Exonize

So im nearing the end of my long swap project, replaced my blown 06 vq35de revup with a lower mileage one, went ahead and replaced the Clutch and flywheel with a jwt combo, and we got her running. Everything is operating fine except for the clutch. When depressed it sticks near the floor , but will come up with help, and it cant engage enough to beable to put the car into gear. Ive had to have the car off and start in 1st to get it moving, im not skilled enough to drive it rpm matching so i tried bleeding the lines today even with 100's of clutch depresses it wont come back on its own, maybe air is still in the system?. I got the slave and master clutch cylinders on order just incase and i had planned on replacing them anyways. Any other ideas gentlemen?

MicVelo

Obvious there’s air in the system.

Power bleed with a Motive pressure bleeder.

myGgoes

Bleed with the slave pressed in. See link below. Then adjust master cycle rod where it connects with yoke on clutch pedal. I took out the helper spring as well. Not to bleed. But to make more driveable.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Straight from TSB (bad grammar and all)...
CAUTION:
Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty.
Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water.

1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid.
2) Connect a transparent vinyl hose to the air bleeder.
3) Depress the clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold it.
4) With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder.
5) Close air bleeder.
6) Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds.
7) Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in the brake fluid.
8) Tighten air bleeder to the specified torque.

My own notes:
Bleeder valve is on the slave cylinder. No need to disconnect any lines during this process. Simply connect a brake bleeder hose/bottle to the bleeder nipple. The TSB process requires two people, one to pump and hold pedal while the other cracks and closes the bleeder. I would suggest repeating this process 12-16 times. Stop and check/fill the reservoir after repeating in groups of 5. When I did this with a buddy, I was shocked to see air bubbles even after I bled the system 1 year prior when I replaced the master, slave, and soft line. So being thorough is key here. You shouldn't need to adjust the clevis pin linkage (shaft bolt/nut) on the master cylinder/clutch pedal if you never touched it before. This is typically only required if you're replacing the master cylinder or going with an aftermarket clutch pedal like the RJM performance unit (highly recommended!).

Good Luck! Hope you get this resolved.
-Icer

The_Big_Cat

I had a similar issue when I went through my clutch change last year.

I happened to be stubborn at the time and went against buying a motive power bleeder.

Anywho, i went maybe 2 hours with my wife and I doing the pumping method to get the pedal to bleed. We had only enough luck to get the pedal to disengage the clutch at the very bottom of the pedal stroke (closest to firewall). The next day I went old school and gravity bled the line, by leaving the bleeder valve open with a bucket to catch fluid, and the master cylinder cap off. You just fill it it to the top, let gravity drip the fluid down and air rise to the top. I let it do that for about 3 hours. Surprisingly didn't use as much brake fluid as I thought it would, one quart. After that I did one more 2 person bleeding method. And then it was perfect.