DIY: Replace Valve Cover Gaskets - Page 5 - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion



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Old 04-13-2014, 11:43 AM   #81
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I used non-hardening form-a-gasket (hi-temp). That area cannot possibly get that hot, as the valve cover is plastic.

First, I had to soak up the oil pooling in the recess between the seal/valve cover and the metal plug tube. I used paper towel (but I bet you could use a vacuum, and speed up the process). Once it was no longer saturated, I ran paper towel folded in a point to start to dry it out, and at last pass used paper towel with some carb cleaner (which acted as a degreaser).

Then, I used my finger with the gasket maker and forced it into the recess, and once it would no longer take any more, lightly ran my finger around the seam to seal off the tube to the cover. Viola! No more oil leak!

I said this before, but let me reiterate: the design of this engine's valve covers (this is a French engine, from Renault IIRC - this according to Tony from Motordyne - something I did not know) is stupid. It would have been EASY for the spark plug tubes to be made just a bit LONGER so that the COIL PACK would seal to the tube DIRECTLY, negating the need for the valve cover seals to keep oil out of the spark plug well.
im a little confused by this, maybe i read it wrong. but basically you put permagasket in between the gasket and tube, smeared it around so it would seal up. am i correct? valve covers still on the car and everything?
im trying to imagine this without pictures or going outside, but basically its just putting some on your finger smeared it around around the underneath the gasket.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:59 PM   #82
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I have a slight leak, no smell, but some staining But will not know how bad it is until I pull the plenum off to do a Plenum spacer. It seems to me this gasket seal process makes perfect sense. You are cleaning up the tube/seal and then putting enough form-a-gasket to seal the tube and to then seal to the ignition coil. As it does not harden, when you insert the ignition coil, the whole thing should compress to seal. What is the downside except needing to be carefully when inserting the ignition coil? If someone does this, please take a few pictures.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:44 PM   #83
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I'm going to have to go in again to investigate. I'm getting the oil smell again, but it may be from other cylinders, as I only applied the permatex to the couple which got plugs wet with oil.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:22 AM   #84
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How do you obtain the copy of the manual you use to obtain the torque values for re-assembly?
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:22 PM   #85
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How do you obtain the copy of the manual you use to obtain the torque values for re-assembly?
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:31 AM   #86
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Does anyone happen to know the size and thread pitch of the valve cover bolts? Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:00 AM   #87
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hey i was wondering how did you guys get that bolt at the bottom firewall side of passenger valve cover? There is a bunch of things blocking it. I believe fuel line blocks it. do you have to disconnect any of that?
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:11 AM   #88
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Default BECK/ARNLEY Valve Covers with Gaskets

I need to replace both valve covers and Rockauto has the BECK/ARNLEY brand in stock with gaskets for less than OEM. Looking for feedback on this brand and if I should save a little on the cost over OEM. Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:14 AM   #89
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I need to replace both valve covers and Rockauto has the BECK/ARNLEY brand in stock with gaskets for less than OEM. Looking for feedback on this brand and if I should save a little on the cost over OEM. Thanks!
They are ok. However not sure why you are trying to save a couple bucks on a gasket. I got oem ones for 20 bucks. Not sure how much cheaper the advance ones would be.
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:45 AM   #90
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No not the gaskets - the valve covers.
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:05 PM   #91
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Saved so I can re-read... Im so excited, still dont know what they did with the gasket maker... Like they cleaned up the tube, finger banged it in their and called it good? Or tool the valve cover off and cleaned it all up and sealed around the plug tubes so you didn't need to purchase new covers?
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:06 PM   #92
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@heritage how is the permatex fix holding up? I have a leak in cyl 6 that is causing intermittent misfire and I am about to finger bang the hole with permatex even if it just buys me some time for a short while.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:49 AM   #93
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I would like to add to this project:

If your car has a lot of mileage, you're most likely going to have to replace the PVC breather hose that connects both valve covers because it has hardened. Cut if off with a Dremel or something similar, careful not to damage the nipples on both covers. The replacement is about $30 brand new. Do this before taking the covers off. I learned the hard way trying to pry off one cover while they were still connected. Now I am praying JB Weld Plastic Bonder will hold the nipple in place instead of buying a new driver-side cover. Time will tell, and I'll look for a junkyard/ebay cover in the meantime.

