+1230101 thats what pushed me away from actually buying the kit....seemed to sketchy with nothing but vague details.

 

Okay, back on topic with this DIY. I did this mod backward by accident. I put the double stack on the button side and the single on the blue lever side. So, question #1 is what does the blue lever do when it touches? Cause I drove this for about a week this way and I am pretty sure the blue lever never got pressed. The next question is that once I realized it was backward I tried to switch it. Well, the adhesive fell off and I didn't have more with me tonight so I am going to try again tomorrow but looking at it, if I put the double on the lever side, then the button side isn't even going to get touched, let alone get pushed in. Am I reading something wrong? Or do I need to adjust the pedal some how? I bought the car used so I don't know if it was ever adjusted. Thanks!

 

Any one has a pic of the actual kit?

 

Now, exactly what are the benefits of doing this? Maybe I missed something but explanation would help. If I plan on spending my hard earned pennies on this thanks!!!

 

Hahahaha

Knowledge is worth money. If you dont want to purchase it then dont.

 

The blue "lever" isn't a lever; it's just the part of it that bumps against the clutch stop. If you reversed the intstall, your actual stop was the clutch interlock switch bottoming out. Reverse them and you should be fine; the switch is higher, so the arc of travel is less, thus the smaller stack should still depress the button. You'll know right away if it's pressing it if you can start the car. I highly suggest using the more accurate method I posted above, though, to make sure you get just the right amount of adjustment for YOUR car.

 

It makes your clutch engage right off the floor instead of halfway up the travel of the clutch arm. Faster, smoother, more precise shifting ensues.

 

I've also edited my post (#11) to add a safety check and add some thoughts after having driven the car a while with the mod.

 

i was previouslly going to do this with my stock setup but recently upgraded to a jim wolf clutch/flywheel setup and now the engagement is right at the bottom...one of the best upgrades ive done so far!

anyway what i wanted to ask is if anyone knows how to get rid of the couple inch gap of "play" and the top of the pedal? since the actual throw of my pedal was reduced from the jwt setup the gap i have up top is about the same throw/length as the actual clutch engagement. hope i didnt confuse anyone....

 

maybe put one of those rubber stops at the top to reduce how far up the clutch pedal comes up? i dont know if there's a place to put it, dont remember how everything looks. it would have to be the perfect thickness though..

 

thats what i was thinkin. there is another pin that is pushed in when the pedal lifts back up. im going to take a look and see...

 

there is no way to put a stop at the top of the peddle. Adjust the clevis rod to lower the freeplay at the top of the peddle, its the only way

 

how?

 

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ghlight=clevis
Do at your own risk, if you lower it too much, you will get excessive clutch wear

 

I made a few more of these last night for a few friends. Free bump for a nearly free way to make the "kit".

 

Make me one

 

why don't you use Delrin rod and cut to size? that would get rid of anyone being able to say this is a 'rigged' method.

stuff is cheap and if you made them for multiple people, the cost would be minimal for the amount of material needed.

http://www.professionalplastics.com/...G-10-FR-4-Rods

 

You very easily could, and feel free to post up step by step methods to do this, I guess the OP just wanted to keep it as simple as possible

 

this seems simpler to me actually. you buy rod. you measure and cut. attach some double sided tape and you are done.

oh wait, this sounds familiar....

 

superglued nickels work just a well