Anyone have experience with their clutch engage point move from top to the bottom? I say my engage point has moved from top 2" to bottom 2" so I pretty much have to depress the clutch all the way to 1" from the floor now. Before I could shift with clutch depress half way and my free distance is about the same like 1" from the top. I wounder if there is an adjustment for this?

 

I did this to adjust my engagement point. In my opinion, the clutch took to long to engage...my knee was practically hitting my chin(exaggerating of course...lol). but nontheless, I felt this car took too long to engage right from the beginning when the car was brand new. so I did this:

1- Loosen the locknut. Use some pliers or a punch to hold the fork(I used a punch), then take a 12mm wrench and break the locknut loose.
2- Push down slightly on the clutch pedal to release the tension on the rod.
3- Turn the rod clockwise. You'll notice that the rod is threading deeper INTO the fork.
4- Tighten the locknut.

I turned the actuator 3 times...but start off with 2 and see how you like it.

 

Oh by the way, I also had to adjust the cruise control. It also has a lock nut. Just disconnect the wire, loosen locknut, and turn the sensor.

 

hmm you had to adjust the cruise control? what do you mean, what was wrong?

my cruise control still works and i did it the way you said, i just loosed the lock nut and turned the rod.

other people have been tryign to do this by removing the fork from the whole assembly so its easier, but that way is a pain in the *** and its frustrating.

 

where is that picture taken from inside the engine or inside the car and is there anyway you could harm anything from doing this modification becaseu i also feel like its a good foot of travel if not more and all my friends cars move like 2 inches its insane thanks !!

 

move your steering wheel all the way up.

move your driver seat all the way back.

lay down in the foot well area and look at the clutch, its right there.

its somewhat hidden, look for it, its all the way against the fire wall. it helps being small and having small hands, but you should still be able to see the area of interest regardless.

hope this helps.

 

This is awesome. I've always felt from day one that the chutch should engage closer off the floor. This is the first car that I've had that engaged so far up...which I'd always associated with a worn clutch. I'll be doing this adjustment this weekend.

Thanks Urban.
|dg

 

sounds good so this just adjust engage ment point so it couldnt harm the clutch/tranny in anyway liek too much adjustment would put pressure on the clutch or anything

and do it cut down the travel of the clutch pedal or just the engagement point

sorry for all the questions but i hate my clutch that is the one thing i have alwayscomplained about so im excited to see if this works

 

as far as i know, there are no adverse affects from doing this mod.

check this link out, more info and replies...

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...umber=67472643

 

so with your method u dont have to remove the rod from the bracket jsut loosing the nut and turen to esire?

 

yeah no need to take the rod out from the fork, that way is a pain in the ***.

just use a 12mm box wrench, break the nut loose, push the clutch pedal in with your hand so the tension on the rod is lessened and then turn the rod by hand however many turns you want.

make sure you turn the rod further INTO the fork (clockwise) and not out of the fork =P

 

thanks alot im going to do this right now!!

 

My mechanic and I think that you are not really decreasing the catching point you are just removing dead travel at the top of the clutch throw.

I think there is a common misconception about this. The fact that the overall travel is reduced makes it seem like it is engaging sooner. Mine engaged at the exact same height when I adjusted it but there was less dead travel from the beginning of the push to where the clutch releases. Plus, when I adjusted it there was not enough spring force to pop the pedal all the way back up and often it got stuck before popping all the way up. And, I only adjusted it by 4 turns.

I think the only real way to deal with this is to get an aftermarket clutch but it is tough to figure out which one actually catches sooner.

 

i'm second with that.
the only thing being reduced is the dead travel, not the engagement point.
i did the same thing with my clutch 1 year ago.

 

I think the effect of this mod is just to give the clutch a "shorter throw" feel, which it accomplishes very well.

If your pedal is sticking that means you adjusted too much. It doesn't take much in turns to make a big difference in feel, try backing off little by little until it's smooth and all will be well. It took me a few times to get it just right, and the difference is night an day between stock setup which is pretty damn lousy.

 

Yeah, I only went 4 turns the first time, but it was still too much for my car. I am probably around 2 turns now and it is fine.

The question I have been trying very hard to figure out is if there is another clutch out there that will catch earlier and be totally streetable. It seems that this is a very ellusive question and there are many opinions about the different aftermarket clutches.

Do you think that changing the clutch master cylinder could achieve this goal with the stock clutch?

 

I've read on this forum that the street version of the tilton engages a little lower than stock, but you might want to check with Performance Nissan on that; and 1400 for a fw/clutch combo is pretty hefty