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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #41  
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changed plugs many a times. did one at a time, no mix ups there. everything is clipped tightly.

and im refering to a rough-ish idle. well not really rough, but it feels like a misfire as stated earlier
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by iamshadow
changed plugs many a times. did one at a time, no mix ups there. everything is clipped tightly.

and im refering to a rough-ish idle. well not really rough, but it feels like a misfire as stated earlier

idk sounds like what my car did when i changed my plugs and didnt have one of the clips in all the way...clipped it in and problem was solved..
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 02:48 PM
  #43  
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i just finished putting my iradium spark plugs, very easy to do. Not really a pain. You just have to remove some harness brackets to make some room for the coils to come out. Don't get discouraged

p.s. took me less than 1.5 hours
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #44  
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took me two days,,, sun got too hot,,, as hard as I tried I had the middle and rear plug on the left bank backwards, I paniced and called my son. he's a bmw tec. wow three mins he had it figured out. Can't beat a man at his own trade. But now I know why he dont wanna do **** on cars when he gets off work..
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #45  
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I just changed mine today car is a 05 at with 48k car had oil on threading and some on the plug.What does this mean?
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by johndoesdamage
I just changed mine today car is a 05 at with 48k car had oil on threading and some on the plug.What does this mean?
Its normal, just means you have a leak in valve cover.. You could replace it if you wanted to.. They are 200 bucks a pop though...

Last edited by Jay'Z; Sep 6, 2009 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #47  
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ok i have an 04 with 53k miles..im in the process of changing my spark plugs and rightnow when i took off the spark plugs from i believe its cylinder #4&#6 which is on the drivers side..the spark plugs were covered in oil..now i know this isnt good but i dont know how bad this can be??? can it just be the seals?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 05:25 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by White0ngold
ok i have an 04 with 53k miles..im in the process of changing my spark plugs and rightnow when i took off the spark plugs from i believe its cylinder #4 which is on the drivers side..the spark plugs were covered in oil..now i know this isnt good but i dont know how bad this can be??? can it just be the seals?
use the search theres a bunch of information on this, the seals cannot just be replaced, you must replace the valve covers i beleive, like i said search it...put new plugs in and deal with it, is that the first time the plugs ever been changed?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
What about orienting the spark plug so that it fires towards the exhaust valve is it? What is that procedure called? Adding shims of varying thickness to get it torqued down all facing a certain orientation...

Anyway, my question is where does one get the spark plug shims of varying thickness and how does one orient the spark plug (i.e. which way should it face)?
most likely you won't gain any hp or anything (i could be wronge)

but indexing is mostly used in engines that have such tight valve clearence and piston pop up that you would turn the plug away from the intake valves so they would not contact the plug when the valves are opening.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #50  
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just did mine... for no reason really... other than a desire to do it... and per your torque specs...

DAMN!!! 65-90ft.lbs on the bolt that holds the coil pack on??? i dont even torque my wheels to 90... so i went with 65 and still got to sheepish to torque that hard on a 10MM bolt. so i backed off of it... i'll be damned if i'm snapping a bolt.

20ft.lbs was good though, just enough where you can feel the crush washer was flushed out and then tightened properly... good job.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by LegionnaireZ
just did mine... for no reason really... other than a desire to do it... and per your torque specs...

DAMN!!! 65-90ft.lbs on the bolt that holds the coil pack on??? i dont even torque my wheels to 90... so i went with 65 and still got to sheepish to torque that hard on a 10MM bolt. so i backed off of it... i'll be damned if i'm snapping a bolt.

20ft.lbs was good though, just enough where you can feel the crush washer was flushed out and then tightened properly... good job.
Prob a typo, no way he meant 90ft, maybe 90in pds
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #52  
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Anthony, you read my directions wrong:

4.) Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
[no pic]

5.) Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb).
[no pic]


I triple checked that before creating this thread and I always refer back to this thread for torque settings when changing out plugs for the Zs.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #53  
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ahh... i sure did... lol.. thanks... i'll remember that next time... so far i think my arm torque meter worked ok for now...
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #54  
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how am I supposed to pull out the old spark plugs? my socket isnt magnetic. Do I need a magnetic one to pull them out once Ive already unscrewed them?
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #55  
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^
Did you read the first post?


3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01169.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01166.jpg
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #56  
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I changed my plugs the other day following this DIY. It is spot on, my only mess up was when I plugged the coil packs back and finished. I turned the car on and had a very rough idle and the SES light on. I went back to check my work and noticed that I switched the connectors to the two coil packs closest to the driver. I fixed it, but now i have the SES light on and it won't shut off even after the reset is performed. It shows a misfire but it runs perfectly since I switched the connectors back. Will the SES light go away on its own or do I need to go to the stealership and pay $100 for them to shut it off?
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by FastWhiteZ
I changed my plugs the other day following this DIY. It is spot on, my only mess up was when I plugged the coil packs back and finished. I turned the car on and had a very rough idle and the SES light on. I went back to check my work and noticed that I switched the connectors to the two coil packs closest to the driver. I fixed it, but now i have the SES light on and it won't shut off even after the reset is performed. It shows a misfire but it runs perfectly since I switched the connectors back. Will the SES light go away on its own or do I need to go to the stealership and pay $100 for them to shut it off?
disconnect the battery for over an hour
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #58  
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I did, over night and just came back. I went to discount autoparts and got the light shut off but it came back.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 05:35 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by FastWhiteZ
I did, over night and just came back. I went to discount autoparts and got the light shut off but it came back.
Than you still have a missfire.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 05:44 PM
  #60  
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I was hoping it wasn't since it was running great.
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