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Question about the manual mode switch.

Old 01-13-2019, 06:42 PM
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#drunkontacos
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Default Question about the manual mode switch.

Okay, so here is a thing I need to know. On a 5at shifter, there is a switch that sends a signal to the tcm when the shifter is moved from the drive position into the right manual mode gate. Does anyone know if that is a one time signal(you shift it over and it send a signal, and when you move it back it sends another signal) or does moving the shifter over click a "dumb" switch that closes the loop, and sends steady voltage to the tcm, and when you move the shifter back to the left auto gate, it take pressure off the manual mode switch, opening the loop, cutting voltage to the tcm so that it knows its back in auto mode?

The reason I ask is that when I pick up my z33 with my tax return, I want to keep it nice and not too noisy for daily commuting and long trips, but I want a rowdy loud car when I want to be rowdy and loud, so I'll run isr longtubes to a cheap full length dual exhaust from ebay, with electronic cutouts between the resonators and a 2-1 y feeding into the factory muffler, and wire up the electronic cutouts to be opened when the shifter is moved into the manual mode gate via a tap into the manual mode switch going into a relay to open them, and that SHOULD cause the cutouts to close and remain closed when the shifter is in the automatic gate. Best of both worlds, with no extra switches to flip, hidden or visible, just slap the shifter over and she get loud and rowdy.

Last edited by #drunkontacos; 01-13-2019 at 06:44 PM. Reason: My thumbs are fat and t
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Old 01-14-2019, 04:31 AM
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karlt
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Attached is a page from the MY 2005 Service Manual (You didn't specify the MY of your car). The wiring for the shift lever is outlined in red. From the diagram it appears that the AUTO/MANUAL switch is a "dumb" switch. It sends a ground directly to the Unified Meter and AC Amp when in AUTO and through the UP, N or DOWN connections when in MANUAL. The Unified Meter and AC Amp communicates these signals to the TCM over the CAN bus.

Most technical questions can be answered by referring to the Service Manual, which can be downloaded here:
https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan...e-manuals.html
Attached Files

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Old 01-14-2019, 06:25 AM
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So, tap the wire(s) between the manual mode switch and the position switches and run that to the ground post on a 4 post relay, so that it would get a ground and allow the relay to energize whenever the shifter goes into the manual gate, sound right, or would I need to run a diode between the tap and the position switches to avoid burning the tcm or the switches up? At the very least, I would improve the ground after the manual mode switch...
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Old 01-14-2019, 07:25 AM
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coletrickle74
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I would just run a separate switch to be honest. I wouldn't want any chance of interference with the trans. Although I guess you could tap into it first to see what happens.
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Old 01-14-2019, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by coletrickle74 View Post
I would just run a separate switch to be honest. I wouldn't want any chance of interference with the trans. Although I guess you could tap into it first to see what happens.
I agree. I don't know how easy it will be to access the connections inside the shifter mechanism (A/T device in Nissan lingo).
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Old 01-14-2019, 10:15 AM
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Video swing position switches for up and down(and now that I think about it, pulling back to up shift and pushing forward to downshift actually sounds more natural...) :

Possibly the right diode? (40a 50v,you CA Run higher numbers than you need with diodes, and I don't need the diode to be a bulletproof one-way, as long as it makes it a path of WAY more resistance, it should be safe, and I would run a second ground coming off the manual mode switch and run it up to connect either A. directly to the negative post on the battery, or B. to one of those heavy duty power distribution blocks for car stereos, with the big wire slot on it going to the negative post on the battery, so I use the other smaller slots for grounds for other modifications. (We actually used method B when we built my s13 from scratch, and it worked great.)
https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...code=DI083PF01

With that diode, I would probably use just one diode, snip one of the outboard legs, cut the single wire going into the manual mode switch, solder the wire coming from the position switches to the remaining outboard leg, and solder the wire coming from the mms to the center leg, along with the ground wire for the relay, and then improve ground for the mms using one of the above methods.

Also, note that I don't have a z33 yet. A buddy of mine wants to buy one of my motorcycles, and I should be getting back around $5-6k from taxes this year, plus I'm out of work for the next 5 months due to health issues, ad I'm spending as little money as possible.but my disability insurance from work is about the same as my regular paycheck, so able to set aside around $100-200 a week. By the time I get my federal return, I should have enough saved up to pick up a great condition 04/05 z33 vert touring with the auto trans, along with isr longtubes, a cheap eBay special hks dual system knock off, mishimoto intake tube and filter kit, braided brake lines, a kinetix v+ plenum, all three of the undercar chassis braces, the two dumps and the electronic cutouts, and the rack time to get the whole thing welded up to flow through the factory muffler(and have the dumps open up automatically when the shifter goes into manual mode, and close when it is put back in automatic mode) , and hopefully still have enough to pick a pioneer avh4200nex head unit, and all the wiring trickery to make it work without setting the parking brake, and set up a backup cam(thays the radio I have in my Yukon, and it me SPOILED! Build a little mount on the center console with a wireless charger base built in and run a USB c cable from usb2 port on the back of the thing for Android auto, and run an hdmi-usb c cable from the hdmi aux in and have them hanging out just enough under the mount so I can do screen mirroring or Android Auto, depending on which cable I plug into the phone. As soon as I get my taxes, I'm going all in. Should be able to get it all done in maybe a week? We built my s13 from a stripped non-rolling shell to a road worthy car with full interior and working everything in 2.5 weeks a couple years ago? And when I find and buy my z33, I should still have the 3 months of downtime, with npthing else to do except watch anime and wrestling with the cat, build a bunch of the Gundam model kits I already have, but haven't opened, actually update our website, and do the weekly podcast.
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