I recently installed the kinetix resonated test pipes. Now when i start up my car when it is cold my idle is up at like 1200-1300RPM. As the car warms up the idle drops back down to 600-700RPM like it was before i installed the pipes.

What could be causing this?

My thoughts are either it is an exhaust leak or maybe bceause i didn't reset the ECU and i didn't disconnect the ground the car is running rich now. Any ideas??

thanks guys.

 

Try going to the Technosquare site and get the ecu reset instructions. Either way it will probably go back to normal within a few hundred miles.

How do you like those pipes?

 

All cars, OBD0 - OBD3 all have a idle up feature. When the engine temp is cold, the car has a high idle to help warm the motor up to operating temp. This is completely normal. An exhaust leak would have zero effect on this. The cats/pipes would have zero effect as well. Wait until wintertime, and see how how your idle jumps. My old Civic Si used to idle up to almost 2k on super cold days after the motor was built.

-damon

 

Yes completely normal for the car to idle up high on cold starts. Are you sure it wasnt doing this before the kinetix pipes? Mine idles around 1200 when cold, always has.

 

the only reason it is doing it because the computer wants to heat up the engine as fast as it can with out moving it and running any higher rpms...its running rich i beleive thats why the car sounds insane if you bring it anywhere near redline when its cold...i highly recommmend not doing that very often saying the oil isn't spread around the engine completely...

Ben

 

thanks guys for the responses.

Tfasano - The pipes are nice. Doesn't have the rasp that I'd associate with test pipes, but I've never actually heard test pipes. Either way it's not an annoying sound inside the car at all. As for power, my butt dyno isn't very accurate but I think my car feels faster.



I suppose it is just the warm up feature. I never noticed this before installing the pipes, but it's probably because i just never paid any attention.

I've had the pipes on for at least 500 miles already (just did 325 miles driving up to school) so the ECU should have adjusted the air/fuel already.

I'm glad to know this is normal! Thanks again.

 

The correct term is called "COLD LASH" its a feature that helps warm up the oil to operating temperature. The camshafts are actually inducing higher lift as well wich raises the rpm, but the throttle is still at idle. its funny. The VTC pulley enable it all and it is controlled by the ecu wich read out vital statistic of the engine constantly to make sure the lowest possible "cold lash rpm is instituted to war mup the engine to operating temperature at any given moment. Sorry about the dangling modifiers in my sentence.
This is becase non synthetic oil is very viscous at low (non operating ) temperatures and will not reach the piston/cylinder walls. Synthetic oil is designed to have a wider vicoscity band with respect to temperature but there are no guarratnees. no matter what oil it is anything is more vicous or lessdense when heated. Except for water hehe.

water is actually denser in liquid form than in ice form , that is why ice floats and thats why we have life on the planet,. in liquid for water undergoes hydrogen bongind which is an intermolecular force induced by the polar moment of the h2o molecule. oxygen is electronegative( likes negative electrons, thus it is said to be partially negative) and hydrogens is partially positive asa result and it forms vanderwalls reactions with the oxygens of other h20 molecules but in this case it is called hydrgen bonding because it is a little bit stonger , or more networked i think.

anyways i'm sure i went wrong on the vanderwaals bit correct me if i'm mistaken.

but nonetheless the rpms drop because it is azardous to keep them up for a long tim, so when the rpm;s have been high just long enough to kick start( catalyse ) the heating up precess of the oil (though energy of motion which transfers into heat energy) it can afford to lower the rpm and still establish the same positive delta change rate of oil temperature at a lower temperature,

once operating temperature has been reached the thermostat regulates the temperature by letting more water go through to the block(but i am just out on a whim here please correct me) and the thermostat also can regulate the warming process by not being as active in the cooling process whn the car is warming up, some thermostats will warm up the car faster, like racing therms, i think, and keepng mded engines that creat lots of heat at street level operating temperatures, by having the full release of water to cool the block earlier than a normal thermostat.

honda's have oil squrters at the bottom of the crank that get th oil higher to sustain high rpms and give better lubrication, and pauter rods have oil channels but these are still better when oil is viscous, but get syntheic oil it will protect you car while it sits and warms up.

some people have a theory that when the car is at idle, warming up the car is running rich and the fuel remains in the cylinder, unused, and what happens is that it undergoes a reaction and acidifies or becmomes a base or somehting( one just involoves dissociation of OH- and the other incolve sdissociation of H+) and this makes a caustic condensation on the cylinder walls eatin gthem away, but my response is that the car does not ild at low rpms where the car runs richly untill it has fully warmed up, then you will drive it so there is no acid reaction bussiness, waith tuntil your car warms up people. yeah!

 

Wow...

 

it's shivering to warm up, duh~