5at to 6 mt swap car not driving.
05-07-2016, 10:55 AM
#1
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5at to 6 mt swap car not driving.
hi i am having a problem with my 5at to 6speed swap.
when i turn my car on it doesnt seem to respond to anything i do with the clutch and shifter.
the car doesnt stall i can put the car in any gear and release the clutch quickly the car just stays on the entire time.
i can even switch gears without having to press the clutch the car doesnt do anything.
i am using an auto ecu and auto wiring harness
in other words my car wont drive.
the only two codes that show up are u1000 and u1001
when i turn my car on it doesnt seem to respond to anything i do with the clutch and shifter.
the car doesnt stall i can put the car in any gear and release the clutch quickly the car just stays on the entire time.
i can even switch gears without having to press the clutch the car doesnt do anything.
i am using an auto ecu and auto wiring harness
in other words my car wont drive.
the only two codes that show up are u1000 and u1001
05-07-2016, 12:15 PM
#3
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Did you install a clutch? Lol
05-07-2016, 12:41 PM
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yes a clutch is installed......i just dont understand why the car isnt moving/driving.....
i followed the 5at to 6speed diy thread......do you have to "index the flywheel?"
when i installed the flywheel i just latched it onto the dowel pin on the crankshaft and bolted everything up....
i followed the 5at to 6speed diy thread......do you have to "index the flywheel?"
when i installed the flywheel i just latched it onto the dowel pin on the crankshaft and bolted everything up....
05-07-2016, 01:20 PM
#5
Something seems very not right. Shouldn't have anything to do with the ecu something in your drive line is not connected.
You can sit their with your engine running and just put it in any gear with no grind no movement no signs of a super pissed off drivetrain without even pushing in the clutch...
Sucky situation after all that work.
Going to guess where the engine meets with the transmission has something very off.
You can sit their with your engine running and just put it in any gear with no grind no movement no signs of a super pissed off drivetrain without even pushing in the clutch...
Sucky situation after all that work.
Going to guess where the engine meets with the transmission has something very off.
Last edited by dboyzalter; 05-07-2016 at 01:23 PM.
05-07-2016, 01:55 PM
#6
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You break the shifter fork?
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05-07-2016, 02:21 PM
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the transmission is used.
yesterday their was a small hill in my driveway and the car rolled down it on its own while the e brake was up.....isnt the ebrake suppose to stop the car from rolling?
i havent tried rolling the car while its in gear yet
yesterday their was a small hill in my driveway and the car rolled down it on its own while the e brake was up.....isnt the ebrake suppose to stop the car from rolling?
i havent tried rolling the car while its in gear yet
05-07-2016, 02:52 PM
#10
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Well, start from the beginning....
You have U1000 and U1001 codes. These are associated with the CANBUS indicating NO COMMUNICATION between one or more of the control units. I'm going to guess that this is from the AT controller which no longer exists and/or the wires have not been looped.
Whether this has anything to do with your mechanical issues is questionable. If motor is running fine, I'd say you can skip the comm's problems FOR NOW and concentrate on the mechanical end of things. (But something in the back of my head is telling me there's some link between the comm's failure and the engine-to-transmission failure.)
Clearly, your engine and transmission aren't talking to one another. So, the link being the clutch, I'd concentrate on that.
First, does the engine change sound or feel when you move the clutch pedal in/out? I'm going to guess not since it seems there's a total disengagement going on.
That being the case, is the fork engaging the T/O bearing? Is there fluid in the master and/or slave? Is the hose connected to either unit? Is there any sign of leaking fluid? Is the pedal properly connected to the master? And so on and so forth....
Point here is that you're going to need to look at every aspect of your install over again, no matter how silly or simple it seems because.... likely the issue is something silly and simple.
You have U1000 and U1001 codes. These are associated with the CANBUS indicating NO COMMUNICATION between one or more of the control units. I'm going to guess that this is from the AT controller which no longer exists and/or the wires have not been looped.
Whether this has anything to do with your mechanical issues is questionable. If motor is running fine, I'd say you can skip the comm's problems FOR NOW and concentrate on the mechanical end of things. (But something in the back of my head is telling me there's some link between the comm's failure and the engine-to-transmission failure.)