Also, if it's not stressed in the DIY portion of this post, I'll do it here for emphasis. I highly recommend disconnecting every clip or bracket that holds the wire harness in place. That includes a clip at the starter. You may have to come up through the bottom for this one. Releasing this clip will greatly increase the amount of room to work with as you wiggle the covers in and out.

Go ahead and just remove the spark plug distributor caps. It's super quick, and you can lay them out on a towel in the order they came out. It makes a world of a difference not having to focus on lining them up as you are putting the covers back on with limited space.

Lastly, the valve covers, lower plenum and upper plenum all have a specific tightening order and torque setting. It's in the FSM: here. If you are lazy, the order for each basically starts in the middle and works outward. I don't recommend not reading the torque settings since you can easily over tighten and that's a problem when working with aluminum.

Last edited by JMSpeed; 01-30-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:03 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSpeed View Post
I would like to add to this project:

If your car has a lot of mileage, you're most likely going to have to replace the PVC breather hose that connects both valve covers because it has hardened. Cut if off with a Dremel or something similar, careful not to damage the nipples on both covers. The replacement is about $30 brand new. Do this before taking the covers off. I learned the hard way trying to pry off one cover while they were still connected. Now I am praying JB Weld Plastic Bonder will hold the nipple in place instead of buying a new driver-side cover. Time will tell, and I'll look for a junkyard/ebay cover in the meantime.

Also, if it's not stressed in the DIY portion of this post, I'll do it here for emphasis. I highly recommend disconnecting every clip or bracket that holds the wire harness in place. That includes a clip at the starter. You may have to come up through the bottom for this one. Releasing this clip will greatly increase the amount of room to work with as you wiggle the covers in and out.

Go ahead and just remove the spark plug distributor caps. It's super quick, and you can lay them out on a towel in the order they came out. It makes a world of a difference not having to focus on lining them up as you are putting the covers back on with limited space.

Lastly, the valve covers, lower plenum and upper plenum all have a specific tightening order and torque setting. It's in the FSM: here. If you are lazy, the order for each basically starts in the middle and works outward. I don't recommend not reading the torque settings since you can easily over tighten and that's a problem when working with aluminum.
I have an extra set of valve covers laying around if your jb weld doesn't work... I actually have 2 sets in my basement and a set on my car... Pretty sure only cylinder 6 had a little oil on the coil when I removed it.
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:29 AM   #95
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I have an extra set of valve covers laying around if your jb weld doesn't work... I actually have 2 sets in my basement and a set on my car... Pretty sure only cylinder 6 had a little oil on the coil when I removed it.
Hey I appreciate it. So far so good on the jb weld though!

With a little oil on #6 and that being on the side I need, I may pass for the moment but we'll see.
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:33 PM   #96
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Default Dealership trying to overcharge

So they said cylinder two had an oil leak about a year and a half ago and recommended replacing both valve cover gaskets, valve cover itself, manifold gasket, throttle gasket, blow-by hose, and have 2-3 spark plugs and coils ready if other cylinders have leaks.

I have a feeling they're trying to replace more than I need to fix the issue. So I'm taking it to a local shop with 18 5 star reviews, and I'm gonna give them a list of everything I need done and replaced

Now, I need you guys to tell me what exactly will I need to replace, I have a feeling, I just need to replace the valve cover gaskets, manifold gasket, and possibly a couple plugs.

By the way, its to the point where Im smelling a burning fuel like smell, after driving it for a while.
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 PM   #97
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If you have oil on your coils when you pull them then the entire valve cover will need to be replaced or you will need to clean up the tube and finger some rtv into it...

All those manifold gaskets are metal and probably will be fine reusing.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:19 PM   #98
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well the dealer said they should be replaced anyway. What do you guys think about that?
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