the car is off as well. That is 1 more thing to leak or fail on the car. Plus it would take a lot of oil on top of that check valve to open even the lightest of spring pressures (3psi checkvalve).

I think i have a few ounces of oil in my catch can every month on my built engine. If you have a considerable about of oil in a catch can I would be more worried about the health of the engine than how many times I need to drain the catch can.

Vq.turbo.DremZ

iTrader: (6)

I'm N/A and I vent to Atmosphere. Its an ARC V1, my intake manifold is capped. Option two with no drain back basically.

**Off-Topic: Mouse Trap is a great game, but a ***** to set up. It's like monopoly in reverse, awesome in the beginning, but after the first hour, its all downhill**

MouseTrap

Haha right on! I should put an asterisk with (assuming proper set up) next to it haha. It was such a buzzkill when it didn't work

MouseTrap

And you're totally right. I didn't consider how much pressure that oil was going in there with. My engine isn't doing so hot. 106k and I've been beating it up for 4 years. I'm just trying to make it last through graduation in May so I can build her up. Or buy a Datsun. One or the other

binder

iTrader: (8)

Catch can won't really prolong the life of an engine. It just collects the blow by so it doesn't gum up your intake and valves. Using an engine cleaner will clear off the valves and grime on the valves won't really cause an engine to ultimately fail. Beating on it will though

MouseTrap

Haha hear that. She's more of a cruiser now, though I'm occasionally (almost every day) in a bit of a rush to get to work haha. Just doing the nickle and dimes to keep her going. I was reading the pcv will go bad around 80k and sooner with multiple short trips which is basically all that I do, with the occasional 85mph for a couple hours of highway. All of my smoke seems to be in when I get on the gas at a light/stop sign or when I shift and tap the gas again. No real smoke at WOT or start up(occasional). It seems to be more also when the engine gets warm. I figured the PCV system would be a good start to spend a couple of dollars and will probably lead into a leakdown if there's no real change after the PCV modifications.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

106k isn't really much , mine has many race track miles and at 152k , still going strong. Valve covers have never been off

MouseTrap

Thats why I'm worried but not. I've had it since 46k-ish while it was still under extended warranty and I've kept up with it well (oil changes, scheduled maintenance, etc.). Also I know every time it's been pushed to it's limit since then. I'm sure the rings have some wear but all in all my power is there when I want it and I'm not leaving a trail of smoke, just a puff here or there. Then again there's that PCV valve that should've been replaced xx,000 miles ago which explains most of my symptoms.

I can't keep from burning all of it but I hope to at least catch most of it and help it run a little better until the engine decides to

dixoeileen

You can't drain to an oil cooler.

tcode

iTrader: (7)

Pretty same as mine. No smoke on WOT, no smoke on cold start, but puff after letting the throttle off from high revs when engine completely warm here or there. Will add oil catch can and oil cooler, also at that moment, switching to 10W50 Fuchs Titan Race Pro oil. As I used it in all my previous tuned car and it made real difference.

MouseTrap

I ran 10w50 for a bit but didn't get the results I wanted. Then again when I tried it it wasn't synthetic. I replaced my PCV this weekend and had awesome results. About half as much smoke now. Im picking up a catch can at the moment. Oil cooler a bit down the line too.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Heavier weight oil will have no change in oil being pulled from the valve covers into the manifold on fast decel (high vacuum).

MouseTrap

Agreed. My pressures in the morning were too high on the 10w50. It does get alittle chilly down here sometimes but where you are you might have better results. I've heard mixed feelings about heavier oil. How heavy is too heavy for N/A? And would that change with a cooler?

binder

iTrader: (8)

Cooler won't change it except keeping the temps lower which means the oil would be more viscous (thick).

It really doesn't matter n/a to FI for oil. It's more about use and engine build. With more clearance in bearings you want a thicker oil. Race cars, thicker oil. For normal use it has to be able to protect at the temps you will experience. Thick oil in cold temps means the oil will not protect properly. I would never run a 50wt anything lower than 50*F unless the car is being raced and the engine temps will be very high.

MouseTrap

Indeed, that sums up most of what I understood before but that's a good point about the bearing clearance. I live in central FL, it's rare that it gets lower than 50 but the coldest it's been since I've been here was 35. In the winter, it will hover in the 40s at night. But I dont have to talk about the summer. 95+ easy most days. And I make frequent trips, putting me on the highway in those temps for 2-4hrs. I ran it from CT 16 straight a couple times too. I've experimented with a couple of different weights. It might just come down to running thicker in the summer. But I do plan to add a cooler next month.

binder

iTrader: (8)

highway driving won't heat the oil. Highway cruise will actually keep the oil temps pretty low. Mine usually stay 170-180 in 90*+ outside temps when on the highway. If you were constant boost at a race track for 45 minutes or more with say 220-240* oil temps then I could see higher oil weight being used.

I know even on the highway going home if it is 60-70* outside my oil temps get down to the 150-160* range since there is almost no load on the engine.

MouseTrap

hah 90-95 for 2 hours count as highway driving? I need to log a bit more. See where my temps are actually at before I start getting too involved with the cooler. I know they are up there though. Last time I had it hooked up I remember it being well over 200. Im definitely curious now as to how high they peak at.