Lower intake manifold leak
#22
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
yeah, those four...theyre already threaded...just put a OEM 10mm bolt in there w/locktite - It will seal just fine.
I would put them in from the bottom so if in the unforeseen event they loosen-up and unthread they simply fall out and NOT fall into your intake track (for example if you were to install them inside the plenum).
I would put them in from the bottom so if in the unforeseen event they loosen-up and unthread they simply fall out and NOT fall into your intake track (for example if you were to install them inside the plenum).
#23
New Member
Thread Starter
Ya I would never install them from the inside of the manifold. I have plenty of spare bolts I'll just throw some 545 on them and tighten them down should be fine. Man not gonna lie that didn't even cross my mind about those bolts I would've figured it out eventually but I would've been chasing that one for a long time lol. So simple yet completely bypassed it. Once again thanks for bringing that up man can't thank u enough!
#24
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
here to help...pay it back & pay it forward...
#25
New Member
Thread Starter
Always do brother. I'm a technician by trade so I try to help people out here as much as possible. 15 years of wrenching and fabrication experience and I have never had so many problems with a project at home or at work lol. And it happens to be the first car I've built for myself. One of these days eventually we will have to get together for a cruise n track day! Your in Colorado right? Omaha isn't to far away.
Btw. Did u ever end up fixing or replacing your cracked manifold?
Btw. Did u ever end up fixing or replacing your cracked manifold?
#26
New Member
Thread Starter
Well I fixed the vacuum leak! Bolts in the bottom of the lower plenum worked out perfectly! Car idles much better a little rich but I'll have to play with the Haltech to get that right. I cut the fuel idle map by 67% to compensate for the larger injectors and it got better but still not perfect sitting around 13-1 at idle. Coincidentally I routed the catch can outlet to the vacuum inlet for the pcv and the car stopped smoking. Also stopped spitting the weird P0373 code which could also happen from a lot of misfires I have read. I'll take it for a drive in the morning and see how it acts. Obviously the tune is light-years away from right so we'll see how it goes.
#27
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Nice!
i can give some stupid-safe ignition timing values if you want?
do you run closed loop fuel? Assuming you are running dual widebands?
i can give some stupid-safe ignition timing values if you want?
do you run closed loop fuel? Assuming you are running dual widebands?
#28
New Member
Thread Starter
im not running dual widebands yet. I have my AEM wideband wired to the Haltech and the Haltech is reading the same value the gauge is displaying I used the 5v signal output of the gauge and wired it to AVI2. I did the sensor calibration and it seems to be working. I did the same thing with the fuel psi gauge to AVI3. I have a few things left to do. I need to wire a 12 ohm resistor in to the AEM true boost where the mac3 solenoid is suppose to be hooked up cause I still want to use the gauge but the solenoid is wired to the Haltech and it's giving me an error code and won't read boost/vacuum. I also have to get the twin in tank pumps installed and plumbed.
#29
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
highly recommend Haltechs Dual Channel...AFR, behind ign timing, are crucial...I wouldnt depend on an AEM wired into the haltech - does it work? probably...but do you want to risk it?
#30
New Member
Thread Starter
I'll pry wait on the dual channel wideband I have a few things to wrap up before I spend any more money. So did u just put bulkheads in the oil pan for the turbo drains no fancy scavenge pump setup or anything? I think I'm going to run the -10AN bulkheads in the upper pan and use a AN to 45° or 90° hose barb to connect the silicone hose from the Greddy turbo drain pipes. I ordered the parts today I hope it works out and stops smoking when I get into boost. drove the car a bit more this weekend with a watchful eye on the wideband and knock count. Doesn't smoke at idle anymore but once oil psi comes up it still smokes so I'm redoing the drains for sure. I looked into doing a scavenge pump but I don't think it's necessary.
#31
Registered User
It's pretty easy to check the manifold pieces for warpage. Gives directions in the FSM. How do you know your leak is from the lower intake manifold though. Unless I missed it in the thread. I small vacuum leak will only effect idle. The car will compensate obviously and run rich, past 1500 rpms a small vacuum leak isn't noticeable since the car isn't under vacuum anymore. Just my 2 cents and using a good rtv along with the metal gaskets can prevent this or stop it if it's small. All it takes in a cars lifetime is sometime to torque it down to much on one side or not in a correct pattern and the intake is warped. Smoking issue after an overhaul is something else though. I might have missed an update on that too.