Hey everybody, I've been getting a p0327 code and after doing research I decided to replace my knock sensor harness.
To make a long story short, I've got everything removed that I need to, intake manifold, fuel rails, etc. I just can't get the light blue connection undone at the back of the engine.
Any help would be appreciated!

 

Cmon, I'm sure someone's done this before.

 

I've done it, but all i can remember is that it is a simple clip plug. didn't have to do anything special.

 

I finally got it. The problem was that it was buried and almost impossible to get to. But it was worth it! Can't believe how much faster it feels now that the timing isnt being retarded by the knock sensor.

 

I need to get mine replaced as well, just wondering what you did exactly.

I know the plenum, lower collector and fuel rails come off and that's it?
Do you have a link to a DIY you used or was it just pretty straight forward.

Thanks!

 

In the order I took it off it was: Strut brace, Intake piping, upper plenum, lower plenum, fuel rails, and intake manifold. After you get all that off, the knock sensor is sitting between the two heads. The part I had an issue with was getting it disconnected from the other end. There's really no trick that can make it easier that I found, it's just an awkwardly placed connector. I finally got it with a flat head by kind of breaking the connector on the old harness side, probably not the best way to do it but it worked for me.

As far as a DIY, I didn't have anything specific to go off of. If you keep track of your nuts/bolts and any vacuum hoses and connectors you have to disconnect, you shouldn't have any issues.

And it completely solved the problem for me! P0327 is gone and hasn't come back.

 

Awesome, sounds easy enough just time consuming thanks!
BTW, does your Z perform better now? Well, how was it acting before you changed it and when you had the code? Mine feels sluggish and the power sometimes won't come on and when it does, it feels like it's lagging or something.

 

Mine had no power until about 4000 rpms.
That connector was tricky, so I zip tied it to an easier location before re-assembly. A 1/4" or 3/8" torque wrench is an absolute must for this job, and you're supposed to replace the lower intake gaskets as well.
Also make sure you cover the fuel line connection with a towel when you release the pressure.