DIY: Spark Plugs Change (HUGE Pics)
04-27-2012, 01:52 AM
#101
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Just changed the ND Irridium plugs that come in the HR. It's not really necessary to remove the strut bar or upper intake plenum. Once you get the airboxes, TBs and assorted lines out of the way, you can reach all six sparkplugs with a little fiddling. Can't believe it'll be any different for the DE or Rev-up versions either.
second time around tho i did remove the strut just made it a bit easier. But no its not "really" necessary.
08-02-2012, 08:11 AM
#103
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my car just turned 105k miles but I had my engine replaced under nissans warranty at about 55-60k. do you think they would've changed them with new ones or re-used the original ones?
08-22-2012, 05:12 AM
#104
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Hi guys! Thank you 3hree5ive0ero for an awesome write up! This inspired me to do my first job on my engine on my 03 350z. I've just had a crack at doing my spark plugs and just a few things I would like to check before I start her up.
Now, I have replaced all plugs with genuine parts, torqued to correct setting etc. But on the last bolt on the LHS (so US drivers side) furthest from the front I dropped the 10ml bolt that screw the coil to the car into the engine bay somewhere and for the life of me can't find it! I was wondering if I can start it without it so I can move it and hopefully make it drop out? Also the 'F' on that coil is up side down? Is that the way it was when I took it out? If anyone has any help or a photo of this bit of the engine that would be amazing! Also When I took that one out there was a fair bit of oil or fuel in where the spark plug was, is that a problem? If so can I just clean it out with a cloth?
Once again any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
-Trent
Now, I have replaced all plugs with genuine parts, torqued to correct setting etc. But on the last bolt on the LHS (so US drivers side) furthest from the front I dropped the 10ml bolt that screw the coil to the car into the engine bay somewhere and for the life of me can't find it! I was wondering if I can start it without it so I can move it and hopefully make it drop out? Also the 'F' on that coil is up side down? Is that the way it was when I took it out? If anyone has any help or a photo of this bit of the engine that would be amazing! Also When I took that one out there was a fair bit of oil or fuel in where the spark plug was, is that a problem? If so can I just clean it out with a cloth?
Once again any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
-Trent
08-22-2012, 12:07 PM
#105
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As long as it doesn't get pulled out, you can "move" it, but I wouldn't drive it.
I don't know about the upside down F but, if I recall correctly, the coil packs can only be installed in a certain orientation so I'd say you're fine.
Oil on the plugs is fairly common, so a little bit is ok. Those with excessive oil tend to remedy this by replacing the valve cover (or at least the seals).
I don't know about the upside down F but, if I recall correctly, the coil packs can only be installed in a certain orientation so I'd say you're fine.
Oil on the plugs is fairly common, so a little bit is ok. Those with excessive oil tend to remedy this by replacing the valve cover (or at least the seals).
08-22-2012, 12:54 PM
#106
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Thanks allot! I will have a look today and post how it goes! If I cant find it can I just use another screw the same size? I just want to make sure there not a specific metal to 'ground' the spark plug or something. Sorry about the noob questions. Just paranoid of blowing up my car.
Thanks
-Trent
Thanks
-Trent
Last edited by antix; 08-22-2012 at 12:58 PM.
08-22-2012, 04:16 PM
#107
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I doubt it's anything specific, but if you want OEM...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_743_744.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_743_744.html
09-09-2012, 03:12 AM
#108
3hree5ive0ero came over for an Spark Plug DIY and one thing I noticed that really helped me on the G35 was removing the intake tube and also unbolting the main harness so I had plenty of space to work with. I also marked all the wires with cylinder number incase they were not marked. I do not like flip flopping wires and #6 and #4 looked like you could have easily crossed wires.
Couple times after finishing up I had the spark plug socket get stuck. I should have picked up the quick release LOCKING extension. I just had to wait a minute and then try again but it was scary realizing the socket was stuck. A little bit of dielectric grease on the socket boot would have helped since it was brand new.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
Everything came out nicely and with taking 2 breaks and cleaning up my garage it took me about 2.5 hours to complete the task. If you are totally organized and have all the tools at hand this is an easy task. I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.
Edit: Being a G35 I had no strut bar to worry about and just the engine cover. This vehicle was slightly tougher then my Acura Vigor in college but nothing like what the dealership quoted me. I spent less than $40 on laser platinums including anti seize tube to last a life time from advance auto parts.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...s-on-sale.html
Couple times after finishing up I had the spark plug socket get stuck. I should have picked up the quick release LOCKING extension. I just had to wait a minute and then try again but it was scary realizing the socket was stuck. A little bit of dielectric grease on the socket boot would have helped since it was brand new.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
Everything came out nicely and with taking 2 breaks and cleaning up my garage it took me about 2.5 hours to complete the task. If you are totally organized and have all the tools at hand this is an easy task. I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.
Edit: Being a G35 I had no strut bar to worry about and just the engine cover. This vehicle was slightly tougher then my Acura Vigor in college but nothing like what the dealership quoted me. I spent less than $40 on laser platinums including anti seize tube to last a life time from advance auto parts.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...s-on-sale.html
Last edited by faiz23; 09-09-2012 at 05:03 AM.
09-09-2012, 11:22 AM
#109
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Couple times after finishing up I had the spark plug socket get stuck. I should have picked up the quick release LOCKING extension...
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
...
I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
...
I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.
Check out Step #3 picture. 
Also, I think all 3 of us take way too many breaks.
