Hey, just wanna get some setup's to run mid 12's, how many HP needed? thanx in advance.

 

Come one? no response? I can rice it out all day on a 1/4 mile calculator but want some real time slips, is this to much?

 

N/A? or Turbo? So far with bolt-ons you can only get to about 275-280. So install Ex/In/ECU/P/Pl/C/Pipes etc. Do all that, then add this stuff.

3.9 final drive
NISMO LSD
Wider, Stickier tires,
Lightweight Flywheel/Clutch
Traction Arms

Lastly and most importantly, be a top notch driver and you might just do it.

Or get a big bottle of N20 or FI. Much cheaper route.

 

count on a twin-turbo kit, fuel pump upgrades, a new ECU, and a lot of tuning, if you want decent reliability.

You should be able to hit mid to low 12s reliably with ~400 RWHP.

I'd say $10000 minimum, if you install everything yourself.

 

mid 12 require 340-375rwhp. any forced induction or nitrous.

 

Sell the Z, go buy a Mustang Cobra.... you can run 12's and 13's all day long

 

word....z is better in the curves

 

NOS and flywheel/clutch.

 

I agree with 2003z !! Figure out how you want to get to 350 rwhp and then add some traction.

 

i was running high 12's with a lot less then 300 to the rear wheels. a 75 shot and an intake should put you in the 12's with some practice. i had 12.8's in the 1/4 last summer with just those 2 mods on stock tires.

now im at 300rwhp with 75shot, crank pulley, intake, test pipes and mickey thompson 10.5 wide et streets. (i drive an auto which is the reason for the lower hp). but you really dont need 350+ hp to get into the 12's. i should be mid 12's this summer with the latest additions and only 300hp to the wheels and some better traction. ill find out in a week or so when i hit the track.

the thing thats nice about nitrous is the torque you get. even though im only at 300hp to the wheels, im at 380ft lbs of torque to the wheels. those slicks will come in handy for all that low end torque being made.

 

wat about fugitsubo titanium exhaust, HKS metal air filter and apexi SAFC II? thats wat i gonna run soon

 

The REASON............NITROUS POWER........nothing, i mean nothing gives you peak torque at 1,000rpm like nitrous does. That is why you are seeing high 12's with close to 300rwhp. F/I takes time to spool a little thus requiring more rwhp than nitrous to run the same times. TT or roots blower will give you slightly better ETs than a Centrifical unit at the same rwhp rating just because the boost and TORQUE arrives alot lower in the rpm band

 

I would "do it right" meaning yank the motor and rebuild it to turbo specs (compression, robust internals, etc.)... Once the motor is built properly, have it expertly tuned. If it's built right it should be able to handle about 20 PSI to the turbines. I would hope that this would put you in the mid 12's.

I know guys that run 12's all day long in their Mr2's and turbo 4wd Celicas with built motors and upgraded stock turbos and those are two liter 4 cylinders (3SGTE). If those guys are pulling 12's then then a stout VQ should be able to give you similar numbers.

This is just my take on it...


Have a great weekend everybody!

 

If your spraying N2O before 3000rpms your asking for trouble.

 

The only Nitrous I'm spraying now is on my VORTECH INTERCOOLER.......

I only sprayer under 2,000 rpm on the dyno, really cant puddle to bad with only a 65shot and full throttle.......LOL........

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by time4aspliff
[B]I would "do it right" meaning yank the motor and rebuild it to turbo specs (compression, robust internals, etc.)... Once the motor is built properly, have it expertly tuned. If it's built right it should be able to handle about 20 PSI to the turbines. I would hope that this would put you in the mid 12's.

If you lower your compression and strengthen engine internals, on 20psi you should run way better than a 12

 

umm probably in the 10's or low 11's at close to 125mph

 

Fluidz... that has to be the most annoying anime nissan chick in the world, I mean, your sig is driving me INSANE!

Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.

 

it is true that nitrous gives all that torque because it all hits right away ie no spooling etc. but you really are asking for trouble if you spray below 2k rpms. 2k would be the safe zone for our car because its a fairly short rpm range. if you spray below 2k then something will go wrong. also good luck with traction. if you spray at 3k or higher, then your not getting the full potential out of your n2o kit, specially since the rpms fly by with the z as it is.

having said that, i have yet to spray in 1st gear. tried it once on my stock tires, and the back end was just itching to roll out. couldnt stick to the ground for crap. the cheater slicks should help. should be able to spray in the higher rpm range of 1st gear instead of having to wait til 2nd gear.

 

Learn to drive with nitrous in first gear and you will be much faster in the qrt mile. I always used my Nitrous out of the hole with almost no tire spin. Feather the clutch, ride the clutch, do what ever you got to do but use it always.