NISMO/KAAZ LSD Question
yep...typed too fast 
NISMO, as far as I am aware = Cusco MZ
Cusco RS adds springs to the clutch pack design, making for nice smooth engagement...one of the best mods we did to my car so far!

NISMO, as far as I am aware = Cusco MZ
Cusco RS adds springs to the clutch pack design, making for nice smooth engagement...one of the best mods we did to my car so far!
The RS sounds like a good unit. Does anyone know who makes the nismo?
Are you saying that the nismo is made by cusco (MZ) or is it just similar. Nissan has to outsource it to someone..
Are you saying that the nismo is made by cusco (MZ) or is it just similar. Nissan has to outsource it to someone..
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
install for the rear diff into an LSD equipped car should be around $200-$250 tops
Yes, from everything I have found so far, the NISMO diff = Cusco MZ.
install for the rear diff into an LSD equipped car should be around $200-$250 tops
Yes, from everything I have found so far, the NISMO diff = Cusco MZ.
You stated that the MZ is more 'hard core' compared to the spring loaded RS-what do you mean by this? Does the MZ tolerate more stress? What are the other differences?
Thanks.
After hearing people talk on the forums about clutch type lsd vs. gear type lsd i think the cusco rs is a good choice. since it doesnt come with all the components for install, can anyone list the parts that the cusco rs system would need and price ?
I keep a lot of different word files handy, here's the info he needs.
Those parts are(I'll list the retail price that you'd normally have to pay if purchased seperately, if you can get them for less then retail, all the better),
new stub axles $148 each, part numbers 38220-AR011 and 38220-AR010.
2 Oil Seals $6.50 each ment for a stock limited slip equipped diff part number 38342-P9010
2 Differential Bearing* assemblies $48.00 each, also ment for a limited slip equipped diff part number 38440-0C000
*Word is, you may be able to reuse your original bearings, but given the amount of metal shavings that can come out of a oem diff even with low mileage, might be a sensible investment, your call.
Those parts are(I'll list the retail price that you'd normally have to pay if purchased seperately, if you can get them for less then retail, all the better),
new stub axles $148 each, part numbers 38220-AR011 and 38220-AR010.
2 Oil Seals $6.50 each ment for a stock limited slip equipped diff part number 38342-P9010
2 Differential Bearing* assemblies $48.00 each, also ment for a limited slip equipped diff part number 38440-0C000
*Word is, you may be able to reuse your original bearings, but given the amount of metal shavings that can come out of a oem diff even with low mileage, might be a sensible investment, your call.
Sorry to dig this one up from the grave, but doing a little research...
It sounds like there's not much of a price diff between getting the Kaaz and buying the other parts and getting the Quaife that has everything you need... right? (Coming from a 350Z Base owner)
Now that the Quaife has been out for a while, opinions on Kaaz vs Quaife?
It sounds like there's not much of a price diff between getting the Kaaz and buying the other parts and getting the Quaife that has everything you need... right? (Coming from a 350Z Base owner)
Now that the Quaife has been out for a while, opinions on Kaaz vs Quaife?
Being around racing circles for the last 10 years, the general opinion is that in high horsepower, rear-wheel drive cars (above 300hp) Quaifes dont work well, they cause the car to go from understeer to oversteer and back again when your cornering. Also the cars were getting massive inside wheel spin. Dont get me wrong, Quaife makes a great product, just doesnt work well for a high HP rearwheel drive application, it was originally designed for Front Wheel Drive cars and works really well in those applications.
I did have to move anti-roll forward on the car and increase rear shock low speed compression and reduce low speed rebound. Quaife and Torsen diffs cannot have an inside rear wheel lift or the unit goes open. It also takes a different driving style with the driver having to trail brake to get the car rotating quicker so power can be applied sooner.
Unless a team and driver is willing to invest the development time to adapt the chassis to the diff, I can completely understand how they would feel a Quaife or a Torsen unit would suck. This kind of swap is not something to be done mid-season.
Originally Posted by bofa
So for street driving, you would suggest a clutch style? What about noise (for street driving)?
I switched out to a VLSD for daily driving. If I was going to do it again I would go Quaife hands down. Cheers.
So for street driving, you would suggest a clutch style? What about noise (for street driving)?
Alright.. so now I'm searching for VLSDs for sale (whole pumpkin)...
What the heck am I looking for? 3.3? 3.5? 3.9?
I have a 2006 M/T Base... current'y N/A with the possibility of going Supercharged depending on how this oil-burning issue plays out....
What the heck am I looking for? 3.3? 3.5? 3.9?
I have a 2006 M/T Base... current'y N/A with the possibility of going Supercharged depending on how this oil-burning issue plays out....
Originally Posted by bofa
Alright.. so now I'm searching for VLSDs for sale (whole pumpkin)...
What the heck am I looking for? 3.3? 3.5? 3.9?
I have a 2006 M/T Base... current'y N/A with the possibility of going Supercharged depending on how this oil-burning issue plays out....
What the heck am I looking for? 3.3? 3.5? 3.9?
I have a 2006 M/T Base... current'y N/A with the possibility of going Supercharged depending on how this oil-burning issue plays out....
Since you are NA, 3.3 would be too low IMO.
And you might go FI, so 3.9 would be too high, if you were for sure staying NA then it might be right for you - lots of dissusion about this here - do a search - again IMO. Although I think some with SC are running the 3.9, again, do a search.
3.5 would be just right.
I considered swapping to a 3.3 with my TT setup, but after reading the various experiences on here, decided to stay with the 3.5.
And you might go FI, so 3.9 would be too high, if you were for sure staying NA then it might be right for you - lots of dissusion about this here - do a search - again IMO. Although I think some with SC are running the 3.9, again, do a search.
3.5 would be just right.
I considered swapping to a 3.3 with my TT setup, but after reading the various experiences on here, decided to stay with the 3.5.
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