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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #81  
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^ dont be scared i just changed mine on friday, this one is super easy.

just take your time and you'll be fine. oh and make sure u have enough extender for your wrench, its a long way down there
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Nismomonkey
Easily the best description on this I have seen. Have to swap mine out soon but I'm still not looking forward to it. I'm tempted to pay someone to do it just to keep Murphy from ****ing with me again.
You said yourself that this is easily the best description (thanks, btw). It's really a no-brainer job if you can just follow the directions in my 1st post. Just make sure you have the correct tools and take your time.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #83  
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I'm going to go pick up the plugs later this week and take a shot at it.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #84  
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One thing I would add to anyone in need of more in depth DIY, that you left out is the removal of certain brackets that hold the main harness, more simply moving the harness enough to get each coil pack out and tools in.

Nothing u won't figure out tho
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 08:25 AM
  #85  
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picked up the spark plugs. Got some NGK Laser Platinums. I saw alot of guys recommend the copper but I'm in no rush to have to change them again so I went with whatever the recommendation was at the shop. Pray to the maintenance gods that Murphy isn't awake yet and all goes well.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Just finished my spark plugs. I removed the upper plenum and intake as well as all the vacuum lines and any other harness that got in the way. Only plug I had a problem with was passenger side center and it still only took maybe 5 extra minutes of my time. All in all quite easy and made my car go from driving like a Honda waiting on Vtech to kick in, to feeling like a barely controllable rocket on wheels. The difference was absolutely amazing. I'm quite certain that my old plugs were robbing me of at least 50% of the power.

Funny thing is last week I took it to the dealer to have them check it out for engine codes and stuff and go for a test drive with me. The guy I rode with swore he felt nothing wrong and that it was perfectly fine. He swore he had plenty of experience driving the cars and knew what they should feel like. I went back today looking for him and he wasn't there. I want to throw all 6 of my fouled plugs in his face and ask him to explain how he is a certified tech. All 6 plugs came out black as night and burnt all to hell. Needless to say this sealed my belief that the Nissan dealer is ****ing retarded.

Thanks for making this write up. I'm bookmarking this thing for future use. This was all the more satisfying knowing I did it myself and only spent $70 instead of the stealerships $400 charge.
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 08:39 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Nismomonkey
Just finished my spark plugs. I removed the upper plenum and intake as well as all the vacuum lines and any other harness that got in the way. Only plug I had a problem with was passenger side center and it still only took maybe 5 extra minutes of my time. All in all quite easy and made my car go from driving like a Honda waiting on Vtech to kick in, to feeling like a barely controllable rocket on wheels. The difference was absolutely amazing. I'm quite certain that my old plugs were robbing me of at least 50% of the power.

Funny thing is last week I took it to the dealer to have them check it out for engine codes and stuff and go for a test drive with me. The guy I rode with swore he felt nothing wrong and that it was perfectly fine. He swore he had plenty of experience driving the cars and knew what they should feel like. I went back today looking for him and he wasn't there. I want to throw all 6 of my fouled plugs in his face and ask him to explain how he is a certified tech. All 6 plugs came out black as night and burnt all to hell. Needless to say this sealed my belief that the Nissan dealer is ****ing retarded.

Thanks for making this write up. I'm bookmarking this thing for future use. This was all the more satisfying knowing I did it myself and only spent $70 instead of the stealerships $400 charge.
Good job! im going to buy the ngk double platinum 6240 are they the same as the ones u bought? The dealer said its the only ones i could buy but i had seen the iridium ones and asked them about it and he said my car did not call for those ones. i see lots of people on the thread installing the iridium ones though. which ones should i buy? and of course i would not buy them at dealer cause there more expensive, was he saying it so i could buy the most expensive ones or because it truely requires it.