09-09-2012, 01:47 PM
#110
Registered User
Trick for everyday Joe
I don't post much here, but I wanted to change my spark plugs.
I have a 2005, touring, high mileage (second owner).
I won't be doing much to mine. I may lower it an inch, do something for intake, but that's down the road.
I read that somebody dropped a bolt somewhere in the engine compartment.
I haven't seen anybody post this trick.
Spot the offensive, hard-to-get-to, or dangerously positioned bolt.
Prep a socket..."white electrical tape" - other colors tend to be just as hard to find if dropped.
Tear off a reasonable length of tape, set "sticky side up" across socket opening.
Use a pair of needlenose pliers or screwdriver and push the tape into the socket.
Carefully push socket onto the bolt and finish rextracting the bolt.
Carefully retrieve bolt and set aside to re-install.
Hope this helps.
I have a 2005, touring, high mileage (second owner).
I won't be doing much to mine. I may lower it an inch, do something for intake, but that's down the road.
I read that somebody dropped a bolt somewhere in the engine compartment.
I haven't seen anybody post this trick.
Spot the offensive, hard-to-get-to, or dangerously positioned bolt.
Prep a socket..."white electrical tape" - other colors tend to be just as hard to find if dropped.
Tear off a reasonable length of tape, set "sticky side up" across socket opening.
Use a pair of needlenose pliers or screwdriver and push the tape into the socket.
Carefully push socket onto the bolt and finish rextracting the bolt.
Carefully retrieve bolt and set aside to re-install.
Hope this helps.
09-11-2012, 12:13 PM
#111
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^
Did you read the first post?
3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01169.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01166.jpg
Did you read the first post?
3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01169.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01166.jpg
02-01-2013, 03:19 PM
#115
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I figured since there wasn't a DIY for spark plug changes, I'd write one. It's not difficult at all, so nobody should have trouble.
level of difficulty:
1.25 out of 5 (5 being hardest)
approximate install time:
less than 45 min (longer if take optional steps)
tools:
ratchet with a long extension
10mm socket
5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket
torque wrench (both inches and feet would help)
Spark Plugs:
*Optional: If you do want to spend a little more time removing the plenum/intake duct to make the job easier, follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's installation guide.
http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
If you don't mind all the crap that's in the way of the spark plugs, then read on from here.
1.) First locate the coil packs. These will have a harness attached to them. Unhooking these harnesses make the job easier. Use the 10mm sockets to unbolt the bolt on the coilpacks. It helps if you have a long extension. Some of the coilpacks are hard to get to, as there are things in the way. These bracket-like things (gold in color) can also be removed with the same 10mm socket, if need be.
Here's an example of what the coilpack looks like.
Here's a picture where you can see the harness (gray plastic pieces the coilpack is hooked to).
2.) Remove the coil packs - you can just pull them out once the bolt is off.
[no pic]
3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a quick release long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
4.) Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
[no pic]
5.) Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb).
[no pic]
*If you removed the plenum and the intake duct, then follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's guide for re-installation.
level of difficulty:
1.25 out of 5 (5 being hardest)
approximate install time:
less than 45 min (longer if take optional steps)
tools:
ratchet with a long extension
10mm socket
5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket
torque wrench (both inches and feet would help)
Spark Plugs:
*Optional: If you do want to spend a little more time removing the plenum/intake duct to make the job easier, follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's installation guide.
http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
If you don't mind all the crap that's in the way of the spark plugs, then read on from here.
1.) First locate the coil packs. These will have a harness attached to them. Unhooking these harnesses make the job easier. Use the 10mm sockets to unbolt the bolt on the coilpacks. It helps if you have a long extension. Some of the coilpacks are hard to get to, as there are things in the way. These bracket-like things (gold in color) can also be removed with the same 10mm socket, if need be.
Here's an example of what the coilpack looks like.
Here's a picture where you can see the harness (gray plastic pieces the coilpack is hooked to).
2.) Remove the coil packs - you can just pull them out once the bolt is off.
[no pic]
3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a quick release long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
4.) Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
[no pic]
5.) Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb).
[no pic]
*If you removed the plenum and the intake duct, then follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's guide for re-installation.
03-23-2013, 12:22 PM
#118
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Thanks for this DIY, it was helpful.
For those without a torque wrench, you don't need it for the spark plugs. NGK plugs with a gasket can be turned until finger-tight, then 1/2-2/3 turn more with a socket wrench. This is written on all NGK spark plug boxes. If you have a Nissan OEM box it omits these instructions, but it still applies and they're still NGK plugs.
I just finished changing my plugs -- it's an easy job aside from all the stuff in the way. I didn't remove my intake tube, but I did disconnect it at the TB for some wiggle room. Overall, a PITA compared to the 10 minutes this job takes on an inline 4 motor.
For those without a torque wrench, you don't need it for the spark plugs. NGK plugs with a gasket can be turned until finger-tight, then 1/2-2/3 turn more with a socket wrench. This is written on all NGK spark plug boxes. If you have a Nissan OEM box it omits these instructions, but it still applies and they're still NGK plugs.
I just finished changing my plugs -- it's an easy job aside from all the stuff in the way. I didn't remove my intake tube, but I did disconnect it at the TB for some wiggle room. Overall, a PITA compared to the 10 minutes this job takes on an inline 4 motor.
10-11-2013, 08:00 PM
#120
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Hey, On the passenger side of the engine, right on the cylinder 1 there is a blue and black plugs attached to each other black one is connected to electrical harness, I can't take it off what's the trick of it?
