Huh?

You have 1 radiator not multiple. And the level went up? Where? Your post doesn’t make sense.

 

 

That’s not the fluid level. That guage shows the fluid temperature. Which is why it’s H and C.. Hot and cold.

Do your fans even come on? Have you removed the radiator and put it to the hose and see if it’s clogged and not closing?

Is the thermostat OEM? Was it professionally installed and tested before install?

 

CK,

Of you look closely, you'll see the OP is from Aachen, which is in Germany, near the Belgian border. I suspect his English is a whole lot better than your German.

 

Ok? Is that supposed to make me feel bad? I’m not trying to make him feel bad I’m just saying I’d love to help but it didnt make sense.

His second post was much more clear.. Did you come to help OP with his problem? Or you just come make fun of my German

 

translated-
changed out the sensor
(thought OP meant thermostat but OP then posts-"the sensor was changed not the thermostat)
ran car for 20 minutes
coolant temperature rose
both radiator fans failed to turn on

so what sensor was changed out?

 

Adriano,

If your coolant temperature gauge is functioning properly then the problem is probably not with the sensor.

The sensor sends its signal to the engine ECU. The ECU sends a fan ON signal to the Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room (IPDM E/R), which is installed behind the battery. The fan ON signal is based on vehicle speed, coolant temperature, and air conditioning system status. Your fan problem could be with the fan fuses, the fan relays on the IPDM E/R, the IPDM E/R processor, or the wiring.

You can perform a test of the IPDM E/R which will check most of the above. Here's the procedure, based on the US Service Manual:

1. Close the hood and passenger door.
2. Lift the windshield wipers away from the windshield, to prevent damage during the wiper part of the test.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and, within 20 seconds, press the driver's door switch 10 times.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF and, within 10 seconds, turn it back ON.
6. The auto active test will run 3 times. To cancel the test before it runs through all 3 times, turn the ignition switch OFF.

The test includes the following:
1. Rear window defogger ON for 10 seconds.
2. Windshield wipers on LOW for 5 seconds, then HIGH for 5 seconds.
3. Parking lamps, tail lamps and license plate lamps ON for 10 seconds.
4. Headlamp low beams ON for 10 seconds.
5. Headlamp high beams ON and OFF 5 times.
6. Air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch ENGAGE and DISENGAGE 5 times.
7. Cooling fans on LOW for 5 seconds, the HIGH for 5 seconds.

 

The sensor connected to the Fans was changed. I dunno about the thermostat of it‘s OEM or not. The fans don‘t work.

 

Oh that’s a big difference than the original post.

Have you checked the fan fuse from the fuse box? Do we know if the fans still even work? Fuses and fans go out all the time. Check your fan fuse and check and make sure the fans still even work. You might just need a whole new fan assembly. Neither should be terribly expensive.

 

The fuses from the fans are fine. I tried the test and nothing happens. Turned the ignition switch ON, pressed the drivers door switch 10 times, them OFF and within 10 seconds ON.

 

The fans were dead and I changed them to Mishimoto brand.