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DIY: Spark Plugs Change (HUGE Pics)

Old 08-22-2012, 05:12 AM
  #101  
antix
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Hi guys! Thank you 3hree5ive0ero for an awesome write up! This inspired me to do my first job on my engine on my 03 350z. I've just had a crack at doing my spark plugs and just a few things I would like to check before I start her up.
Now, I have replaced all plugs with genuine parts, torqued to correct setting etc. But on the last bolt on the LHS (so US drivers side) furthest from the front I dropped the 10ml bolt that screw the coil to the car into the engine bay somewhere and for the life of me can't find it! I was wondering if I can start it without it so I can move it and hopefully make it drop out? Also the 'F' on that coil is up side down? Is that the way it was when I took it out? If anyone has any help or a photo of this bit of the engine that would be amazing! Also When I took that one out there was a fair bit of oil or fuel in where the spark plug was, is that a problem? If so can I just clean it out with a cloth?
Once again any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
-Trent
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:07 PM
  #102  
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As long as it doesn't get pulled out, you can "move" it, but I wouldn't drive it.

I don't know about the upside down F but, if I recall correctly, the coil packs can only be installed in a certain orientation so I'd say you're fine.

Oil on the plugs is fairly common, so a little bit is ok. Those with excessive oil tend to remedy this by replacing the valve cover (or at least the seals).
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:54 PM
  #103  
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Thanks allot! I will have a look today and post how it goes! If I cant find it can I just use another screw the same size? I just want to make sure there not a specific metal to 'ground' the spark plug or something. Sorry about the noob questions. Just paranoid of blowing up my car.
Thanks
-Trent

Last edited by antix; 08-22-2012 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 08-22-2012, 04:16 PM
  #104  
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I doubt it's anything specific, but if you want OEM...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_743_744.html
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:12 AM
  #105  
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3hree5ive0ero came over for an Spark Plug DIY and one thing I noticed that really helped me on the G35 was removing the intake tube and also unbolting the main harness so I had plenty of space to work with. I also marked all the wires with cylinder number incase they were not marked. I do not like flip flopping wires and #6 and #4 looked like you could have easily crossed wires.

Couple times after finishing up I had the spark plug socket get stuck. I should have picked up the quick release LOCKING extension. I just had to wait a minute and then try again but it was scary realizing the socket was stuck. A little bit of dielectric grease on the socket boot would have helped since it was brand new.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL

Everything came out nicely and with taking 2 breaks and cleaning up my garage it took me about 2.5 hours to complete the task. If you are totally organized and have all the tools at hand this is an easy task. I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.


Edit: Being a G35 I had no strut bar to worry about and just the engine cover. This vehicle was slightly tougher then my Acura Vigor in college but nothing like what the dealership quoted me. I spent less than $40 on laser platinums including anti seize tube to last a life time from advance auto parts.

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...s-on-sale.html


Last edited by faiz23; 09-09-2012 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:22 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by faiz23 View Post
Couple times after finishing up I had the spark plug socket get stuck. I should have picked up the quick release LOCKING extension...

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL

...

I like taking my time and taking way too many breaks and both ACIDJake75 and Chris (3hree5ive0ero) can attest to that.
Yep, those are the ones you need. You should've paid attention to my DIY more. Check out Step #3 picture.

Also, I think all 3 of us take way too many breaks.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:47 PM
  #107  
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Default Trick for everyday Joe

I don't post much here, but I wanted to change my spark plugs.

I have a 2005, touring, high mileage (second owner).

I won't be doing much to mine. I may lower it an inch, do something for intake, but that's down the road.

I read that somebody dropped a bolt somewhere in the engine compartment.

I haven't seen anybody post this trick.

Spot the offensive, hard-to-get-to, or dangerously positioned bolt.



Prep a socket..."white electrical tape" - other colors tend to be just as hard to find if dropped.



Tear off a reasonable length of tape, set "sticky side up" across socket opening.



Use a pair of needlenose pliers or screwdriver and push the tape into the socket.



Carefully push socket onto the bolt and finish rextracting the bolt.



Carefully retrieve bolt and set aside to re-install.



Hope this helps.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:13 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero View Post
^
Did you read the first post?


