twoey2340

alright so i rebuilt my motor and when i attempted to start my car it wont start just cranks. red security light is solid on dash but i hear thats normal even when removing nats with osiris uprev....

i don't see spark when i attempted to crank the car so we'll start off there.

i tested for compression and compression is healthy throughout all of the cylinders.

changed out both fuel pumps

changed out both camshaft sensors, and crankshaft sensor

changed out spark plugs to new ones

i also got my ecu reflashed with osiris uprev to turn off the NATS and osiris uprev confirms that nats has been remove off the ECU

i am about 99% certain that i did the timing correctly on the timing chain with all the marks, i am 99% certain the flywheel is installed correctly i lined up the dowel mark behind flywheel with crankshaft mark at 12 oclock when installing.

i think the last thing i can think of is maybe the ECU is broken? but how can the ECU be broken if i can still connect to it with my nissan datascan software and run codes and what not.....

help me figure this out i have been at this for awhile......

the only code that comes up is U1000 i hear that code is normal since i swapped my z from auto to manual.....

yosip1115

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having the same problem after swapping in a different oem engine. Cranks but no start, code1000

typy01

I am having some of the same problems, I changed out the Plugs and coil packs. After I changed
cylinders 2,4 and 6 and put everything back in place, cranked it with no problems, ran fine. I then
proceeded to change out 1,3, and 5, after this I put everything back in place and when I tried to start it
the fans came on and the motor would spin over but would not fire. I then checked all connections, hoses and everything else I had touched. Still same results. I have checked, yet again and again for something I missed and can find nothing, Please any help this is my Granddaughters car am desperate to get it running. It has over 100,000 miles on it and this is the first plug change out. They were completely worn out, and I changed coil packs as a defensive measure. Thanks for ANY HELP.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Any codes?

typy01

I am not sure where to read codes as I do not have a reader, Is there a way to read the codes on the dash?? I have gone back last evening and cleaned all ground connections, re-looked at all places I touched and can find nothing out of place, I guess I am just too damn old to be doing this, any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks Tom Y.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Did you accidentally unplug the harness that connects the wires on that side of the motor? Did you disturb the mass airflow sensor or forget to plug that back in? Take a few engine pictures and post them.

Can't think of a reason for it not to start unless something is unplugged still.

typy01

I will check again and let you know. I don't think anything is still unplugged as I even got away from it for 24 hours to make sure I was not missing a plug, all still to no avail. You know I am desperate, I even had my wife go look and hunt for unplugged cables. I am going to have another look and get back to you.

Thanks, Tom Y.

Atreyu'z 350

It sounds like you may have accidentally reversed the coil harness connections on cylinders 1 & 3. It's a common thing. The area in question is circled in red..

Atreyu'z 350

Here's some more info to help you in the future, and possibly with this.. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html

typy01

Checked cylinders 1 and 3 plugs, on my 350z the cable for 3 would be to short to reach 1, also I changed one plug at a time so as not to get them mixed up. I went everything again last evening and checked all fuses (including those hidden on the passenger side by the battery) and found all ok. I checked them OUT of holder with a ohm meter. Then checked and had vot
ltage on each side of fuse while they were in and key on. I am totally stumped. I ordered an OBD tester and it will be in on Sunday, so just maybe I will be able to retrive some codes monday.
I really appreciate all the patience and help.

Thanks Tom Y

typy01

Here are some of he pictures

passenger side

Atreyu'z 350

OK that's good. I was just checking because that's a common mix-up that happens on that side.. Now that that's out of the way, yeah, wait for your OBD II scanner to arrive and then see what it reads. But in the meantime, just go over everything again. Maybe even take that side back apart. I mean it's probably something simple that you may have overlooked. That's what it sounds like anyways, at this point.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried resetting the computer? Did you disconnect the battery when you worked on the car?

Im just pulling at straws but I would disconnect the battery for a few hours and then try it again.

typy01

I took the negative terminal off and left it overnight, during that time I had it on an auto charger, just to make sure, and still no change. I checked the fuses, all three panels, 2 in battery cavity, and one beside drivers left leg, all ok. One new development, my Grand Daughter (her car) when I looked at gas gauge it was on the very bottom !! KIDS I had them go get a five gallon can of 93 octane (what we use in all, Motorcycles and BMW, and put that in. My fear is the gas pump picked up some trash in tank. I hope not, but have not really figured out how to disconnect a fuel line to check. I think the only place to get to it is on the passenger side near the rear, the 2 bolt flange, hard to find a decent layout, I purchased a Hayes 350Z book, and it is not very explanatory. I am not able to raise it high enough to pull the fuel pump so if that turns out to be the consensus then ?? I can't get down under the car, and am sore as all get out being a contortionist under the hood !! Oh Well, its hell to be nearly 84 years old !!

typy01

i THINK !! THIS IS THE FLANGE THEY SAY COMES FROM THE FUEL TANK, BUT AM NOT SURE AT THIS POINT !!

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

The fuel pump is in the tank and is accessible through the car under the glove box behind the passenger seat. I would be surprised if the tank had any dirt at all inside. I dook apart a 210k mile car and the tank still looked brand new and not a single spec of dirt could be found.

I believe these cars have a relief valve for the fuel. It's got a green cap and should be marked. You can open that and turn the ignition on and it should squirt gas all over the place. (Probably have buckets and rags around)

That part you pictures does indeed have gas inside of it, their is 2 of them one for each side of the engine.

I also have a repair manual and your right about them not being very specific..

Im almost 50 years younger than you, and I have a hard time working on these cars also... (not to mention how im sore all day when I stay in bed too long)

You could try spraying a little carb and choke cleaner through the vacuum port on the front of the plenum (intake manifold) if it starts up temporarily then you will know you have a fuel issue.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

are your coil packs grounded? common thing that is forgotten since its not a clip. Two ring terminals that go on a m6 bolt on the front timing cover

NissanZcrazy

iTrader: (1)

I would start by verifying each cylinder/coil for spark..Then check your fuel pressure.Its a PITA on these cars but worth a try if you really feel it's a fuel concern.P.s.That green cap at the rear right of the engine bay is for the EVAP system smoke testing.It has nothing to do with the fuel delivery so to speak.While it would be extremely rare the new coils you put in could be crap!.Just because it's a new part doesn't make it good.At the shop I work at we've actually had shitty cool packs take out ecu's.Mind you that was on a Ford Escape.Since this happened right after replacing the right banks coils I would go after the spark check first!!.

Atreyu'z 350

Yeah, I bought that Haynes 350Z/G35 book too. And you're right. It doesn't focus as much on the 350Z as it does on the G35.. Check out that link I posted. It contains the factory service manuals to all 350Z's by year.. In regards to your fuel, when you turn the key to the ''ON'' position, right before it starts, do you hear your fuel pump ''prime'' itself(a low hum that lasts 2 seconds)...?

Atreyu'z 350

^That's the fuel damper. It negates the pulses produced by the fuel pump so that the injectors have a steady, pressurized, and uninterrupted stream of fuel to work with.