hey guys, once again same bulls*** problem with this car. Ive posted threads about different problem with my passenger axles and have replaced everything but this keeps happening. I haven't driven my car since the first time this happened which was about a month ago because i just can't seem to find the problem. My driver side axle is perfectly fine, all my alignment specs are the same (camber, toe etc etc)..my coil overs are the exact same height. I replaced the differential with half shafts to see if that was the problem and still nothing!!!! I was replacing the axle for the 3rd time this month today and once i start tightening it down to the wheel hub with the big nut this happens. can someone please chime in and give me ideas of what it could be?





(chrome part should NOT be showing)




It happened when i was changing my studs a month ago, i was using a socket wrench to pull in the new studs with the washers and old lug nut (like the how to on this forum) and i think i tightened too hard and all of a sudden the hub was spinning even in gear with the car off. Can it be the hub itself or something inside the hub missing or broken thats causing my axle to pull out so easy? I ran this exact same suspension setup/specs for about 2 years now and NEVER had problems with my axles until after the day that the incident with the hub spinning after stud install happened. It has to be related to that 100%. PLEASE HELP, wekfest is in 10 days and i would really like to show case all the hard work i put into this car the past year.

 

pound it back in with a mallet. pull on it.

 

i do that every time i change the axle, but its the axle that is pulling it, as if the axle is too short but its not because I've triple checked. You see how the rubber boot is stretched out on the axle? it shouldn't be like that, if i try to push the half shaft back inside with it out it won't even move its like the axle is maxed out

 

Im no expert but wouldnt you install the shaft onto the diff first and then tighten the axle nut on the hub.

 

yeah the axle shaft was already installed in the dif before i installed the axle, once i tightened the axle to the shaft and the hub is when it starting pulling the differential shaft out.

pretty much everything is fine until i have to tighten the axle to the hub with the big nut, thats when it pulls out from the opposite side being the differential side, and since the axle is already bolted to the shaft it bring out the shaft from the differential

 

Looks like it is too short to me. The boot is stretched and wrinkled.

Where are you buying the shafts from?

 

it feels that way, but what confuses me is that the oem shaft, oem differential and oem axles never had this problem for 2 years, until i changed my studs, even the oem stuff felt too short! thats where I'm confused, the shafts are straight from the dealer, I've gotten them replaced twice to make sure it wasn't the wrong one and its not =[[[[

 

Since you are going to Weakfest, how much camber are you running?

 

about -5

but even if i zero out the camber and toe, same exact problem persists, wether its 0 camber or -9, its the same problem =[

 

I'm just thinking, as you add camber to destroy the looks of your car, you are actually extending the lower arms and you could be at a point of maxing out the axle. Just remove to camber , like drop to -4 and see what happens.

Is this one or both sides ? Have you thought about replacing the C clips that may be weaker over time, they are about $2 each from Nissan.

 

are you using a drivers side axle on the passenger side? there appears to be a length difference due to pumpkin shape and mounting.

 

Sure enough they are different length. I forgot about that. The driver side is 23 7/8" and the passenger side is 25 1/2"

There is your problem.

 

camber is straightened out to about -2 now which should be factory spec, I'm going for a different look this year...yet axle still is pulled out to the maximum. =[ also both c clips are brand new, i maxed out my driver side camber to -9 and the axle was still not pulling, i ran about -8 camber at one time for about a year and my axles never looked like that, thats why I'm so confused

 

the driver side axle is shorter than the one on my passenger by the looks of it, i did just switch to an lsd differential and kept my oem axles if that makes any difference?

 

i have to measure asap, but the part number they've been giving me is for passenger...does it matter if I'm using a different pumpking than the one that came with my car? i switched to an lsd but kept oem non lsd axles if that matters


edit: just measured and both axles should be the lengths they should be =[ back to square one.

 

out of curiosity could a bad hub or bad wheel bearing cause any of this? thats the only thing in the rear i haven't taken a look at

 

The diff output shafts are different but I don't know if they are different length (from LSD to non-LSD).

From the look of your adjustable links it looks like you have the hub pushed out a lot but it still shouldn't pull the stub shaft out.

 

i know lsd shafts are different but the shafts i got are for the lsd, just axles stayed the same...i ran that setup for years i know it can't be my camber or anything cause even with no negative camber problem still happens

 

From what I've read the only difference in the axle stubs between LSD and open diffs is on the inside. The pumpkin is the same no matter what is inside it. The speed sensors are in the same spot so they should be the same length on the outside.