3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01169.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...s/DSC01166.jpg
Can anybody confirmed whats the best/optimal spark plug socket for the Z. I could pick it up at a local shop like advance auto parts or order it from amazon. I see they sell a 5-piece socket specially if I wanted to do it on another car. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:20 PM
  #109  
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What do you mean best/optimal socket? You already quoted the sizes from my first post and that's what matters.
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:02 PM
  #110  
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Quick question, im in the middle of my sparks change, i dont have a torque wrench, how much elbow grease should i apply on those sparks???
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:21 PM
  #111  
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Enough to hold you over until you get a torque wrench.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:19 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero View Post
I figured since there wasn't a DIY for spark plug changes, I'd write one. It's not difficult at all, so nobody should have trouble.


level of difficulty:
1.25 out of 5 (5 being hardest)


approximate install time:
less than 45 min (longer if take optional steps)


tools:
ratchet with a long extension
10mm socket
5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket
torque wrench (both inches and feet would help)



Spark Plugs:

*Optional: If you do want to spend a little more time removing the plenum/intake duct to make the job easier, follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's installation guide.
http://motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf

If you don't mind all the crap that's in the way of the spark plugs, then read on from here.

1.) First locate the coil packs. These will have a harness attached to them. Unhooking these harnesses make the job easier. Use the 10mm sockets to unbolt the bolt on the coilpacks. It helps if you have a long extension. Some of the coilpacks are hard to get to, as there are things in the way. These bracket-like things (gold in color) can also be removed with the same 10mm socket, if need be.

Here's an example of what the coilpack looks like.


Here's a picture where you can see the harness (gray plastic pieces the coilpack is hooked to).


2.) Remove the coil packs - you can just pull them out once the bolt is off.
[no pic]

3.) Insert the spark plug socket (5/8" or 16mm) with a quick release long extension in the hole the coilpack was in. It should be removed with little effort.



4.) Install the new spark plug and torque it down to 15-21 ft-lb (180-252 in-lb).
[no pic]

5.) Install the coil pack and torque the bolts down to 64-95 in-lb (5.33-7.2 ft-lb).
[no pic]

*If you removed the plenum and the intake duct, then follow the directions as outlined in the Motordyne's guide for re-installation.
Just to clarify the torque dimension you mention means that you can torque it from any range between 180-252 in-lb??? There is no need for exact torque number??? So do you just pick any number between 180 and 252 and torque??? Just a bit confused since I think I have only seen a specific number for torque specifications. Thank you for your time.
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:32 PM
  #113  
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just did mine and it was cake... Just stay organized. Peace
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:58 PM
  #114  
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Yes, those are ranges per the service manual.

Glad you found this DIY useful.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:22 PM
  #115  
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Thanks for this DIY, it was helpful.

For those without a torque wrench, you don't need it for the spark plugs. NGK plugs with a gasket can be turned until finger-tight, then 1/2-2/3 turn more with a socket wrench. This is written on all NGK spark plug boxes. If you have a Nissan OEM box it omits these instructions, but it still applies and they're still NGK plugs.

I just finished changing my plugs -- it's an easy job aside from all the stuff in the way. I didn't remove my intake tube, but I did disconnect it at the TB for some wiggle room. Overall, a PITA compared to the 10 minutes this job takes on an inline 4 motor.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:28 PM
  #116  
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Did anyone see a MPG increase with doing their spark plugs? Im getting ~23.5 and im really hoping to get into the 25 MPG range.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:00 PM
  #117  
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Hey, On the passenger side of the engine, right on the cylinder 1 there is a blue and black plugs attached to each other black one is connected to electrical harness, I can't take it off what's the trick of it?
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:33 PM
  #118  
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I get to buy me new valve covers! Yay!

Great thread!
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:08 AM
  #119  
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Just read this thread and realized nobody has mentioned this, although it is not required, it is still a useful tip used on any vehicle;

When replacing spark plugs, get a piece of rubber hose that fits snug on the plugs.

It can be used to remove them from the head and not dropping them if you don't have a magnetic socket, but the main reason would be when threading them back in, as cross-threading a spark plug in an aluminum head is never a great thing!

Using the hose to get the first few threads in insures you're threading correctly as the hose will simply slip on the plug if there is some resistance from the threads not going in correctly.

Plus, it sometimes makes it easier to get them in place in tight areas, as dropping or knocking a plug hard enough on something may affect its gapping!

Hope this helps!
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:33 AM
  #120  
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Not a bad idea, but you should always use a tool designed for the job (i.e., spark plug socket shown in my original post), imo. It prevents the plugs from falling out. Plus, you want to hand thread it in initially and not jump right into threading your new plugs with a socket so no worries on cross threading.
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