Last edited by HEYROBI1001; Aug 21, 2011 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 11:37 PM
  #88  
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I just got the NGK Iridiums from Kragen/Autozone. Go to a store like that and ask what the stock ones are then ask for the ones made by NGK. They are like 9.99 a piece. You can also get them on Intensepower.com same thing. Alot of guys use the copper ones because they work a little better but they burn out faster and unless you are using your car as a race car for anything there isnt a real reason to do it.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #89  
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i just got my car tuned with UpRev Osiris. Car has Kinetix intake manifold (better than spacer IMO), pop charger, resonated test pipes, HKS true dual exhaust. The shop recommended me to run a 1 step colder plug. Can you guys recommend that plug for me? Can't seem to find a 1 step colder plug anywhere on line.

Thanks a lot!!
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #90  
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You don't need colder plugs. All you have is a N/A bolt-ons car.

If you, for some reason, decide you want to waste your money (and you have a DE), then..
-LFR6A-11 (copper)
-LFR6AIX-11 (iridium)


Also, the Kinetix plenum isn't better than a spacer.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
You don't need colder plugs. All you have is a N/A bolt-ons car.

If you, for some reason, decide you want to waste your money (and you have a DE), then..
-LFR6A-11 (copper)
-LFR6AIX-11 (iridium)


Also, the Kinetix plenum isn't better than a spacer.
+1, You don't have any serious mods to go with colder plugs and the kinetix plenum is not better then the spacer.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:52 PM
  #92  
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Anybody have a part number for stock range copper?

Edit: Found the part number LFR5A-11 for normal range copper plugs. Does anyone know if these come pre gapped?

Last edited by aaron.cobb3; Oct 6, 2011 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #93  
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^ Yes, that's what the -11 is. I would still check the gap and adjust as necessary. The tool costs like 99 cents.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:30 AM
  #94  
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Nice write up along w/pics. One suggestion since folks are having some issues w/the reconnection of coils - you can use a piece of duct tape/painters tape and mark each coil w/a number and tape it onto each coil. This would eliminate the confusion some folks have had when reinstalling each coil correctly.

I did this in my boat motor. Everything is so crammed up, I took a black sharpie and wrote on plug wire the sequential number where each one went to each cylinder. Makes it a lot easier when changing plugs - takes the guessing out of where each plug wire goes back.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #95  
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Thanks. I change them out one at a time. No marking, no confusion, no wasting time.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 02:37 AM
  #96  
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So.... I bought NGK Iridium Spark Plugs a couple years ago around the time when i first bought my car and had the "mod bug" going. I never got to changing the plugs till tonight (couple years later) with my buddy. Now here might be the problem!?!...i threw away everything at his house when finished so im not 100% on witch cold range plugs i had since i purchased them about 3 years ago, But i have a feeling that they where #7 range?(LFR7AIX). I see that you are recommending "regular range" for N/A's.?..
My car is N/A with some Bolt-ons.
Question is... Can there be a problem with this?....
The plugs are in now(as of tonight) and everything was put together,drove it too the gas station after to fuel up and came back home so far nothing seems wrong? yet haven't had much driving time to really notice something diff.
I hope its not a problem and dont have to buy new plugs and do it all over again.

Last edited by CircleHeartX; Feb 27, 2012 at 02:56 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 10:12 AM
  #97  
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No, using 1 or 2 step colder plugs than what the FSM recommends will not adversely affect anything, although you may lose very little power (negligible in reality).

Why did you buy colder plugs if you're N/A?
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #98  
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I dono man.. Like i mention i bought them over 3 years ago online when i had the mod bug going and was more of a noob I remember it saying It was for "Racing" or something like that on the description?LOL. I kno i was dumb...
Kinda bugs me to be be honest i did lots of research last night and all i found is that the plugs will probably foul with some time. and during the research i think i found the site i ordered them from http://www.importpartspro.com/ngkvqirsppl.html
Now i kinda want to buy the Recommended ones and pull those out, only thing is that im losing around $60, Dont think i can sell them?.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 11:50 PM
  #99  
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Ordered the standard ones(LFR5AIX-11) last night just for piece of mind.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #100  
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Just changed the ND Irridium plugs that come in the HR. It's not really necessary to remove the strut bar or upper intake plenum. Once you get the airboxes, TBs and assorted lines out of the way, you can reach all six sparkplugs with a little fiddling. Can't believe it'll be any different for the DE or Rev-up versions either.
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