Last week I drove my Z to work and on the way in I hit this pot hole and I immediately noticed my clutch pedal was not right and ever since when I push in the clutch there isn't much pedal and it makes a squeeling noise I parked the car because its hard to put into 1st I was thinking it was the throw out bearing but that problem should stop making noise when you push in the clutch anyway before I drop the transmission I figgured I would ask around its a 2004 350z

 

I look at the dates of posts and they all 10yrs old I ask a question and get no reply this site ain't ****

 

Lol. Easy, tiger. I'll try to help you out despite the lack of patience.

It could be the pothole did something or just a coincidence. If you don't want to drop the transmission right out of the gate (I don't blame you), try looking at everything else first from the start to the end and do some fairly pain-free trouble-shooting.

Have you inspected the clutch pedal itself? It could be that the clevis pin shifted with the jolt or something is incorrect with the linkage. Are there any leaks in the lines? Is there fluid in the master cylinder? Is the fluid clean? Have you bled the system for air lately or changed the fluid? Does the push rod move normally in and out of the MC when you depress the clutch? Does the slave operate normally under the car when the clutch pedal is operated?

Noises are just about impossible to diagnose over the internet. That's likely why you haven't gotten any responses. So many posts on here about a vague "noise" and expect an answer. There is no way of knowing.

 

probably clutch fork shifted place and tb is to close to pp, id release pressure on the slave clutch and take out pin from clutch fork and see how much movement is in the fork, the tb can make lots of noises

 

first off THANK YOU for taking the time to reply I replaced the factory clutch 1 year ago new clutch has 10k miles on it after I hit the bump the very next time I used my clutch which was within seconds I noticed I lost pedal and when I push all the way to the floor the noise sounds like a skreetching noise like metal to metal I will add that I've never been happy with this clutch/flywheel kit it seems like the flywheel is not balenced and when in a drive thru line or at a stop you could hear the throw out rattling (these cars are notorius for loud throw out/ clutch fork link) I'll just drop the tranny literally takes longer to get car up on stands I think last time I had trans out in 1.5 hrs not as easy going back in last time I bought a cheap clutch kit this time its gonna be a South Bend clutch the flywheel alone is 500 but anyway thanks for your help I'm positive the problem is in the linkage from shifter to fork throw out bearing and all these guys on here I'll tell ya wut you can get a 350z into every gear accept reverse with no clutch at all 1st is tricky but can be done with no grinding wutsoever...and my fluid level is fine the fluid is amber colored but your right I should inspect the master and slave cylinders thanks again!!

 

No worries. When I changed my OEM clutch, I went with the JWT lightweight flywheel/clutch combo. At the same time, I installed stainless lines, replaced the slave with OEM, and replaced the master with either the Wilwood or Tilton upgraded model. I also changed out the pivot ball in the trans. I had overfilled the master reservoir after I first installed it and had difficulty getting it into gear, but that was an easy fix. I also changed out the master reservoir so it would be compatible with my Motiv power bleeder since the bleeding procedure on the Z is a little fickle (and I don't have any friends to activate the clutch while I'm underneath it, lol)

Some people don't like the increased chatter at idle/low rpms from a lightened flywheel over the OEM dual mass. I don't mind it. I also prefer the feel of it in daily driving while others hate it. Any lightweight flywheel is going to have the increased chatter/concrete mixer sound.

Southbend is a reputable brand so hopefully that sorts out the issue. I like the JWT combo and would recommend it in the event you haven't already ordered it.

Forgot to mention, you do need to adjust the push rod length if you change out the master, otherwise you'll have issues with shifting into gear.

 

 

I get that. I was hoping someone else would have had the same issue at some point I replaced the slave cylinder today and bled the system and it's exactly the same so this weekend I'll drop the transmission and find out what happened I'll be sure to come back and let the group know what exactly happened

 

First, ease up with the attitude, hotrod.

You wrote:
"when I push all the way to the floor the noise sounds like a skreetching noise like metal to metal"-

Did your Z bottom out? From the above description it sounds like T.O. bearing damage.

 

Check to see if the pivot ball snapped off. I did my clutch last year, didn't change the ball and it snapped just casually shifting into second gear at 10mph this year
You can see it by pulling the boot off

 

yes my z bottomed out I just pulled the transmission yesterday and here's what it was drum roll ........................the pressure plate is missing 2 fins it's broken

 

so upon further inspection I've concluded that the throw out bearing failed and caused the fins to break off pressure plate I've attached pictures of both 10k miles so something isn't right I will say I remember when I did the clutch last year the throw out bearing was giving me problems pressing on carrier so I used a hammer and the bearing was deformed slightly the guy on YouTube said it was fine to use a hammer I beg to differ​​​​​​​

 

lmaoooo, he got you good

 

well the throw out bearing i put on Saturday basically went right on but yeah I knew from the looks of it when I put it back together last year it would probably fail but I wanted to drive the car and didn't have access to another throw out bearing so I sent it and it lasted 10k miles