Clearly, your engine and transmission aren't talking to one another. So, the link being the clutch, I'd concentrate on that.
First, does the engine change sound or feel when you move the clutch pedal in/out? I'm going to guess not since it seems there's a total disengagement going on.
That being the case, is the fork engaging the T/O bearing? Is there fluid in the master and/or slave? Is the hose connected to either unit? Is there any sign of leaking fluid? Is the pedal properly connected to the master? And so on and so forth....
Point here is that you're going to need to look at every aspect of your install over again, no matter how silly or simple it seems because.... likely the issue is something silly and simple.
05-07-2016, 06:18 PM
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when i press the clutch pedal i hear a slight rattling sound then let out the clutch pedal rattle sound goes away i have a twin disk clutch.
car was in neutral when it rolled down the hill.
i will probably jack up the car when i get someone to help me push my car back into my garage up the small slope.
i bled all the air from the clutch master cylinder and slave to get that pressure from the clutch to spring back up. yes their is fluid.
car was in neutral when it rolled down the hill.
i will probably jack up the car when i get someone to help me push my car back into my garage up the small slope.
i bled all the air from the clutch master cylinder and slave to get that pressure from the clutch to spring back up. yes their is fluid.
05-08-2016, 02:57 PM
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i think i might have found a problem.
in this video it appears that the slave cylinder is depressed down in its normal form without the clutch pedal depressed. and when you depress it it appears to be pushing the clutch fork.
when i tested my clutch pedal with the car off, by putting a pipe in place to hold the clutch down my slave cylinder just stays in 1 position and that is fully extended pushing against the clutch fork. whether clutch pedal depressed or not it seems to be stuck and fully pushed against the clutch fork.
in this video it appears that the slave cylinder is depressed down in its normal form without the clutch pedal depressed. and when you depress it it appears to be pushing the clutch fork.
when i tested my clutch pedal with the car off, by putting a pipe in place to hold the clutch down my slave cylinder just stays in 1 position and that is fully extended pushing against the clutch fork. whether clutch pedal depressed or not it seems to be stuck and fully pushed against the clutch fork.
Last edited by CK12983; 05-08-2016 at 03:02 PM.
05-08-2016, 04:51 PM
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yes the video shows how it works, mines doesnt work like that.
the slave cylinder is fully extended pushing the clutch fork at all times, the transmission is basically reading as if the clutch pedal is fully depressed all the time that is why i can shift in any gear while the car is on without having to depress the clutch.
and that is why my car isnt stalling because the slave cylinder is not releasing back to the down position because the car reads that the clutch is still down. its also my suspicion is the reason why my car is not moving because you cannot move the car if the engine reads that the clutch pedal is still down ....
the slave cylinder is fully extended pushing the clutch fork at all times, the transmission is basically reading as if the clutch pedal is fully depressed all the time that is why i can shift in any gear while the car is on without having to depress the clutch.
and that is why my car isnt stalling because the slave cylinder is not releasing back to the down position because the car reads that the clutch is still down. its also my suspicion is the reason why my car is not moving because you cannot move the car if the engine reads that the clutch pedal is still down ....
Last edited by CK12983; 05-08-2016 at 04:53 PM.
05-08-2016, 07:34 PM
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i took off the slave cylinder and push the clutch fork down. turned the car on and the problem is still there........can shift through gears without having to press the clutch in......at idle....car doesnt move....so i guess it wasnt the slave cylinder then....
05-08-2016, 07:43 PM
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Pull the trans, I wonder if you have the short pivot ball and the fork that requires the long one? For vice versa
You did install a clutch disk right ?
You did install a clutch disk right ?
Last edited by terrasmak; 05-08-2016 at 07:44 PM.
05-08-2016, 08:05 PM
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am starting to think its a clutch or something wrong with it as well because when i am at idle and rev the car to 1.5k rpm i hear some type of screeching sound that has never gone away. i am assuming its coming from the transmission.
cd009 transmission with a short pivot ball for my 04 350z
cd009 transmission with a short pivot ball for my 04 350z